Mark IV window channel installation

Hello,
I have acquired all of the correct materials to install the window channels for my Mark IV. I still have some question about the procedure.

  1. Is there any window weather strip on the inside, attached to the wood?
  2. I have clips that may be of use on the top of the window channel, but the vertical sides have more space…maybe 1/8 inch. Is there some other spacer in there?
  3. The internet says glue the window channel in, or attach it with countersunk screws.
    What is the consensus?
  4. How do you attach/glue the window to the window winder mechanism down below?
    Regards,
    Dennis

Here is what I have on the '38 SS.
There is a furry cloth strip on the inside attached to the wood.


On the sides there is round cloth inside and outside.



The round cloth is on the outside along the lower edge.

All mine seems to be attached with small screws.
One of my window lifters was rusted into swiss cheese and the knob was coming off the end of the track. I replaced it with one from a Mark V, with new 1/16" thick rubber sheet. It is just held in by friction, the steel channel squeezing the rubber and glass inside it. The Mark V has a longer track which works better.

I found a place in the UK that sells these lifter channels in a stock size, so you cut to the length you need, but I failed to make a note of the vendor’s name. It was a place that caters to the British car restoration hobby, not just Jaguars.

Dennis, you can try vintage suppliers - Paul Beck.
I attached the channel with small countersunk screws on the wood, but my MK IV is DHC so no vertical sides (=pliable chrome channel) or top (=soft top)
rgds
Polti

Thank you for your responses. I solved attaching the window to the lower channel by cleaning the existing rubber and spraying it with “spray adhesive”. I have a Mark IV that has original window channels and I find the new material is quite different. For example, the original has a 1/8 inch plywood spacer on both vertical sides, the channel on the piller is supported with a solid metal channel that is not flexible. The whole thing seems to be glued together, with the only screws being at the channel ends inside the door.

That leaves inginuity to attach the modern material. The countersunk screws seem like a good method to attach them. I tride to use slotted screws to stay period correct but could not find the slot, as the screw hid in the rubber. I am going to use philips hoping that it will not be seen. I did have one screw pull through, so I may try some glue in addition to the screws.

I will report the results.
Regards,
Dennis

Hello Rob,
After trying to get my window lifters to function I discovered that, like yours, they were rusted on the inside under the rubber. I am now searching for new channels. I have inquired at several places and so far heard of a standard channel #867 at Paul Becks vintage. Its seems to be off a millimeter or so on the lower part where the slider fits, and that part runs full length and needs to be trimmed. Also, there is no mention of a Mark V. Is this the part you purchased?

Any ideas would be appreciated,
Dennis

That’s it, Paul Beck universal window lift channel #867 at L12. Coventry Auto Components also carries it as #2382 at L38.
I’m sorry I didn’t make it clear that I used a channel that actually came from a Mark V.

Thanks for the reply. I ordered the channel and will resume this part of the project when they arrive.

I owned a Series 2 Land Rover a long time ago and remember having to change the window channels. They looked very similar to those in Rob’s photo of the vertical window channels. I believe they were called “Bailey Channels”?

Tim

Maybe they came from the Old Bailey?
I wouldn’t be surprised if all old British cars used the same parts. The old boy net.
Dennis, let us know how it goes. I’ve discovered I will need at least one more of those lift channels for the SS and I don’t have any more Mark V donors.

Hello Rob,
I did find a Mark V donor, but chose not to go that way because the donor channel is also 70 years old. Cordel Newby has a donor Mark IV and Mark V. Phone 509-662-7748
1625 N. Western
Wenatchee, Washington,98801-1107

Part Number Rumpole of the Bailey! :grin:

I often quote him when I want to get a rise out of my wife. He used to refer to his wife as, “She who must be obeyed!”

Tim

Thank you all for the information regarding window installation. The Paul Beck universal channel did work. After cutting it the proper shape, I pinched the lower slider opening a millimeter or two using large plyers.
Overall putting the windows in was a humbling experience, but I do have a few hints that may help someone in the future.

  1. I used number 4 screws for installing the window channel. The slotted screws disappeared in the black rubber and I could not index the screwdriver to tighten them. I used Philips screws and they do not show.
  2. The original material used 1/8 inch plywood as a spacer on both sides of each window. With the new channel material it needed to be thinner. I bought 3/32 inch 5 ply plywood at a hobby shop, to allow 1/16 inch more space.
    Regards to all,
    Dennis