Hi all
I am new the forum and finding it very informative, I have purchased a 1948 MK IV in very good 90% restored condition, however it is missing its horn push with the controls for the dip switch and indicator switch, and it does not have a air cleaner on the carbs either, can anybody help me sourcing theses parts
thanks in anticipation
Mike
Hi Mike, welcome to the forums, once you have reached trust level 1 you will be able to list a wanted ad in the classifieds section of JL, currently you will not have access due to being new.
Just reply to a few posts and click on the 
icon to ‘like’ a post that should get you to the required level.
Hi Mike,
When seeking the aluminium air manifold, the 3.5 litre one won’t fit nor will the 2.5 litre from the 1936/37 cars. The 3.5 litre carbs have subtly different spacing and the 36/37 cars don’t have the chamfered corners necessary to clear the MkIV wings. Here’s the 36/37 manifold that you don’t want.
Compare with the 2.5 litre SS 1938/39 and MkIV that you do want.
Peter
Thanks very much for the info Pete, this type of information is invaluable when restoring cars
I am learning fast about these cars
Mike
Hullo Mike,
You mentioned you are missing the Manette control. This slides into the cable tube that goes down the column and through the steering box. Do you have that or is it missing too?
Welcome Mike.
There will be a part number cast into the air cleaner plenum.
The air filters look like coffee cans with a two-bolt flange on top.
Hello Mike,
I have two 1948 Mark IVs. Both are left hand drive because I am in the USA. They each have a large single canister that sits on top, as the steering column would be in the way of anything else.
There are many pictures of Mark IVs on the internet that may help you.
Regards,
Dennis
Good point, Dennis.
Mike, we’ll need to know whether your car is LHD or RHD. If LHD, the air cleaner will be like Mark V.
Mark V has an angle on the bottom rear corner. I don’t think this was needed on LHD Mark IV.
1 Like
Hi Peter
I am afraid that is missing too, sorry for the late reply
Any help would be appropriated
Regards
Mike
Thanks for this Rob
Is the number shown in the picture the number I need or an example, I am waiting for a parts book to arrive which may help me
Thanks
Mike
Thanks My car Is RHD
Mike
Hi Peter
Previous I said I did not have the tube inside the steering however on further inspection I have, is there some sort of conversion I can do ?
Mike
Hullo Mike,
The tube is just a conduit for the horn, lights and signal wiring and provides the lubricant sealing (gasket and felt O ring) for the bottom of the steering box. It has a special detail at the top to enable the manette tube to telescope in it to accommodate the steering wheel height adjustment. If you look at the end of the tube inside the column you will see the keyway.
Some important details. The wires are single insulated ie they are colour coded in pvc only, no additional cotton covering, and they are integral with the manette control. This is because the size of the id of the tube cannot accommodate the extra cable bundle thickness. The lengths of the wires are slightly different for the same reason so that the end thimbles are spaced apart and not doubling up inside the tube. The cables do not rotate but move up and down with wheel height adjustment. The cables at the bottom exit need to be extended out straight far enough to ensure there will not be any drag on the tube when the steering wheel is drawn up to full outward adjustment. This is where the insulation can be worn through. I’ve had no trouble installing the harness down the tube without a draw wire. I just straightened out all the kinks and wrapped the thimble end in a bit of tape to stiffen it. Like a finger in a glove. Job done. Have a coffee break.
Finding a complete manette control is not impossible but you may have to wait awhile and keep your eyes and ears on ‘alert’ setting.
I’ll send some photos of the various details.
Peter L
2 Likes
Quite right, Peter. My XK120 used to blow fuses on a left turn, and I traced it to the manette wiring. Where the stator tube inserts into the manette, there is a sharp edge, and it had worn through from decades of pulling the wheel in and out, and the left signal wire was grounding.
Here is my '38 manette.
Some one on the XK forum named Dave has some unknown manettes, you might try him.
Thanks for all the help, I am scouring the world for the manette, in the mean time I am rewiring the car with the dash out at the minute, if nothing turns up I am looking to see what I can convert or adapt for the steering wheel controls
Hopefully I will find one soon
I am about to post some more photos with questions in anticipation some of the great people on this forum can help yet again
Regards
Mike
Hullo Mike,
Here are some photos of the air cleaner canister. (They are actually an air silencer, not a filter. That rough gauze won’t stop much dust.) They seem to be poor survivors due to a number of weaknesses.
- They are very light gauge, easily dented.
- They can rust internally.
- The connecting studs on the top are held in place with a weak internal cage that is easily distorted, allowing the studs to turn. I’m attempting to fix these problems on mine.
I’ve included a shot of a 2.5 versus a 3.5 intake plenum for these canisters. The differences are subtle - only the size and position of the holes to match the different carburettors.
Thanks very much, I will be looking for some of these at the up coming auto jumble in Beulieu in September
The Air Silencers look very nice in 'Hammer-tone" grey but they should be Satin black.
You can buy the correct stickers from…
They have all sorts of fun stickers.
Tim
Have you found a suitable manette? I think I have found two complete ones in vgc which I think could be correct. They look identical to the ones I see in pictures with three round chrome control levers. I will take a photo of them when possible.
Br
