MK 5 - which Fuel Pump replacement

Hi All, my fuel pump has given up, there’s no ticking, but there’s fuel. Im looking at the best way to update or replace the existing pump. Looking on line it would appear AZX 1308 might be the best option.
Your thoughts?
Cheers Mark

Not sure where you live Mark but the manufacturer of the SU Pumps is in the UK. You could buy a new unit (I would suggest an ‘electronic’ one for reliability) or you could rebuild the one you have with a kit. Have a look at this webpage

http://sucarb.co.uk/carbspec/carburettor/pumps/id/1090/

Cheers,

Tim

Thanks Tim for your reply. I’m in Sydney Aust.
Looking at the alternatives, do I add AZX 1308 to the standard rectangular box which is part of orignal component for car or just hook up AZX1308 in its own right?
Or use repair kit EPk805?

Okay, that’s great as you have SU Midel in Lakemba. Just give them a call and they will give you great advice. https://www.sumidel.com Ask for Adam. They can sell you a new one or rebuild your pump. A new one is about $500.00AU so it might be worth considering a rebuild?

Cheers,
Tim (Melbourne)

Hi,

For me the Burlen kits that replace the condenser with a diode or a varistor have been 100% trouble free. Make sure you have correct polarity. (I had the varistor the wrong way first, only 5-7V to the coil of the pump solenoid)

Cheers!

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Welcome, Mark.
You definitely want the square body LCS version, i.e. Large Capacity Single, which is what the Mark V had originally. The small round body pumps may not be able to keep up with the engine consumption.
If that is what you already have, they are easy enough to rebuild with the kits. We can talk you through it. I have rebuilt about a dozen and converted them to electronic operation, and those still in my care have been trouble free ever since. Here is one of my first, done about 1995. The more modern electronic conversions are even simpler.


SU fuel pump 009

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Thanks Rob for your reply.
With your experience, could i retain the rectangle body box as the base and add the diaphragm body/points etc off AZX 1308 to the base? (Electronic)
AZX 1308 is available in Australia. Normally, you would rebuild, i agree, but due to a past bad experience(not a jag) …its a no.

I believe any SU pump coil body will fit with any SU pump base, but I’m not certain the stroke is the same on the short coil bodies as the long coils.
What is your bad past experience, couldn’t get the points to throw over?
We can talk you through that.

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Yes, why not adjust or replace the wear parts when it’s so simple and cheap!

If it just stopped clicking, that’s something that can be dealt with.

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Hi Rob,

I have a Facet electric pump fitted to my MKV. The car seems to run okay with it but I would like to fit an original ‘square-bodied’ version to it though I did nearly faint at the $549.00AU price. I wonder if the capacity of the Facet pump is sufficient? I’ll check the part / model number and see if I can find the flow rate.

Trusting that you are okay? :pray:t2:

Tim

An update on my Mk5 fuel pump. After toing and throwing with the different options, your feedback and availability of parts, I have ordered the repair kit. This is not my preferred option, as the pump could end up under a sledge hammer if I’m forced to keep removing and re-fitting, especially if it works on the bench.
I have also removed the petrol filter from petrol tank, unfortunately the tank was almost full. Not to self, remove filter when empty even if you have containers to capture petrol. (petrol level was beyond my control).
The filter was 100% clogged with tar, its done its job well! As Sydney is in Covid lockdown, and with 5 ltrs of metho on the shelf, ive poured some into a small container with the filter. I can now see the fine mesh and the contaminates are disolving.
Next step to make a rubber seal or a fibrous washer for the base of the filter.

Sorry Mark, but you did make me laugh. So many people have done the same thing. Also ‘note to self’ when you undo the pump pipe from the tank the same thing will happen though at less speed!

You can buy new tank filters as they are the same from MKIV’s to MK2’s.

SNG Barretts in the UK have them as do JagDaim in Melbourne. Part No. C990/1. Both companies also have new fibre washers. Part No. C1617.

