Mk2 Jaguar mods for track days ideas wanted

I am part way through restoring my RHD (1968 240 MOD) Mk2 Jaguar for road use but also thinking about track days before I get too old, already too fat!

I have a thread running on a welding forum, up to page 10 so far,

Mk2 3.4 MOD Jaguar restoration | MIG Welding Forum (mig-welding.co.uk)

I am a retired garage owner who specialised in classic BMW cars, breaking, repairing, modifying, auto to manual, carb to injection etc. so not my first rodeo BUT I would like advice from those who know about sensible fast road slow track use for a Mk2,

This is an “economy” restoration, not a no expense spared job! looking for a basically stock appearance.

Work in progress includes four piston front callipers (Zeus) vented front discs (Mitsubishi GTO rears), socal stainless front brake pistons on the rear, braided hoses,
GAZ adjustable shocks,
The 240 engine is being replaced by a std. 1985 XJ6 3.4 engine with H8? carbs, o.e. electronic ign. but with smooth cam covers and stock air filter fitted, the flat round one,
The all synchro gearbox will go back in with just new seals, I am the second owner and 80,000 from new!
4HA powerlock from a 3.8 has been gone through and fitted,

I have a set of 6J15 wires from a V12 E type (20mm inset) not 100% sure they will fit but if they do I need to think about tyres, 205 65 15? 195 70 15? 215 65 15?

Items I am still mulling over…
3.8 clutch 9 1/2"?
Brake servo with a higher ratio??? or just rebuild the original?
PAS rack but with the geometry sorted out! don’t want an electric column due to 5 turns lock to lock, don’t want manual steering due to damaged shoulders and the wife may drive it from time to time,
Some negative camber on the front?
Rear roll bar clamped to the tramp bars? HBE style, what dia bar? good idea or not?
easily removed four point belts?

so thoughts, ideas, comments, I have several other cars from 1923 up to 1968, including a 1972 BMW 3.0 CSiL but that is toooooo valuable to risk on a track! in fact I am beginning to worry when I take it shopping.

My one caveat is, do NOT install 4-point racing belts w/o a proper roll bar/cage.

3-points allow your upper body to crumple over, in the eventuality of the roof crushing down: 4-points do not.

Up rated front springs (left)
Up rated rear spring mounting point (standard bend)
Towing eye
I would fit HS8 carbs , no rubber , easy to set up
WP_20150329_002 - Copy - Copy ![20200415_084416|666x500]

(upload://iSVLeZMmlhz5CWepnXP3R6C8GTt.jpeg)

IMG-20200415-WA0001

IMG-20200415-WA0002

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Fully reconditioned XJ6 3.4 Engine
Copper HT leads , sports coil ,
Uprated rota arm
2" HS8 SU carbs
Mechanical Oil pressure gauge
E-type factory lightweight flywheel
Uprated Radiator core
Electric cooling fan
S-Type Auxiliary water pump
Kevlar hoses
Sincro gearbox with overdrive
3.54 L.S.D Axle
Close ratio steering box
2" straight through Exhuast
XJ6 6" rims 215/70-15 P4000 tyres
Bearing control arm bushes
Moto lita steering wheel , alloy horn push
Air horn
Lowered uprated front springs
Lowered spring mounts
Polycarbonate rear spring spacers
Poly bushes
Uprated rear spring mounting plates
Rear Anti roll bar
GAZ adjustable dampers
Braded clutch and brake hoses
Copper Nickel brake lines
Kill switch
Narrow rear spats
CD player
Sat nav socket
Door mirror
EBC Greenstuff brake pads ,

Leather seats
Towing eye

Next week or 2 , I will have a coolant expansion tank fitted !!
Roll on the Summer :fist_right:

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Also consider battery in the trunk for weight distribution and more space in the engine compartment.

EDIS is a great upgrade.

I have the 10" old spring style clutch which I’ve heard grabs harder than the 9.5" diaphragm (but apparently it’s a heavier pedal tho mine is no problem at all).

The stock round air filter is fine if you want it but the Mk2 heat soaks in the engine compartment and so the engine sucks in hot air. Venting the bottom corners of the engine compartment gives an exit for hot air to escape, also easy to make a small chin scoop to drive fresh up from under the bumper up into the engine compartment - helps a lot with cooling when at speed. I also made a cold air in take under the fender for consistent / fresh air into the carbs.

I would also recommend a painless or similar modern wiring harness if you’re into that sort of thing, I replaced all the old wiring in my car with modern stuff and blade fuses.

Pic for reference.

I owned a 1963 3.8 Mk2 when I was 19 years old! 48 years ago! I fitted triple carbs from a Mk10, I had to file the alloy clutch cylinder mount to get the cylinder more upright, and I relocated the battery to the boot, I think I will leave the battery where it is for now and will keep the std. loom as I don’t intend to remove it, will re wrap the engine compartment loom, I will add some vents, would probably remove the airfilter assy. for the meeting if I do use it for track days, I may as well lighten the flywheel, I think it will fit onto my lathe, I hope it does!

Going for the lighter side of things Ian?:cowboy_hat_face:

I believe you can reverse the top wishbone mount to subframe to achieve a small amount of neg camber.

Hi Ian, who supplies uprated front springs? I assume the welding on the rear spring mounting plate is to prevent the bending? I again assume the series 3 XJ6 3.4 carbs are HS8, by no rubber do you mean you solid mount them to the manifold? I am looking to convert them to manual choke. Pat

No Robin , my pet hate is plastic horn pushes , why people spend all that money on a nice steering wheel and boss , then finish it off with a cheap looking centre , there is a 65k MK2 on e-bay now 65 grand and they fit a cheap plastic horn push :rofl:

Hi matchlesspat , WATJAG LTD supplied the springs ,
Yes plates stops them bending !
I got a job lot of 10 HS8 carbs and 3 manifolds for under £200 , so not sure what they was all off , I picked the best out the lot , and replaced springs jets and the like for new for the 3.4 xj6 engine .
No rubber as in Diaphragms
Cold air getting into the engine bay is not a problem , hot air getting out is , very few Coombs race car’s had the lovers on the bonnet , more common way was to fit spacers under the hinges , to give a bigger gap at the back .
Like yours , my car started as a 240 , so I made my own manual choke and used the slider on the dash .
Pic is early days of fitting engine and carbs , the top mounted Y bracket with a spring was a temp job , to help shut the butterfly’s 100% , worked so well I kept it
Video , good pic of choke working !

,20180516_080810

MC Wilkinson also provide lower front springs. I have pair if you want them for a bottle of wine

PM sent, sounds interesting, Pat

Lower or up rated ?
left is up rated , not lower , see how car sits ! WP_20150329_002 - Copy - Copy

I have lowering blocks at the front too !

Lower and stiffer.

With best regards
Philip Dobson

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Just found a 20mm rear roll bar in the style of HBE, will let you know what it is from when I get it and confirm it will actually do the job, £15.00 plus postage… will need to machine up some clamps.

That’s the one, suspect it is a bit more expensive from HBE! if you can get a better scan of the leaflet that could be handy, no worries if not, making a n/s/r door 1/2 skin today! Pat

Think they are about £450 now , I got this one off e-bay £100 deliverd , from Ken Jenkins.
I cleaned it all up and painted it , did look like new !