MK2 Jaguar Engine change


(Ian) #1

Well thought I would start a new Topic , Engine change !! 26/3/18

Day 1
Remove number plate
Remove Battery
Radiator , hoses , Fan
Remove inlet to carbs and filter
Remove Dynamo and fan belt
Remove HT leads did cap
Remove washer bottle
Jack up car , remove front wheels
Drain Engine oil
Disconnect front brake hoses from callipers , hose in bottle to collect fluid
Disconnect lower steering column Remove Front Subframe
Disconnect a few wires
Noticed one of the sandwich mounts needs looking at , off side
Done enough for one day

If I missed something I will add it , not going to list every little detail , !

Spent a few more hours today 28/3
Removed Carbs
Oil filter
Distributer
Clutch pipe
Stat housing
Disconnected , wires and heater hose ,
Think that’s about it for this side of the engine !


(Phil.Dobson) #2

great progress. the project will now enter the … ‘growth phase’ or often referred to as ‘shipwrights disease’
still great fun. (gotta pay to play comes to mind)
Best regards and please keep the updates coming
Phil D


(Ian) #3

Will do Phil !

29/3
Few more hours today , after work
Removed prop shaft bolts from back of Gearbox
Remove Gearbox mounting
undo Speedo cable
Remove Exhaust and Manifolds , all the studs unscrewed from the Manifold , all but one , the nut unscrewed off that one
Tomorrow I plan on dropping the Engine out
Just the Engine mountings to remove and Unplug the wires to the overdrive
Remove centre consul , rubber gaiter , and Gear knob !


(Ian) #4

Friday 30/3
Remove front seats to remove Centre Consul , bit of a pain !
Remove home made Gear leaver Rubber gator housing (car was a Auto) remove gear stick
Disconnect wires to gearbox and earth strap
Remove Bonnet , with the help of the Engine crane , one man operation !
Remove back Engine mount locking nut
Lift engine off front mounts a bit , remove mounts
Place trolley jack under the back end of gearbox
Lover Engine , move engine forward , as far as it would go , move lifting chain back , move engine forward again , then fit lifting chain on to front of engine outside the car , roll engine all the way out ,
Remove gearbox
We lifted car so there was around 28 inches , floor to bumper
Gearbox come off easy , once we remembered , to remove the Cover plate that bolts on to the back of the bell housing !
Good job my dad pointed out the Spigot bush , in the end of the Crank , the engine I am fitting was a Auto , so there is not one fitted , could have easy overlooked fitting one !!
My dad is 82 !!

All the time added up , guess it taken around 10 hours to get the engine out .

Gearbox cleaned , coat of paint , overdrive filter cleaned , new oil !

New rear Engine mount rubbers and new lock nut !


(Ian) #5

Gearbox mounting all ready to go back in !


(Ian) #6

Cleaned up the Starter motor , checked the brushes , blow out with a air line , added a coat of paint , ready to fit
Changed the Clutch housing oil seal , pleased I did , as the old one was hard and brittle.
Plenty of grease on the new seal , placed the bag it come in , over the shaft and slid that up the shaft , then the seal off that, at the end ,
Replaced the nut on the pin for a nylock one


(Ian) #7

Few more hours today 7/4/18
Bolted lightweight Flywheel on , new locking tab , new Spigot bush
Home made Clutch aligning tool , Big end bearing bolt , with the head cut off , found a long nut of the right thread , pressed it into a length of 22mm copper pipe , in the Vice , screwed the cut off bolt into the nut !
Bolted pressure plate on
Found 3 long bolts same size as the bell housing bolts , cut the heads off , screwed in to block , lift Gearbox with Crain , located the Gearbox on to the 3 guides , pushed home Gearbox , went straight in
Test the Clutch , works ok , fitted Starter motor , Turned the Engine over a few times , all good so far
!!


(Phil.Dobson) #8

great well organised work. Interesting that you have stayed with a spring clutch. most swap to the later diaphragm type.


(Ian) #9

Thank you Phil , I was more then happy with the way the Clutch worked before , I did do a lot of thinking , weather to replace the Clutch , with a new one , on inspection all the main parts showed little wear , so decided to bolt it back on , as you can see in the picture , the rivets are well down in the plate !


(Scott) #10

Interesting, All synchro’s normally use a diaphragm clutch, I assume you are using a moss clutch fork to enable you to use a coil spring clutch? Great thread BTW.


(Ian) #11

Not 100% sure Scott , as I fitted the Gearbox on to the back of the Engine around 35 years ago !
I can vaguely remember having issues , I still have the Moss box with a Overdrive on the back of it in the shed , Will have a look , plus I do have another Fork , so will see what that is
The Moss box I have is a CR one , to think I got the Engine Gearbox and cards for £75 , , how times have changed , you have to pay over £300 just for smooth cam covers lol
Have found a picture of how the gearbox come out !


(peter balls) #12

There is no issue with the clutch fork Ian, but I would change the
hydrostatic slave to the earlier (shorter) type which is adjusted a 1/16"at
the pushrod.
Peter B.


(Phil.Dobson) #13

If it worked before then best left alone. A dear old friend of mine (now deceased). Used to swear that the spring type clutches were far stronger than the diaphragm ones. Personally i find the perceived ‘lighter pedal’ feel from the diaphragm ones to be over stated. Please do take posters advice on the slave though.please also install the correct return spring. (All bits available online from SNG)

Great progress.really enjoying the project.


(Ian) #14

Will keep that in mind Peter , but as it was working fine will keep as is at the moment !

Few jobs today 9/4
Brushed some wax oil in the Engine bay , I think the car must have had some wax under the bonnet from new , you can see it on the bulkhead !
Tided some wires up , added a rubber hose , where the fuel line passes the Chassis rail , as it was touching
De rusting the Fan
Engine mounts ready to go on , 1 is on the Engine .
Stripped all parts off Engine , ready for it to go back in , oil is draining out , guess I should paint the oil filter housing !
I was going to change the water pump pulley for a better one , less rust , but decided to clean the rust off the one I had fitted , you can see why in the pictures !
They look the same :sunglasses:


(Ian) #15


(Ian) #16

I did not like the standard return spring , so come up with a way I did like !


(Paul Wigton) #17

Aaaand…the 1-pound difference in the pulleys, will help engine performance…how?


(tony) #18

I bit the bullet and repainted those areas of the engine bay that are not accessible with the engine in place, behind the engine and the lower inner guards. Used 2pac solid urethane.

The rest can be done with the engine in place, at any time, it did take me quite a few extra hours extra, but glad I did


(Ian) #19

Not so much help performance , just help the water pump bearings , with the fan bolted on and the tension of the belt , it’s quite a bit for a small bearing !
I was hoping to use the Alloy one off the other Engine , but that’s a single V belt !


(Ian) #20

10/4
Change Drain bolt for tap
Fix new locking tab to Crankshaft bolt
Change breather and clean and oil the flame trap
Bolt on Clutch pipe , with new Braided hose ,
Remove XJ6 timing pointer `

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