2.5-3.5 degrees is good as long as both sides the same. Camber is the main issue with radials. They like negative camber. 1/2 degree negative is good on the XKE. The 6 cylinder XKE manuals were written for Bias Ply tires and usually specify positive camber.
Thanks Dick, I’ve got the caster at about 2.5 now. Think of increasing that. Am I correct in that changing caster won’t affect camber but will alter toe?
Castor should have minimal effect on toe on the XKE. Camber changes will effect toe a lot more. Always good to recheck toe after changing anything. The more castor, the more the car will want to go straight out of corners but the heavier the steering will become. Small trade off.
Well, while yours is coming down, mine is going up. Thus far, the EZCar Lift has been a charm. Can’t wait to test out the castors/roll-around option. Many (7) years in the making for this phase. I am jazzed, as so you should be, too, with the major works out of the way. In my case the chassis is mostly done, it was the engine that is the issue, but will be swapping out the BW auto for a 5 sp Broadsport box, to put behind the rebuild.
Good work and congratulations!
Huff 69 2+2
… which just proves the long known physical constant in the universe that any reasonably flat surface can be used as a storage unit.
I wrote a paper on countertops and it opened with something like “the first counter was an ancient grouping of stacked materials, creating a horizontal surface wider than it was high…” which could have been readily followed by…“which was then immediately completely occupied by stuff.”
Yeah, well, one has to make due with the space they have. After seeing a teeny garage while visiting Stratford Upon Avon (home of MG) as the B&B owner was interested in my E-Type he showed off his cherry 1969 MGBGT, purchased (very) locally) and to get it out of the little space (there was maybe 3 inches on either side of the car) he would yank on the bumper to do so. I have gobs more room than he does but he also has, probably, local shops that can do all his work (what little he needs- yeesh this thing was like new).
He was also so kind as to write me a “letter on introduction” to the local Coventry plant, where they still made, at the time, Jags, and it was like a door was opened for royalty. I was able to get in on a way-overbooked tour of the plant, with his help. Got to meet some folk that actually worked on my car, in the day, 40 years later.
I had a word with them.
Huff 69 2+2
Looks great Harvey! Can’t wait for that first start up video.
65 FHC in FL
Stop when you need glasses.
Countertops have been around a long time. This one from Skara Brae on the Orkney Island, Scotland. Dated, 3,000 years BC.
proof that it is possible to build stone walls that don’t fall down. At least it was 100 yrs or more ago
5000 years ago! SkaraBrae is older than the Pyramids.
“100 or more”
Curious, who supplied the interior?
I’ll put this up for Harvey.
Harvey has his own web page with some of his projects. The part on the ‘63 FHC is very useful. Here it is:
Speaking generally, I suggest castor is your friend – it translates cornering forces at the tires into meaningful torque (feel) at the steering wheel, it gives stability by making the tyre want to keep pointing in the direction of travel. It also has the less publicised benefit of turning into negative camber as you turn the steering tighter - more cornering force, no extra charge. So, the more the merrier up to the point it affects steering effort.
My E-type specific “thousands of miles away, never actually driven one” view is pretty similar – the nominal value is extremely low by any standard, and can reduce to (or below) zero under braking. Not desirable.
By one of those sad coincidences that arise when you do little but ponder such matters, I’m currently testing a range of lower control arm bushings and today started looking at their stiffness in the direction affecting castor. Results will be posted as available
Clive, Dick, thanks.
So, I adjust caster by rotating the shaft on the upper “A” arm. Refresh my memory to increase caster I want to move the “A” arm toward the rear of the car, correct? Does anyone know what one revolution of the shaft translates to in the amount of caster?
You’re welcome John, sorry I can only give general theoretical thoughts, no direct E-type practical experience. I estimate that moving the upper control arm rearward 1/4 inch should increase caster by 1.3 degrees; 3/8 inch for 2 degrees. You can translate that to turns via the thread pitch.
Thanks Clive. I’ve got the tools to measure toe, camber and caster. You’ve given me an idea of where I’m going with this. I think an 1/8" will be suitable, at least for a starting point.
I don’t know about turns but I do know that one turn will be a lot of grief if they haven’t been moved in years. When I refurbished mine I made sure they got anti seize ,silver to match the plating
maybe you’ll be lucky