MK2 Jaguar Engine change


(tony) #81

I bought a “locking” choke cable on Ebay (for my HS8s) ~$20

Twist one way and it will hold its position, twist other way, it is free (and the return springs drag on it)

Works perfectly, I lock it on 3/4" out to start, push in to 1/2" after 30 secs, its competely off after less than 3mins…without the lock feature, it would be unsatisfactory


(Ian) #82

I put all the trim back together , had 3 issues , before I put the dash back , I tried all the lights and switches , one signal light was not working , so changed the bulbs over , found to be the bulb not a wire , So looked on e-bay , some places want £4-5 a bulb , but found one place , 10 LLB281 12v 2w for £7.99 , on the door step the next morning !!
Same with the HT lead ends , £5 each !!! what ! , e-bay 10 for £3.90 , who buys bulbs and lead ends for £5 each , that’s what I want to know !!
Any way , then the overdrive switch did not work , cut a long story short , I got the wires the wrong way around , good tip , if you change the wires try and add new wire with the same colours , or make a diagram of what you have done , I did make a diagram , helped me a bit , but it was not a very good one , will post a pic later !
All lights and switches working , replace the steering cowl , screwed the bottom on , top would not fit !!
It was too close to the dash , hmm , so off with the under dash cover , just 3 screws , but have to undo the trip reset , and clock set , then there is the wires to the battery cut off , elec fan , elec pump , warning lights ,
Thought I may have left the alloy spacers out but no they was there , I see the mounting bracket on the steering column has elongated holes , so cracked the nuts , and pulled the column out a little , put every thing back cowl now firs as it should !
Today I plan on soldering the HT lead ends on , they are a crimp fit , but I like to add a little solder on the bottom !
Fit the distributor cap , that will be about it for today
Have a bike MOT at 11.30 and out tonight !
Pic come up on facebook , one year ago , must have had the engine a little longer , as it’s on the stand I made , and it’s in XJ6 form !


(Paul Wigton) #83

P6 Rovers all had that feature: quite handy.


(Ian) #84

13/5
Well I spent a long time on setting the timing , Engine on tdc , Rotor arm pointing in the right direction , marked the location on number 6 lead on the distributor , connect a test lamp to set the points , fittead cap , job done

Fit temp rad , top bottom hoses place 2 bolts In the pully to hold it on , not fitting fan at the moment , will wait for the other rad ,

Tighten up the fan belt , filled rad with just rain water , as it will be coming out in a few days fingers crossed .

Spent another 30 min or so making sure I had not missed anything lol

Had the Battery on charge all the time I was doing the jobs

Time to hit the start button !!!

Engine cranked over fine , but would not start , hmmm

Pulled a plug , it was dry , checked for a spark , nice big blue one !

Well you only need 2 things for a engine to work , fuel and a spark , as the plug was dry and I had a spark , I started to check the carbs , pulled a fuel feed off , fuel come out under pressure , so had fuel to the carb , there is no adjustment’s on the carbs only for the butterfly’s and choke stops , needles looked fine , all looked clean !

Checked the timing again , looked ok , hit the start button , once again just cranking , kind of trying to start but not quite there !

So undone the pinch bolt on the dis , and turned it a little , tried to start it again , did this a few times , and in the end the engine started , but was running uneven and had no throttle response ,

Took the cap off , and set engine at tdc , rota arm was pointing to number 2 more then number 6 !!

So walked away from it !!

After a cup of T and food , and a phone call to my dad , his thought was like mine , if you pulled a plug and it was dry fingers pointing to no fuel , then I told him , but it did start but ran uneven and no throttle response , we decided it was the timing , so we talked through it .

When I set the points , I turned the distributor in the same direction as the rotor arm turns , he told me no , turn it in the opposite direction !!

So once again I set the timing , this time when I set the points , with a test lamp , turned the dis clockwise till the light come on , dis was now in a completely different position !

Cap back on , hit the start button , Engine started first time , and revved , so turned it off .

Checked all the throttle linkage and butterfly’s , all ok and shut , then decided the engine was revving because of the fuel already in the cylinders .

Hit the start button again and it fired up first turn , running a bit uneven , tried this a few times , and it starts on the button , as the time was getting on , and being a Sunday I decided to call it a day

Today I will be starting it from cold , and hope to get it hot , so I can fine adjust everything , did buy my self a timing light so will give that a go !

It would have helped if the manual said turn distributor in the opposite way of travel , to set the points !


(Ian) #85

The End !!
Well for today :sunglasses:


(Robin O'Connor) #86

I assume the original engine was 2.4? Going by the 6000rpm red line?


(Ian) #87

Yes Robin , 240 Auto 1968 !


(Ian) #88

14/5
Well we got it running right in the end , had a few issues !!

With the help of my Dad , we set about starting from the beginning .

Set timing , 6 tdc , set points with test lamp , nip up pinch bolt

Start engine , fired up ok , but could not get the tick over down from 1500 !!

Had a close look , and the butterfly’s where not shutting as they should , there is quite a bit of drag on the throttle linkage , so we added another spring , that did the trick ,

Got the engine hot , then checked the timing , with a strobe timing light , I had to make a new tdc line , and 8 degree before tdc line on the 240 damper , as well as a new pointer , months back , fingers crossed they was right , and they was , nice straight still line 8 degrees before tdc , revved the engine and the line moved , so know the advance and retard is working !

Just need to take it for a test run now , after I have refitted the bonnet and number plate .

Jobs to do

Make new hole in the thermostat housing , stat bypass to connect to filler neck on rad

Fit Rad when I get it back , and add antifreeze

Look at number 1 HT lead , set come off the old engine , and a few sparkplugs are in different places , just don’t like the look of the bend in the lead .

Think about modifying the throttle linkage to HS8’s , see how it goes !

