Yeah, I was wondering why my engine gasket set had a bunch of different filter housing gaskets. This one is a perfect fit
Pat H
One hole we have not discussed is the 1/2" hole behind the filter adapter that leads directly to the center main bearing. All blocks have this hole, but in some blocks it is threaded and plugged with a 1/2"-20 UNF setscrew. Some filter mounts block it off by design, requiring no setscrew. Since filter housings obviously get moved around, the safest thing to do where that drilling is threaded, is to fit it with a setscrew. You can see that I did just that in the photo I posted waaaay above.
Thanks. There is no threaded hole in the block. From what I can determine, the oil filter housings on the MK 7,8 and 9 were all the same. My MK 9 came with an old 3.4 (incorrect) engine. I removed the filter from it and it bolts directly to the correct 3.8 engine that I had rebuilt. I’m trying to sort out what I have here. The 3.8 engine that I have came with an aluminum sump pan that has, what appears to be, an oil return fitting (see picture). I’m beginning to think that this is not the correct oil pan but I like the way it looks. Should I just fabricate a blanking plate to block the oil return fitting?
a MKX/420G has a oil pan and return line like that.
Possibly/probably other models to
Yes that shouldn’t be a problem.
Since you have a pan with the external return, a simple upgrade is to use a spin-on filter base from an XJ6, which can come with an external oil cooler or not. Easiest to use one without. To mount, simply make a blanking plate for the oil filter boss that has only two holes (plus the 4 mounting holes, of course). Just verify that the one you are blanking is the internal return to sump. The filter is off-the-shelf at any auto parts. I have this on my xk120, and it works fine.