Ian, did you change the pump impeller?
Peter B.
No Peter , I did ask the Q , but no one got back to me , I do have about 3 other water pumps , so when I get the time I will get a kit and rebuild one with the XJ6 impeller !
On saying that I may need to look into changing the front of the XJ6 water pump , to fit the MK2 pulley and fan , just have to keep my eye on the temp , last resort would be to fit a electrical water pump on the heater hose 
When i put a series 3 4.2 engine in a mk 2 I didn’t install the engine driven fan i just used a kenlow pushing from the outboard side. I just felt the clearance to the rad was too small.
I have an XKE Series1 4.2 in my Mk2, and just run a SPAL pusher, no mechanical fan. The pulley is uncomfortably close to the radiator.
Ian, I take it that you are aware of the larger dia of the later pump impeller, also the spindle dia @ 16mm against 1/2".
The early pump impeller might be OK in the larger pump aperture of
the later timing cover, so, as you state " suck it and see".
Peter B.
Peter , yes the XJ6 impeller is around 3 inch , MK2 is around 1/4 of a inch smaller , I did place the XJ6 pump on to a old Timing cover , the only place it touched was right at the bottom right as you look at it , on the later timing covers that is removed !
The Bigger impeller should move more water about , so may have another look !
Fan and Oil filter housing in Zinc Primer , top coat next week as it’s going to be in the 20’s in the UK 
Hope to get the Engine back in at the weekend , then start bolting things back on !
Still looking at the water pump !
14/4
Engine off stand on to the floor , using XJ6 Engine mounts
Bolt on painted Gearbox to Engine Brackets
Paint Fan and Oil filter housing , and bolt
Clean , check and paint Dynamo , not many miles on it , a friend who worked for Lucas rebuilt it for me ,
More or less ready to go back in now !
…pretty soon!!!
I think I’m more excited than you!
So close yet so far , had a play with a xj6 water pump , cut the front off the shaft , fitted a MK2 flange , flange is up tight to water pump housing , with the pulley on it’s sticking out around 10mm too much , there is a way around it , fit the pulley to the back of the flange , but once that is pressed on the shaft , it covers the bolt holes for the pump , as the MK2 impeller is just around 5mm smaller 2.5 mm a side , I am going to get the engine back in , and see how it runs , its not much 5 mm , but ask any woman , it makes all the difference lol 
great thread…one of our club members fitted an electric water pump, it must work work , as he races it, also has programmable ignition, coil-over-plugs, electric fan, extractors, tri-carbs, other mods, +300hp
I have booked my dad up , to help me Saturday to fit the Engine back in ,
I did read that circulation is not the main reason for damaged heads and blocks , it’s the rush of cold water on to hot parts when the stat opens !
On saying that , I do know there is a dead spot , in circulation at the back of the engine , by the drain tap , I took a tap out and there was a wall of Orange sludge
I run a Ford Ranger , I thought I had a stuck stat when I first got it , as the bottom hose was cold to just warm , but that is the norm on them , had 3 and all have been the same !
Then I had a BMW E34 , the expansion tank on that is stuck on the side of the rad with 0 rings , the full mark was around 5 inches below the top of the rad , I thought water finds it’s own level , that’s why you can use it as a level over distance in a hose pipe , yet in the E34 the water was at different leaves just a few mm apart !!
This look’s impressive , new for about £50 !
If and when I get my DKW 1000SP up and running, that may solve the issue of using the difficult-to-find-parts-for generator-driven water pump.
I think the Davies Craig EWP is what has been used in the cases I know off
fairly inexpensive
that silted-up area at the back of the engine is because its canted back slightly
Well I think I will be fitting a additional Electric water pump , have all the parts to do so now
I am going to remove the drain tap on the block , and fit a Hose tail pipe , that will go to a Jaguar S-type Heater water pump , then to the T , that will be in the heater pipe , by the heater box
Hi Ian – what are you expecting to gain with the electric pump? I think an interesting use would be to continue circulation after the engine is shut off. Not sure how long you could run this without affecting your battery…but would seem like a viable way to remove some heat to prevent heat soak.
Tom
Is this a solution, in search of a problem?
May be a problem , as the water pump is off a MK2 not a XJ6 , Impeller is around 5mm smaller !
I know sludge builds up at the back of the block , my thoughts are , add the electric pump on a manual switch , and use it now and again if needed , if not just to add circulation at the back of the block
XJ6 engine ran fine on test bed !!