Hi, not been on here for a long while but find I have some spare time recently! I am doing a budget restoration on my 240, soon to be a 3.4 Mk2, I removed the rear axle and find one spring has a broken top, short leaf and the next one is a bit sad, the other spring looks very good, does anyone have a used spring or just those leaves, second I need a lower steering plastic cowl or one with a good right side, I have two with the left side broken and parts missing, have araldite ready and waiting!
last question is regarding the factory overdrive gearbox, 1968 all synchro, is it different to a 3.4 overdrive unit? if so is it just stronger springs? I have a 3.4 XJ6 engine to fit,
and very last question, has anyone fitted the guts from an S or E type diff into a Mk2 case, both 4HA, I am in the process of fitting an LSD from one into my case and wonder if there is something I might need to know, thinking thrust washers etc.
The 3.8 overdrive unit had stronger springs and possibly slightly larger accumulator pistons, (not sure about the latter, but it will tell you in the Haynes book).
However for general use, I don’t think it would make any difference at all. There is a place in Sheffield that supplies the parts.
As regards the rear axle. The pinion, pinion seal and input bearings should all be the same, as is the crown wheel and it’s carrier.
I got all my bearings and seals from George Lodge in Hessell near Hull.
I replaced the crown and pinion and all the bearings and seals on my Mk9 recently. I made a spreader and various set up tools for checking the running clearances and it all worked out ok. Getting the preload on the pinion can be tricky if you’ve not done it before
I live in York.
Get in touch if you need any drawings of the spreading tool, set up tools or any other info.
I have a Facebook page with plenty of pictures.
The all synchro is the original from the 1968 240 / Mk2, the engine is an XK unit from a series 3 XJ6 so some differences but the same ish to look at, will be fitting earlier smooth rocker covers etc. not sure if I am keeping the later carbs or trying to revive the originals,
I just spread mine using a porta power ram between the tramp bar brackets, seems to work well, did not overdo it, I will try to wing it regarding the setup……… we shall see, it is a pain as I am changing to an LSD and so none of the shims will be correct unless their machining was super accurate! I have never done this much work on a diff before but what can go wrong ! don’t bother to answer that! I have new seals, I think the bearings will see me out, 80,000 miles from new on the solid axle and the LSD looks even cleaner,
As you are using the 240 box will you use the 240 flywheel and inertia starter ?
The 240 carbs have manual mixture enrichment, not a system I prefer but certainly better than the AED. Two items for the LSD in case you are unaware ! each halfshaft abuts
a seat in the shape of a flat head rivet. these seats sit in the middle of the diff and are held together by a rolled pin, they are not fitted in the IRS diffs.
Is the head removed fron the 240 block?
Peter B.
Hi, I was warned about the thrust pins by a member of a mig welding forum I frequent, I would have spent a lot of time trying to shim the rear wheel bearings! finding them hard to locate right now, sent an email to Ward engineering, I have a plan to use the 240 flywheel but redrill it for the larger clutch, and fit a modern geared starter motor, I scrapped the 240 engine as it was seized, and a 2.4, kept the manifold and carbs, sold the straight port head, the 3.4 XJ6 engine ran very well so I don’t intend to strip it, will check top chain tension and valve settings, one problem with using the XJ6 carbs is that they stick out too far and as I have bought an original large round airfilter I may need to refit the 240 carbs, not looked into all of that yet, my research suggests the 240 overdrive is the same as a 3.4? the 3.8 had more springs, do you know anything about that? don’t plan to strip the overdrive as the 240 is low mileage,
On one 240 engine iI striped the flywheel was drilled for 10" 9 1/2" and, of course, 2.4
9", you sure yours is not drilled 9 1/2 " ?
I am not aware of a difference with the “compact A” all syncro overdrive 2.4 vs 3.4.
The fuction of the 8 springs in the 2.4/3.4 and the 12 springs in the 3.8 Moss box overdrive is to apply pressure to the sliding member clutch lining, that controls overrun ( so there is no freewheel effect) and enables reverse drive.
The overdrive 5th gear effect is enabled by hydraulic pressure applied to the two
pistons that engage the sliding member clutch lining (relevant to the overdrive function)
with the brake ring. The hydraulic pressure for the 3.8 unit is greater than the 2.4/ 3.4,
not sure if this is to overcome the extra spring pressure in the 3.8 unit or to apply greater
adhesion twixt sliding member and brake ring, perhaps a mixture of both .
I`m fairly sure the increased pressure is achieved by more tension for the accumulater spring, but stand to be corrected !"
Peter B
XJ6 3.4 Engine , Factory lightweight E-type fly wheel, 240 gearbox with overdrive , just fitted 3.54 L.S.D , 2" HS8 carbs , I converted to manual choke ,using the 240 choke leaver ,
Made my XJ6 look like a 340 .
mine is double drilled!, I assume for a 9 1/2" clutch, it is a school day everyday! started reassembling the rear axle today, cannot find anyone with the diff roll pin and mushrooms in stock,
SNG and David Manners both show them as special order, I suspect Ward engineering are the manufacturers and they don’t answer emails or their phone, or I could probably buy from them direct, don’t want to order and then be stuck waiting for weeks!
I am going mad trying to shim out the PL diff pinion when fitting it into my Mk2 solid axle! the “new” pinion has +11 etched onto the end, the correct pinion height seems to be 2.625" for a 4ha, so do I need to set MY pinion to 2.614" or 2.636" ? from what I understand it is 2.614"
I understand measured from the raised part (around 1" dia.) in the centre of the pinion rather the outer part?
problem is that with the original shim pack installed I am around 40thou low at 2.655"
to correct this I am thinking to make a 1mm shim to go under the inner bearing, on top of the pinion gear rather than keep removing the outer bearing race, thoughts please!
I cannot understand how I can be so far out though,
