Measuring rear wheel camber

Steve,

You don’t seem to mention loading up the car to simulate the weight of a driver, passenger and fuel before settling the suspension. That is essential, or you will, of course, end up with the rear end much higher than the setting link distance. Getting the rear to settle properly will not be easy either. I imagine that this is why Jaguar specified a setting link.

-David

New rear springs set pretty high until settling in.

And not too easy – water cubes, anti-freeze bottles, bird seed, a pressure washer, etc with each item weighed before it went in.

Takes a lot of junk to equal one slightly rotund driver.

Obviously I set camber with the IRS in place and the car on the ground (no links).

If you advertise that as a barn find you will get a premium price😬

I never understand this comment, and I see it a LOT. Did new E-types sit too high at the dealership?

“Settling in” seems to be vendor-lingo for aftermarket parts that weren’t made to the right spec, but by some happy coincidence, their poor quality MIGHT make them more like the original after some use…you see the same phrase applied to poorly fitting door rubbers.

If a new coil spring settles that much in the first few weeks/months, it wasn’t a very good coil spring to begin with.

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Negative camber in the front produces oversteer, while negative camber in the rear produces more understeer.

If you are happy with how your car handled after dialing in some negative camber in the front, adding it to the rear might make it feel a little more “dead”. If it’s too tail happy, then more negative camber in the rear might be helpful.

For a street car, I would think a little negative camber in the front, and 0 camber in the rear would be a good starting point.

Yes the new rear springs made the back end site 1 inch to high. Putting some miles on settled the height to spec. I didn’t Find that unacceptable .
4 years later the height is constant.