Please let me know what you think about this starter. I am going to buy a new one under the assumption that the solenoid has failed after 10 years. I don’t want to get stranded. Eventually it would engage the engine but that takes many pushes on the starter button.
Gerard
Loveland, CO USA
Strip it down and see if the brushes are toast/worn out.
Almost certainly toast,
I went thru a long-winded exercise off swapping various used and rebuilt factory reduction starters on my Jeep Cherokee XJ’s.
The short story is they worked perfectly when removed and tested under no load, but failed completely when installed. I proved almost conclusively this was due to failure of the solenoid to pass full current…(they would work in situ if all 3 terminals bridged with ring spanner)
As above answer, they can be dismantled and brushes checked and replaced.
When I did this with one of my spares, which was “rebuilt”,
I found the rebuilder had used inferior brushes, and one of the brush retaining springs had snapped, rendering that faulty as well, swapped factory spring out of dud
did about 4 or 5 SM swaps and dismantles over that little episode
Good news is I had all needed spares, all going now, and a SM R&R on a lifted Jeep is a snack, not so much on stock height
Jaguar starters take two people and one of them as you noted has to lie across the top of the engine to hold the top bolt while the other mechanic turns the bolt through that wee little access hole. Those worthless three screws had minimal cuts in them for the screwdriver so I am going to replace them with hex headed metal screws.
I will also replace the battery cables as they may be internally corroded.
Gerard
Brush set (usually with holder plate) is a replacaeable part in every starter motor and it’s the first suspect here.
Yes Gerard the weak spot with these Nippon Denso’s are the copper contacts that the solenoid joins, are you aware that there are inexpensive kits available that are an easy fit.
Cleaning the contacts might effect a cure.
Peter B.
Who sells these kits as I will take a gander at rebuilding my old one for a standby unit.
Gerard
Gerard, key in “nippon denso starter soleniod repair kit”.
Amazon list some.
Peter B
Resurrecting an old thread here. My car has one of these and it’s been flawless for like 3 years. The car is usually in warm So Cal, but is now on the east coast and it’s COOOLLDDD. I’ve been having this issue. The starter clicks and clicks and clicks and then eventually turns the engine. Just started it doing it when the temp dropped. I wonder if it’s related to the cold or if total failure is impending. Has any rebuilt or repaired these or what do we recommend?
I know you are handy working on these cars but have you checked the basics that are often over looked. Take the car to a locals parts store for a cold cranking check of the battery, starter, alternator, etc. Remove and use a wire brush on all connections. DO you have a solid connection on the starter terminal, vibration can play havoc on that area. The starter could have freezing water disrupting the current.
Hopefully its simple as R&R is a hassle on starters. I wish there were an access panel in the transmission tunnel to make this easier. I believe my MK10 has an access tunnel. You could always make one if you feel comfortable with that task?
Let us know how it goes.
Gerard
Battery first…more than 4 years and climate switch it has to go
Next check all the connections
Now with terrible northeast damp weather corrosion is settling in
Good luck
Gtjoey1314
I always keep a “Battery Tender” unit on my car to avoid fluctuations. Batteries don’t seem to last as long as they used to?
Gerard
I don’t think it’s the battery, as one would expect the battery gets weaker the more you try to use it, yet the starter will eventually spin the engine, after many many tries. It also happened after a 2.5 hours drive on the highway, I let the car sit in the driveway to cool then had to start it up to drive into the garage, so the battery was fully charged. I can check the connectors again I suppose! I will also try it again when the engine is hot next time I drive it.
How old is the battery…
How old are the cables
How old is the starter
Time goes by
Start with the battery
Good luck
Gtjoey
All the ones I have seen do, but they are all '66 or later
not a whisper in the Service or Parts Manuals
Its only purpose in is to aid getting at the bolts on the starter motor, so it may not have been present in early cars
I removed a starter motor without knowing about it once, very difficult indeed
with respect to mini starters. They fail just like a Lucas, they work in the same way but with gears, so all the electrical contacts still burn up.
My autolec told me they also fail by breaking the alloy bodies, not an issue with Lucas
I have replaced a few geared starters, but they can also be overhauled with a kit
But it’s kicking in after cool off
I think a healthy battery and some clean connections go a long way
Trying to start my MK2 in 40 degree F weather today. High torque starter working ok for a bit here. Ran battery down yesterday so I put it on 20 Amp charge and then 40 'AMP while starting. Cranks for awhile and then clicks like a dead battery (not dead). Then after numerous pushes it cranks again.
I have a manual override switch for the aed and when I touch the wires above the aed I hear it clicking off and on. With my wife’s help I can sometimes get the aed in the right position. It click up and down and I am not sure which position is correct. I think I am in need of a aed rebuild.
Is this an easy task or other options you might have. I wold even consider a manual choke with a pull lever in the glove box or under the dash. My aed has been the culprit in numerous gas smells over the years.
Gerard
Loveland, CO USA
How old is the battery
40 amp chargers are melting the battery
Get a new battery
But before you start
How old is the battery
Ps the overide toggle works great!
But are you sure it wasn’t in the on position with the key on?
A lot of old men have this thing leaving the key on?
The draining the battery😍
Do you mean ASC (Auxilliary starting carb), the cylindrical item that is original to MK2
or the rectangular AED (Auto enrichment device)…normally on S2 XJ6
I will assume you mean ASC, take it apart, and check no defect, or scum, they are dead simple to inspect and test
whatever you do dont let the solenoid slug & spring fall into the the suspension
I have found several lost ones hiding, which would have been a real bitch for the PO,
as new parts are expensive
An AED rebuild is a whole nother story
Tony,
ASC
The round cylindrical unit.
Had a neighbor look and notice that my battery cut off switch on the negative terminal was sparking. I loosened and then tightened it and wiggled the ACD wires again. Engine started and the VOLT meter bent to 15 and slowly came back down. I had depleted a lot from that poor battery. It is two years old which I confirmed with the auto parts store. It had been warrantied once and they would not warranty it again. Gonna be $125 USD soon.
I will R&R the unit and replace the wires as they look tattered.
Went for a short drive to check the system out and warm up all fluids. Got in a race on the way home against a large pickup truck. Last I looked we were going 110 MPH. Which is probably only about 105 as I am running the wrong size tires. Tach was at almost 4000. I was highly focused on the road so looking as instruments was not high priority!! This was in OD and she still had about 15 more MPH to go.
Gerard
