Hi again,
We ordered a U-shaped extrusion from one of the usuals that is supposed to cover the pinch weld at the door openings. The front one starts at the tip of the dash extension, up the A-pillar, across the cantrail and stops at the B-pillar. The back on starts at the B-pillar goes across the cantrail, around the back of the quarter window and stops at the chrome that traps it and the furflex/draft excluder.
The supplier sent a soft-rubber, U-shaped extrusion that would need to be glued to stay on the pinch weld. It has no strength to be able to hold itself. Our very-complete parts car seems to have more of a hard plastic edge-guard-style U-shaped extrusion in the same placeā¦ But itās hard to say for sure what the material was because over the many years all the rubber has hardened and changed.
Does anyone have an original car that can tell me what that U-shaped extrusion was from the factory?
Hereās a pic. This is a car from the internet not the one weāre working on, but the green arrow points to the pinch weld that is covered by the U-shaped extrusion. itās between the wood and the rubber seal.
āPinchweldā is a term for a flexible, rubber-coated metal extrusion that āpinchesā onto a thin flat edge, protecting both the edge and anyone who might come in contact with it.
What you are referring to as pinch welds are areas where 2 sheets of body panel are spot welded together.
The beauty of pinchweld extrusion is that it is tough as old boots, easy to fit and comes in a variety of colours and section sizes.
It is used extensively in small boats and can be bought from boating suppliers.
Maybe itās a regional thing but lots of folks (possibly incorrectly) refer to those seams that are spot welded together to form a sort of sharp edge as pinch welds. You find them on the area where an inner and outer sills or rocker panels come together. In fact they sell alot of āpinch weld padsā etc to fit over them for jacking purposes.
Anyway, what Iām after is what the factory originally used to cover this seam, not necessarily what suppliers now sell to do the job. Not a major thing but my friend, the owner of the car, is going to great lengths to keep it looking original so wanted to know what Jaguar did.
My trimmer found it difficult to find appropriate rubber, I believe it is asymmetric. He used standard small pinchweld rubbers and covered them with waterproof felt. I am quite happy with the result.
It worked fine for me. Of all the rubber pieces, it was the one that caused me the least problem. I donāt know what they are selling now if it is not the same as the photo.
Tony, Iāll try to get a pic of it today or tomorrow in itās natural state on the actual car
Interesting solution. I would guess since he covered it with felt the pinchweld rubber he could get didnāt look right uncoveredā¦ The alternatives to the rubber stuff we got from SNGB that I can get here are basically hard plastic, with or without a texture. Thatās about it so maybe the soft rubber is a better choiceā¦
Good to know Micah. I will look at the part no. you gave me earlier and make sure they match what we got
As mentioned we have a very complete and unmolested (except for rust and rot) '66 Mk10 parts car. I managed to get this off of it without it crumbling to dust so I though that Iād post a pic for future restorers. This is the cross section of the extrusion I was after. The āUā is definitely plastic and the blob on the side used to be the rubber seal.
I donāt think the rubber was originally attached like this - itās just fused to the plastic U over the years. Iāve seen that sort of blobby metamorphosis on old rubber before. Almost seems like cured glue after nearly 60 years.
