Hi Ian, there was probably one important thing I should have mentioned 
the brakes donāt lock up when the engine isnāt running, would that point to the servo or something else?
Hi Steve,
I will be most interested to hear how you go with the new aftermarket booster ā Barrattās quote 2 types on their website, C19613 for GBP 301.19 and C24707 for GBP 209.31 with the earlier number a less powerful boost than the later one which is much cheaper ā go figure!
The other weird thing is that they are saying they want the old unit for reconditioning which is hard to work out as they both look like brand new items.
Regards,
Ian Wilkins
1 Like
Just saw your latest post Steve ā certainly that is an indicator that with no engine vacuum the booster would not be activated so that suggests the problem is booster related.
Good point you make and I will take my car onto an empty car park, turn the engine off and see if the brakes are still locking.
Regards,
Ian Wilkins
1 Like
C24707 is for the S type. C19612E is for the Mk2. Iām not sure what the actual difference between these units is.
SNGB are offering a reconditioning service for your existing unit. It would not surprise me if when asked they will not be able to do this as the seals donāt seem to be availableā¦
What I bought was LR18230, a new Lockheed unit. It works well.
1 Like
Many thanks for the sage advice Andrew, just the guidance I was looking for among the usual minefield of application problems. I think the LR18230 looks suspiciously like the booster fitted to my car at the moment plus there is no suggestion of needing the old unit to recondition.
Regards,
Ian Wilkins
LOL! I do my best. Take it with a pinch of salt however 
Correction to my earlier post, I got my servo from David Manners, not SNG Barratt.
It is part number LE10117 and only cost a bit over Ā£100 - and they donāt need your old servo back.
As I said I would have preferred a bit more assistance but it works fine and cross-referencing the part number C19612 shows it to be the correct servo.
I had a little trouble mounting it but the old servo was mounted on a clearly home-made bracket so presumably a previous owner changed the servo and the one in the car when I got it was the wrong one.
Hi Ian, Iāve ended up buying the LR18230 from SNG Holland, 267euro +vat. Not looking forward to this awkward job but havenāt found a local mechanic, so no choice. Hopefully it will solve the problem. Iāll let you know how it goes. Thanks Steve
Hi Steve ā interesting that you are having problems with finding a local mechanic ā here in Melbourne, Australia we are quite well served with knowledgeable Jag mechanics but it is becoming harder as they are all super busy!
I have been thinking about what is involved in replacing the booster and it occurred to me that maybe the radiator needs to come out to enable enough access room.
Interested to find out how you go with the job and if there are any fitting issues given it is a non standard item.
Regards,
Ian Wilkins
Hi Ian, the annoying thing is Iād already removed it last year to see if there was anything obviously wrong with it. I didnāt remove the radiator so ill see if that will help.
Where Im living there are plenty of tractor mechanics but not many interested in working on old British cars.
Steve
On the MK2 itās mounted in a nacelle under the driverās side guard. You remove the 1/4" setscrews holding it in place, disconnect the lines and the bracket in the engine bay, and it comes out through the wheel well.
Access in the engine bay is, as always, a bit tight. You take the fluid reservoir out. Removing the top radiator hose would help too but you shouldnāt need to take the rad out.
I cheated and did all of this while I had the engine out.
You can also remove the vacuum canister from under the guard.
When I did mine I replaced the one way valve and all the vacuum hoses as well.
As above the mounting lugs are in a different position. I made up a couple of strips of 1" flat steel bar to fit to the new unit and just bolted them into the original holes in the nacelle.
You need to make sure that when you have it fitted the nose of the booster is in the right place to accept the bracket that holds it to the inner guard. Not hard but needs a little thought.
Hereās a pic of the original in situ.
This is the nacelle from under the guard.
Hi there, at the moment Iām struggling to work out where the brackets will go? Probably a stupid question but is the booster still bolted to the nacelle/shroud as the old one was? To fit that nacelle after the booster is attached would have been a lot easier but Iām no engineer. Do you have any pictures of the brackets you made? Cheers Steve
See the 3 studs on the bottom of each? They are in different positions.
What you need to do is make the new unit fit into the nacelle. From memory it wasnāt as simple as just drilling new holes.
What I did was use some bits of flat bar drilled to enable fitting the new unit in so that it was correctly orientated. I bolted one end to the nacelle and the other held the studs.
When I purchased our MK2, a previous owner had installed an aftermarket booster. The booster worked well but the installation was literally a āhack jobā. The installer hack sawed the inner fender and removable booster cover and bent the resulting tabs to create clearance for the vacuum fitting and hose.
When I restored the car, I bent the flanges back into position, welded and finished the metal. I rebuilt and installed an original Lockheed until and all has been well.
1 Like
That is indeed a mess. I didnāt need to do anything as extreme.
1 Like
Hi Ian, so far Iāve had no luck correctly positioning this servo. According to SNG chat itās just a matter of drilling new holes in the servo shield?. Rotating the servo is the only way I can see how it is going to avoid hitting the fan blades.
I havenāt quite given up on it yet and am still looking for info.
Regards Steve
Hi Steve,
I will see if I can take a couple of photos of my existing booster which I think is an LR18230 to show how it is mounted, it sure is tight in there and I suspect the radiator will need to come out to obtain proper access.
Regards,
Ian Wilkins
1 Like
No thatās incorrect. As i have said I had to make up the bits of 1" steel as one of the bolts ends up outside the nacelle.
This photo shows how you need to orient it. Note that Iāve had to make a spacer up to allow the nose of the cylinder to be held properly by the bracket.
Whatās important when positioning it is to get the metal pipe to the reaction valve to be clear of the radiator and if you look at the vacuum inlet on the front of the drum you can see it has a rotatable 90 degree fitting that lets you route the hose back to the vac reservoir under and outside of the booster.
Hereās another pic from a slightly different angle
1 Like
Hi Andrew, thanks for the reply.
Youāre correct, SNG NL have since told me that it requires brackets and a mod on the nacelle.
Besides the problems in fitting this part my original radiator fan blades look wider than yours so donāt clear the rubber hose on the side of the booster.
Iām getting to the point of replacing it with a C19612E from David Manners.
Regards
Yes, I donāt have the original steel fan fitted at all. Just the thermo fan you can see.
I only replaced my booster because I had the engine out and decided it was a good time to rebuild the whole brake system while I could get at it.
The original booster was working fine and the brakes were good with it.
Let us know how you get on.