2CC33C6D-6C9B-4716-BB50-CBE2BDB3E39F

Cheers,

Tim

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I posted a alternative fuel tank filter on the Saloon site last year.
It’s stainless steel and costs about £8.00 as opposed to £80 plus. Made by Baldwin Filters.
An o ring works ok on the brass bung in place of the red fiber washer.

Here is a lovely, and safe, installation of the pump on the MKV.

447C9762-48B7-4142-8ABE-9D282DCE8051_1_102_o

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Thanks for the thought, Tim. It’s been a year now. I look at photos to relive the good memories.

I apparently never took a picture of my Mark V fuel pump installed before I put the body on, so here it is from underneath.

Mark V SU LCS fuel pump

Coincidentally, last week I drained the tank in my XK120 prior to taking a 400 mile trip in it. I wanted to be sure there was no gunk buildup in the drain plug. It was down to about 3 gallons, so I removed the flex line at the carbs, rigged up an end fitting salvaged from an old flex line, with a long hose, and pumped it all through the pump to gas jugs. Very easy that way, but be sure to disconnect the coil first so it doesn’t get hot.

I then removed the drain plug and let it fall into a plastic tub. There was some rust. I poured a gallon through twice to wash out whatever was left. I used a new fiber washer from XKs Unlimited.

I went to the Mad Dogs and Englishmen car show at the Gilmore Car Museum near Kalamazoo. The car ran fine all the way and back.

The Gilmore Museum is very nice, all in old barns and buildings that look like 1930s car dealerships. They have a 1930s Shell station.

I had the oldest Jaguar there, except for a LHD Mark IV DHC inside the museum. It was well restored but had modern horns and an unknown brand fuel pump in the wrong place.


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Looks nice and neat, Tim. You have the rubber sleeve fitted. I have a few spare pumps sporting these sleeves but I have no idea of their purpose. Protect from stones and weather? Water underneath would invite corrosion. But the Bakelite cover is still exposed. Insulate the body? But from what? Someone will know the intent, advantages and disadvantages.

Peter

It’s actually not my car, Peter, just an image from the internet. I have a Facet pump mounted to the chassis at present which I don’t like. I would like to reinstall the correct pump in the original position but at $600.00 for all the parts it can wait. I wouldn’t mind finding a second hand pump and rebuilding it. That would have to be more cost effective.
Tim

Assuming the rubber sleeve is well made, tight, and in good condition, it would seal the joint between the Bakelite cap and the coil body. Perhaps this was their idea of solving the problem before the invention of plastic adhesive tape?
Now that I think about it, I have only seen it on cars that have the pump underneath on the chassis, the XKs and big Mark saloons.
I put one on my '38 SS just because I thought it ought to have one. It is too long for the short body coil, so I had to trim it down.


In the Mark V SPC Engine section pg9 it is called C.2839 Cover (Rubber) for Terminals, and on pg21 it says there were two for the first 121 saloons which had a different pump.
In the XK120 SPC it is in the Electrical section pg82 and is just called Cover for Petrol Pump.

Hi,

Your XK looks fantastic in front of that gas station. If only they would sell old school fuel! :smiley:

Weird colour for a MKIV, surely nothing even remotely like that was available from the factory, but nice car regardless.

Cheers!

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Apologies, fuel pump brain trust for not reporting sooner.
I’ve had a few issues removing the brass valve body which is housed in the aluminium body of the pump. I’m sure there’s a special tool to remove, but guilty as charged, I didn’t have one. Years of fuel contamination gum had bonded it tight. Lots of low temp heat, soaking in metho, screwdriver and hammer, (in lieu of the special tool) and it finally it broke free and wound out. Now cleaned and ready to be reassembled. I’ll post a few pics later. Both the filter from the tank and the one from within the aluminum body have cleaned up well, after soaking in metho and gentle persuasion with a toothbrush. I will reuse both.
PS don’t use screwdriver and hammer shock trick at home, you could break the alloy housing. My bad for the suggestion :frowning:

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