It definitely is easier to öift the pistons from the front but as long as the lift pin is accessible, it does the same thing.
Does the engine speed up? Too rich.
Slow down and die? Too lean.
Stay the same or go up and settle down immediately? Just right.
Thanks Paul, I’ve had a quick look at that UT University Motors clip & that makes the task a little clearer.
Will let you know how I go.
PS I Updated my profile
Pierre
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Except that you can’t balance the air intake between the two carburettors.
BTW, you can buy a cheap stethoscope for under $10.00 (in a colour to match your car 
) on eBay then remove the diaphragm (metal bit that goes on the patient) and replacing it with 10" of suitably sized metal tube. This makes the task of listening to the air balance of the carburettors far more accurate and satisfying than using a balancing tool.
Guys, sorry been dragged away on other issues.
Haven’t got to the carbys yet to do those piston/mixture checks but I wanted to eliminate an electrical issue so we checked each lead with a timing light at idle and they seemed ok.
I decided to run the engine in the dark to see if that showed up anything. Removed the air cleaner & alloy plenum. At first glance nothing, but as I climbed over & moved the leads about I could see I small spark jumping from the middle of one lead across to the centre of the block.
Lights on & I found this tiny metal ring (see picture) around the lead. I’ve got no idea what it is, perhaps a piece of left over advertising/price label from a parts supplier?
Once this was removed the engine miss was reduced, but I’ll need to take the car on a run to see if it still plays up!
These leads are copper core, so does this jumping spark caused by the above indicate there is some breakdown with the lead insulation?
Will see how the road test goes then get back to the carbs fellas
cheers
Pierre
A note not been made; it is necessary to loosen the linkage between the two carbs when adjusting, such the carbs can be adjusted individually.
Remove air filter.
Remove plenum (two nuts)
Slacken pinch bolt of connecting spindle - from memory I use a 7 or 8mm socket.
Then adjust as per manual.
Thanks Tigger
Yes, your metal ring - particularly given its sectional width - compromised your air gap resistance meaning that the lead insulation became compromised. The spark has punctured the insulation. Removing the metal ring might be enough for you to “get away with it”. If you’re not planning to replace the leads and you continue to get arcing you might try a heat shrink sleeve over the affected area. Getting one with a suitable shrink ratio might be a problem - has to slide over the cap ends. See how you go. Debug the car with what you have but I see a set of HT leads in your future.
Comments noted Paul
thanks
Pierre