Mk5 Saloon door pillar weather seals

I am finally nearing the end of a 16 year restoration of our 1951 3.5 Mk5.

Can anyone assist pictures/suggestions regarding:
1 - Door seals - I cant work out how to install the weather strips on the front and rear doors that seal off the center pillar. There is a slot in the chrome window frame, which then becomes a gap in the door frame.
2. - Sunroof - rear seal - any suggestions or pics of what type of seal and how to install on the rear of the sunroof, so when you lock the sunroof, the rear section seals as it rises up in line with the roof?

Here is what I have as the upper door frame seal.
As I recall there was a piece on the center pillar that was covered with moquette. Its tucked away in a box but I’ll find it tomorrow.

Here is what Worcester sent me for a rear sunroof seal, a D shaped closed cell foam extrusion, same as for the spare tire door. It should be glued on the sunroof channel about 1/2" back from the step, so it seals not on the rolled edge but a bit back from it.

Dear Rob,
Thank you very much - your two pics of the sunroof seal and the door frame seals are extremely helpful.

One of the issues I struggle with is the density of the aftermarket seals - they have too little “give”, and so they make the various body panels really difficult to close. I obtained all my seals from Worcester, but like a few other cars I have rebuilt, the doors close beautifully with no seals, but once installed, you really have to slam them.

Any tips on how to glue the seals in place? I tried Wurth’s rubber seal glue, but the seals still started lifting or detaching on our XK140.

I am about to start the Mk5 door seal installations - but the method of attachment remains up for debate. Researching it on YouTube, the only consistent consensus seems to be:

  • Rough up the rubber face first;
  • Apply contact adhesive to both rubber face and body of vehicle
  • Apply a second coat of contact adhesive to the rubber face, and then stick to body.

On a related note, the new quarter window seals (now 4 years old) are now more perished and cracked than the originals! 4 years of sitting in the garage whilst undergoing the restoration, no sun exposure.


Here is what I have for door seals. I believe BD.2045 is the part number.
I’m holding them up to my LR door.
Center pillar.

Rear shut panel.

I use 3M Black Weatherstrip Adhesive.

That’s a beautiful looking car! Are you able to post a few more photo’s as I’d love to see the results of your hard work. :blush: What is the exterior colour you have chosen?


Thank you for the door seal pics. Very helpful. I have trial fitted mine, but they seem too stiff and thick, so closing door is almost impossible. I seem to have the correct ones as per your pic.

I need to find a solution using some generic profiles.

Dear Tim
The colour I used is a BMW cream that was used on the E28 models in the mid to late 80s by BMW South Africa.
The Jaguar old English white is just too flat and plain. The BMW cream has a little more life in it.

I will gladly post some more pics. I have done 400 miles now, running engine is.

Should I start a new post topic for an update on my car and some of the issues?


Dear James,

Thank you for the information.

I used Rolls Royce ‘Magnolia’ for the lower part of my two tone MKV for a similar reason you used the BMW colour.

Perhaps a new topic would be fun as you track the new story of the car. I’m running in my engine as well so have yet to take it over 3’500rpm. It’s great fun so long as you aren’t out in hot weather or heavy traffic!

Best wishes,


Sorry James, I used the same sunroof seal from Worcester Classic Spares in the UK as did Rob (he’s such a lovely man). I’ll have a look at the door seals tomorrow and post a photo. The new ‘Furflex’ did make the door far more tight.


Looks lovely, Tim - Mk5 is not an easy car to paint two-tone colours. It can look quite awkward. Yours looks superb. Please send me some pics of how you have done your door seals - the pillar seal for the door, and then the seal for the window frame to pillar. Also pics of how you fitted your moquette, if you can.

I fitted an overdrive off a Mk7M onto the back of my gearbox. It has made a huge difference. I can cruise at 60mph with the revs at 2,500. Our highways are wide and people drive fast, including the trucks, so the mk5 engine is really revving high on the highway with the standard 4-spd. The overdrive makes it feasible to cruise at a higher speed than the trucks, without strain.

I have done 300 miles so far - looking forward to it loosening up a bit. I know the XK twincam engines well, but this is my first early pushrod Jag engine. I have been told they are lovely with plenty of torque once they have loosened up, but they dont enjoy high revs.

Luckily it is now winter here, so I can get the important running-in done whilst the engine stays cool.

Okay, I really want to see how you have done that please! Have you had to modify the chassis to make it fit?

No problem, I’ll do that this weekend.

Best wishes,


I’m sorry I haven’t replied earlier but we’ve been in lockdown here in Melbourne and I haven’t been too well. I’ll try and sneak over to where the car is stored to take some photos for you. Have you been able to take a few photos of the overdrive unit on the rear of the gearbox? I’d really like to know how you have fitted it as I’ve been told so often by others that it can’t be done. It would make all the difference to my car’s highway cruising speed as you know.

One of the advantages of living in the EU has been that trucks are limited by law and by tachograph to a maximum speed of 56 mph which in my 2½ litre SS equates to only 2800 rpm so you can sit in the slow lane comfortably without holding up the traffic. I guess if we still require a flow of perishable goods with the continent that might change to help mitigate the customs delays that will soon become a part of life again.

Pete :roll_eyes:

Hello Peter,

I’m just thinking of the MKV, definitely not the MKIV, and even then I’m just keen to see how the overdrive was fitted. It would be nice to have the extra ‘legs’ on our highways as they are typically only two lanes each way and there can be some anxious moments when you are sitting on 60mph (100kph) at 3’000rpm on a highway which has a limit of 110kph. Most people are very kind to me when I have been in the car, though sometimes the speed differential is problematic. Our trucks are supposed to be ‘speed-limited’ to 100kph but that’s not the reality.


Hi Tim,

Overdrives are lovely but I suspect in engineering terms it would very much easier to fit a 5 speed box than to fit an overdrive to the existing gearbox. (Or even to fit an XK box with O/D already fitted which adds weight as well as bulk.)


I’m sure that you are correct, Peter. I’m just keen to see how James has achieved this on his MKV. I know that on a MKV the motor needs to be removed in order to detach the gearbox.

Thank you for the schematic drawing, very handy.



one of the cheaper simpler and maybe better options is to put a 3.77 CWP into diff housing les revs higher speed

Hi Terry,

I think that would compromise the acceleration quite a bit, so I’ve been told. :roll_eyes:



What tires are those. Radials?? I’m getting ready to change my cracked rubber for a set of White Walls. Coker has some wide white wall radials that I’ve been looking at.


Hi Wayne,

I bought Firestones (crossplys) but can’t locate the receipt. They came from Antique Tyres in Melbourne.

I think it was these?