Make a bracket for the electric water pump , as only the hoses are holding it up !

Check rev counter , think it’s slower then engine to slow down

Check water temp , I know the gauge is ok , as that has gone up to 100 + , but all the time we had the engine running in the garage , gauge did not make 80 , no fan’s , just the electric pump , did put the elec fan on in the end , as was not 100% sure of the reading on the gauge !

Think that’s about it , not as straight forward as I thought , a few issues had to be overcome !

Ps , I went back to the original distributor , found a slight difference , on the XJ6 engine block , there is 2 plates the dis has to fit in , on the dis I got as it looked better , there was only room for the pinch bolt plate !!


(Tigger) #89

I’m not a fan of the card HT lead channel / organiser - all bunched up and right in the thick of the heat. I reverted to the type used on earlier XK’s.

.


(tony) #90

i like that arrangement too, and saw someone make a set from 2 aluminium blocks, clamped & drilled

presumably they are also offered by various Jag vendors?


(Tigger) #91

Usual vendors…at a price! If I recall, I got mine from a US supplier far cheaper (including delivery) than the UK usual suspects.

I’ll have a think and revert to you.

Great news on the start-up by the way.

JCC


(Tigger) #92

Found it:

http://www.coolcatcorp.com

Code: Wireorganizer
Price: $34.99

http://www.coolcatcorp.com/Merchant5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CEC&Product_Code=Wireorganizer&Category_Code=IC


(Paul Wigton) #93

Thrilling, innit, when it first fires?

Good onya!!


(Paul Breen pay palled it) #94

Well done. Seems nice and steady! Paul


(Ian) #95

Thanks Paul .

15/5

Started car up from cold , started first time , but there was still a issue with the throttle , was a bit like Turbo lag , had another look and there was still a bit of movement , the throttle linkage was not allowing the butterfly’s to shut 100% , so decided I needed to act on it now !
Looked at the carbs I took off , and see the bar that bolts between the carbs and holds a long bar , throttle linkage goes on one side and a spring on the other !
Looking at my HS8 carbs , only way to use it would be to re design the choke cable layout , and weld more on to it , as the carbs are set wider apart hmm .
Was there looking at it , then it come to me !!
Why not use a Y bracket that bolts on to the bottom of the carb mounting points , on the top !!

So that’s how it is now , butterfly’s snap shut , no lag !

Did a few other jobs , number plate back on , tidy up some wires , pic of the engine bay is more or less as it will be , rad will look the same , I will have to cut some off the top hose , as it is touching the body , 1/2 inch each side should do it .

Found a pic of the Engine when I see it for sale !


(William Hall) #96

I learnt many years ago to set the dwell first then use a timing light to set the timing.
As you set the contact gap it changes the timing.
You could see this on GM cars in the US when you used an allen wrench to adjust the points while the engine was running. With a timing light hooked up you could see the timing mark move as you adjusted the points.
If you have a worn distributor shaft it can allow the points gap to change while running, this also allows the timing to change.
Fitting electronic ignition to my Sprite vintage race car made life a lot easier.

Bill


(Ian) #97

Well , my Dad and I spent about a hour on the carbs , got the engine running sweet , time to take it on the road , first trip to the petrol station , about 1/2 a mile away , Gauge was showing well under 1/4 , soon as I drove it out the drive I knew it was not right , mixture was wrong , put choke on improved things a bit , filled up with 95 ron and limped back home !
Took a screwdriver to the mixture screws 1/4 of a turn on each , in all down 1 3/4 turns , time for another road test !
Oh and the brakes where spongy ,
This time it pulled like a train in every gear , did not go far in distance but a good few miles around the local roads
A good 50lb oil pressure , temp just around 75 , it was a hot day , pulled over to the side of the road and sat there with the engine running , after around 5 mins temp was just under 78 , so put the electrical water pump on and fan , then set off again , after around 1 1/2 miles temp was back down to 75 .

Had a ticking sound come and go !

Back home had a good look around , all looked good , jacked the front wheels up , and found a stone , on the inside edge of the tyre , so that was a easy fix
Today I blead the brakes .
Up rated Radiator will be ready next week , the rad in the car was in the car when I got it , some 40 years back , looks like the original one , not used in 40 years , but holds water well , only has a 4lb cap on it too !!

Will do another write up when the new rad is in , and after a longer road trip !


(Paul Wigton) #98

EDIS: BEST SINGLE modification done to my Jag…utterly transformed the car!!


(Ian) #99

2/6
Fittead up-rated Radiator , with all new rubbers , had to make a new bypass hose outlet , on the end of the stat housing , found some 6mm brass tube , just a case of drilling a 5mm hole , then take it down bit by bit with a round file , till the tube was a nice interference fit , then pressed the tube home in a vice !
Had to paint the rad top shield , that the loom sits on , hope to finish that off tomorrow , and add a water catch tank , from the filler neck .
Found some old pancake air filters , had them on 1 3/4 SU cards , had a look and just managed to make them fit the HS8’s , lots of holes and it don’t look very pretty , but as you can see once they are bolted on , the 4 main holes are good , and the old holes will be covered
New foam filter sheet was cut to size , hope to fit them tomorrow too , after taking the car for a run , then checking the butterfly’s for balance .


(Ian) #100

8/6
Well I think the Engine change is 100% finished now , fittead the Pancake Air filters , I think I have done a fair job , making the XJ6 engine look like a 340 engine , with HS8 carbs being bolted on , it was quite a straight foreword job , with a few issues along the way , having lot’s of 240 Engine parts helped , all the big parts where just bolt on jobs , drive to the Tacho being the more complicated job , off the Camshaft !
Hope my project has proved useful to others , and don’t hesitate to drop me a message if you need to know anything !