It seems to me that the torque converter would be trapped by the almost full circle bell housing. Unlike American cars which have only a half circle bell housing open at the bottom but maybe with a tin cover.
note…there are some annoying variations in the MKX-420G cooling hoses, I doubt any one kit will be totally correct for your car.
There is a pipe that has two ends different sizes that goes on the water pump
Right you are about that hose. The series xj6 hose is 90 degrees the wrong way, but you can cut off the top and bottom to use with the Mk10 metal pipe and it’s perfect. Progress today - cooling system back together and installed a used steering pump that I took off a 420G 20+ years ago. What a pack-rat! It works but the belt is stretched and squeals. Proves that the box is ok though. What I flushed out of the system looked like molten caramel. I was preparing fpr a drive, trying to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning in the meantime when I noticed the distributor was loose. Something wrong with the clamp bolt which won’t tighten, so a project for tomorrow when cool.
There was no leakage from the transmission on prolonged idling, but I didn’t get to run it in drive. Perhaps tomorrow I’ll finally get to go for a drive. Tony, I hope I don’t need the video!
Thanks to all.
Ron
I’m pleased to hear the Trans X treatment was successful, as I had anticipated it would be after its remarkable cure of of my Adwest steering box. Great news, you have now been spared from hours & $$$'s of having to pull the engine & transmission out of your car. Please keep us posted on the hose replacement and ultimate successful driving experience with the car,
Transmission treatment seems to be holding, but I’m unable to test it further at this point. After fixing multiple faults including leaking vacuum hoses, coolant leaks, poor oil pressure, loose distributor without vacuum advance, poor carburetor adjustment, faulty throttle linkage, failed power steering pump, corroded battery terminals I thought I was ready for a first test drive. I made it as far as the hill near my house, when the fuel filter totally packed up. When I drained the supposedly cleaned right tank, what came out looked like coffee with creamer. Although it ran fine in the shop, the extra gallon of fuel stirred up the mud. I was able to get a pretty crisp shift into second before the breakdown and the tow home! I’ll post separately for questions about parts for the tank restoration.
want any minor bits? where? jj
I might be, thank you. I’m in Olympia, WA. Perhaps you might PM me?
Ron
Ron,
I drained both tanks. I spent more time on the right tank, I ended up putting air to the tank, replaced the filter and removing one of the inline filters, freeing up he SU points, and put almost 20 gallons of clean gas through that tank until it came out to an acceptable level before recycling all that fuel and putting fresh stuff back in.
It was dirty but I got it fairly clean, sounds like it got stirred up more. Wonder if the left tank was activated and muddled the tank on right side back up.
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Well, it was a good try, but on removal both tanks are quite horrid inside. Not possible for the left tank to cross contaminate because the left fuel pump does not run and the left tank supply hose appears not to have been hooked up for some time. The tanks are actually pretty easy to remove, about 20 minutes each. Unless I find a better set, both tanks will require thorough cleaning, de-rusting, and coating internally before they can be in-service. In the meantime, I’ll put an outboard marine tank in the trunk, flush the lines, clean the carburetor float bowls, and hopefully at least get it mobilized.
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I’m sure you know the process for tank restoration. But I will comment on what I just recently did to my Mark X’s tanks with (in my opinion) great success nonetheless. YMMW. Minor pin holes on the bottom of one of the tanks addressed with JB Weld products (e.g. steel stick and fuel tank patch) after delicate sanding to expose all the flaws. Then thorough wash out with soapy water, let dry, tumble with some bbs, vacuum/blow out rust dust/flakes, vinegar/CLR/water soak, drain and rinse out, water/baking soda soak (to neutralize), drain and rinse out, then POR-15 fuel tank sealer. For a home job on a low budget, I was really happy how well they came out. Leak free and not a trace of rust/brown in gas coming out (I added a clear KN glass filter post tank just to keep an eye on things).
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Thanks for the suggestion. I think I’m going to try the method a couple of folks, including Jag Man have suggested. Cement mixer and gravel along with crystal Drano or muriatic acid. I’m ordering some POR 15 to be ready to coat when it’s clean. Doubt I will get to it for a couple weeks.
Today, I went through the rest of the fuel system and cleared abundant rust from the fuel pump through the float bowls, about 5 hours of work. To my somewhat experienced eye, the carbs have not been gone through in many years. I set up a marine tank in the trunk. Now with crystal clear gas and an in-line filter, the engine runs very well, and smoking is much reduced. 40lbs oil pressure on the road and 20 at idle. I have a question about throttle linkage that I will post separately. Here’s a video:
On a short drive, shifting of the transmission is pretty rough. Although I was under the impression it had already been done, I probably need to change the fluid.
Progress.
On the BW8, there is only one adjustment…at the rear of the engine is a knurled adjuster
Its pretty sensitive, and doesnt like people fooling with it
I made a trans pressure gauge, the plug is not where it says on the manual on some BW8, somewhere I have the TPI of the port I used, only cost about $5
I will ask a question I ask every BW8 owner…does yours “kickdown” ?
that is upon WOT, it will drop from 3rd to 2nd or 1st
(not just down change gears with reduced speed)
mine works as it should in every other way, but never has kickdown automatically
( last update, the BW guru told me I should next try a valve body change…I have valve bodies)
i had good success with small aircraft tank coasting inside yellow and cheap but smells like laqeur. not supposed to tolerate ethanol but never had trouble . did my friends and got the car back after twenty years and it still looks good even though he used the cheapist amerian gas probably 5 per cent. ready stripped to clean and cold cure epoxy suspect outside. cheap and easy fun. jj rent from rad shop and several heavy applications .jj better than teflon pro job ?
I had a look at your video, nice looking car, engine sounds ok
seems to have had a older re-spray (from the way it is peeling)
to tell, open the boot, and observe 2 covers on each lower corner, covering the locking mechanism. If you undo one screw and take these covers off, the original factory color will be evident
Tony,
Yes, it very obviously a respray when you are actually looking at the car - door jams covered, etc. I don’t have time to paint it anytime soon, but I will detail it and maybe ceramic coat the patina, drive it like that for awhile.
The BW8 did kickdown once on my short drive, but I’ll have to have more time on it to tell you much. Does the adjustment you talk about affect the shifting between gear ranges?
personnally i like to do mechanical first and the when painted just drive in sun and put it away to cure, i abit of a con to say modern paint self cures, much of mine shrank soon the incrementally over last 30 years around corners & etc . jj
yes, its adjusts transmission hydraulic pressure…shifts hard at higher pressure, and slurs if too low
do you have the FSM ?..you really need one for these cars
the Parts and Service manual on CD is only a few $
Parts Manual is vital
a BW8 does not like being low on fluid, I slightly overfill mine
I do have the fsm. I do not have the parts manual, but will get one. I do have a good set of transmission/oil pressure gauges, but I don’t have any idea what to check for on a BW8. I’ll dig into the manual when I have time.
John, In case you didn’t see my earlier pm, I am interested in a few bits.
sorry Ron , i seem to be having some communication difficulties. need new computer but so hard to figure how to go. you could phone me at 250 716 1570 and reverse any excess charges?