Great Photos Roger McW - and I am sure you recognized my earlier photo of a 1950 USA Mark V to show that the Green Mat was not a local Australian modification
As I understand it the FLOCKING process is two part - first a sprayed on special green paint/glue - happy to take expert comment (Ed, where are you?), and second part is spray/blow on a green fibre (again, I think 100% cotton, not as modern synthetic alternatives which have a plasticky/shiny appearance, and various grades - again Ed where are you?..
Having said that photos I have show distinct evidence of the top part of the tool tray, and all the recesses and edges of recesses were first sprayed green paint, and in doing so, there was a greater or lesser degree of green overspray on the underside brackets and some blow back generally on undersideā¦ see photo of an original/untouched Mark V tool tray underside - an Australian carā¦, note the lid is in place, so Lamp and green Felt is also visibleā¦
Then the cotton Flock is sprayed/blown all over the top surface of the tool tray, including inside all the recesses and coverage on all the recess edges and top/side visible surfaces of the transverse brackets, but no deliberate effort for anything more on the underside oversprayā¦
I believe the āMutocelā (and after Robs pics of underside tunnel, rear seat etc, now agree thatās pretty solid identification ) Mat as affixed to the inner sheet metal of the boot lid was a separate exercise altogether, and indeed I agree it was black textured surface off the roll or sheet. But it was then painted Green, so maybe the same Green paint/glue as used for the Tool Tray and maybe also then fibre flockedā¦ see next photo that shows the ātextureā of the āMutocelā and indeed areas where the green paint has rubbed through by the tool tray brackets on top, revealing the original black surface, or maybe the tool tray was installed when the Green paint/glue was not fully dry/cured, and this is what we see transferred onto the underside of tool tray bracketā¦
And anther photo that shows the surface of the green painted Mutocel - is that fibre flock or just the surface of the Mutocel after adding paintā¦ ?..
That of course needs to be replicated in a true restoration.
I found many small mistakes in my DHC original (rotted) door frames. Only during assembly I realised they had been original small mistakes that I had repeated in the new (beech) frames!
Also with Rob we had previosly observed in our MKVās body colour paint dabs on the chaasis black parts like spare wheel well and some trunk components, because the paint (Domolac / Zofelac) had still been wet in the drips and runs you easily get around the screw holes of the hinges etc. during final assembly. It also tells us which parts were loose when the body was painted at the Foleshill plant.
Cheers!
Ps. I think Ed got fed up with the rows in the J-L Pub and other forums when the US had the latest political turmoil, and I believe he also very unfortunately has had some health related challenges. I wish him all the best.
Thanks Roger P and Pekka, it looks like that confirms that it was flocking on the mutocel, you can see the waffle bumps under the flock.
I wouldnāt have said it was green paint to get the flock to stick to the mutocel, I would have said clear or green stained glue, and a little bit got down the sides of the timbers, at least from what I can see on mine.
Looking at it, I get the impression of a rather careless piecework operation, high production assembly line work, not āye olde worlde craftsmanneā work. Like they sprayed on the glue, perhaps angling the gun so as to get around the sides of the slots, then put the tray in a big tub of flocking, shoveled it on, dumped off the excess, and moved the tray off to dry on a rack of 20 every day.
But green paint on the screw heads with a little paint brush seems to be well confirmed.
Iām beginning to suspect this is going to be one of those cases in Jaguar archaeology where the factory workers did things differently at different times, and with only a small number of unrestored examples to study, we are not going to get the whole picture.
Yup! And this also applies to the factory build sheets, as what was written and how depended on who was the clerk in that shift. Just like the WW2 diaries I had been reading from our open archives. Some handwriting is easy to read, others not so, and also how detailed it is or if a colour is called by the official name or just what describes it.
For my 1972 OTS #1S20183 it just said āWhiteā, not āOld English Whiteā, and for my ex 1966 2+2 #1E76372BW it said āDark greenā and not āOpalescent Dark Greenā which had lead the German PO (and thousands of restorers) to believe it would mean British Racing Green, nope! (and also for the XJ6C #2J50041DN it also just says āSilverā, not āSilver Greyā, āDaimler Silverā or some other metallic light grey that was used in the 1970ās.
Cheers!
PS. But I believe the green dab too, as it made the tool compartment look nicer and tidier and surely the apprentice who got to do the work wasnāt paid too much!
Ok, Iāll chime in. Iām new (about 5 years) in the MK V ownership. I have a ā49 2.5L right hand saloon. The sound deadening in the boot cover on my car is black. I know the car has been painted once in the past but there is no over spray on the material. Maybe they masked the area properly. It was hard as a rock as was the material in the doors and under the rear seat. When I tried to lift it, it would just crack and brake off in pieces. Needless to say, I scraped it off and am now wondering what to replace it with. Iāll be getting to that portion of the program once Iāve tried to instal the engine/tranny in a week or so.
I know Iāll get a lot of crap here but Iāve made a bell housing adaptor to mate a Volvo M41 Tranny with Laycock overdrive to the original engine. It comes out 3/4ā longer then original set up and Iām hoping to be able to make a rear mount that will accommodate the new set up so it would be able to be reversed if the next caretaker decides to go back to original.
Iāll post what my results are once this has been tried.
Things never seem to go as planned! The Volvo Tranny ended up with the splined shaft being about 2ā too short. The splines just touch the clutch plate opening. Iāve found a company that makes custom splined adapters. Of course itās Labor Day weekend and Iāll have to wait another day to find out if they can make an extension for my set up. Iāve been hoping to come up with a relatively easy and inexpensive way to give us an overdrive. The 2.5L engine just seemed to be overworked trying to go 65-70 mph.
Has anyone here tried the Ford T9 Tranny? Does it fit reasonably well?
