UK’s recent heat wave (30 degrees in the grim up north) has found me wanting
in the air conditioning department in my '90 XJ6. Car ads in the likes of
Jaguar Enthusiast mag say things like “ice-cold air conditioning”. Mine is
not 
In fact, with the thermostat set as cold as the dial goes, the air
from the middle (and all other) vents was still quite warm. Is there likely
to be an easy fix? Or is it an arm and a leg to the mechanic?
Hopefully…
Yep - it’s an arm and a leg. At least that’s the way it is in the US. I
think the minimum charge is $1000 whatever is wrong and they are going to
find a way to charge you at least that. The usual story is that you need a
new compressor.
The a/c is just not that complicated, and can be maintained by anyone with
some mechanical and electrical abilities. One drawback in the UK is that
you may nor be allowed to purchase refrigerants yourself. If that’s the
case - you are stuck I’m afraid.
The a/c on my XJ40 is just fine, I converted to R134A a couple of years ago
with no problem. It has always provided plenty of cold air even on a
typical balmy 95 degree (35 deg C) day here in Houston. What’s happening in
the UK to get 30 deg C??? I lived in the UK for 20 years and never saw
temps like that.
Since your a/c seems to be working, the likely cause is a low refrigerant
charge. Check the sight glass and see if there is a frothy stream of
bubbles. A thin stream of bubbles is OK, but not a sight glass full. You
can probably get the refrigerant topped off at a reasonable cost. You’ll
need to add have oil added too. Just dodge the places that want to install
a new compressor.
I almost always run the a/c. It keeps the innards coated with oil and that
is what seals the system. If you leave to car with no a/c for a period, you
will start to lose refrigerant.
Dave
At 11:31 PM 6/25/2001 +0100, you wrote:
UK’s recent heat wave (30 degrees in the grim up north) has found me wanting
in the air conditioning department in my '90 XJ6. Car ads in the likes of
Jaguar Enthusiast mag say things like “ice-cold air conditioning”. Mine is
notIn fact, with the thermostat set as cold as the dial goes, the air
from the middle (and all other) vents was still quite warm. Is there likely
to be an easy fix? Or is it an arm and a leg to the mechanic?
Hopefully…
David Hurlston
ViaData LP
Simon,
if the system is still working it is likely to be just low refrigerant
charge. If you can see a continuous stream of bubbles at the sightglass, get
a top up - costs around �70.
If there’s nothing, check if the compressor clutch is engaging - you can see
this visually at the front of the compressor. If not, try checking the relay
as these have been known to fail. If there’s no activiating signal to the
relay, then most likely all the charge has leaked from the system and
triggered the low pressure cut-out.
In this case, you need to get some dye adding into the system and then use a
UV lamp to find the leak. If you need new parts, David Manners has some good
prices ( for X300’s anyway, as I recently found out! ).
I recall that on the earlier cars there may also have been some kind of
fused link around the compressor - might be worth checking out in the
archives.
Cheers - Jez> -----Original Message-----
From: Simon Birbeck [mailto:simon.birbeck@libertysurf.co.uk]
Sent: 25 June 2001 23:32
To: modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [modern] A/C TemperatureUK’s recent heat wave (30 degrees in the grim up north) has
found me wanting
in the air conditioning department in my '90 XJ6. Car ads in
the likes of
Jaguar Enthusiast mag say things like “ice-cold air
conditioning”. Mine is
not
goes, the air
from the middle (and all other) vents was still quite warm.
Is there likely
to be an easy fix? Or is it an arm and a leg to the mechanic?
Hopefully…
Important. This message is intended for the above named person(s)
only and is confidential.
If you are not the person named above or the intended recipient
and have received this message in error please accept our
apologies. Please do not copy it or show it to anyone else. If you
received this message in error, please telephone us on
(+44)(0)1932 404000 or email Helpdesk@IPSARIS.COM
Then, please delete this message. Thank you.
Because internet communications are not always secure the
recipient is responsible for verifying the origin and authenticity
of the content of this message before acting on its contents. All
contracts must be in writing, signed by an authorized officer of
IPSARIS Limited. All orders must be placed on IPSARIS Limited
standard hard copy form.
Please note that IPSARIS Limited may monitor e-mails and other
communications passing between itself and any other person.
Hi Simon,
I’m in the UK and my 90 Sov is showing very similar symptoms. This week I
was at my local independent specialist and I discussed the problem with
him. He said it could be 50 quid or could be 1000. His advice was
before I do anything else, to get and AirCon specialist to check it over.
They will fully charge the system with whatever it runs on but add a dye
that shows up under UV light. They then run the system on full and wander
round with a UV lamp looking for leaks. If anything does leak I can get
a replacement (probably used ‘cos of the cost) if not I can then move on
to the next stage of investigating the distribution system. He explained
that the Air-con rad’ sits in front of the engine rad’ and so is prone to
stone damage. I have booked it in at a local center and been quoted about
90-100 quid. I’ll keep you posted. Watch this space!
Hugh
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 23:31:33 +0100
From: “Simon Birbeck” simon.birbeck@libertysurf.co.uk
Subject: [modern] A/C TemperatureUK’s recent heat wave (30 degrees in the grim up north) has found me
wanting>in the air conditioning department in my '90 XJ6. Car ads in the likes of
Jaguar Enthusiast mag say things like “ice-cold air conditioning”. Mine is
not
from the middle (and all other) vents was still quite warm. Is there likely
to be an easy fix? Or is it an arm and a leg to the mechanic?
Hopefully…
Hi Hugh,
something they didn’t tell you is the Air con rad rusts through (or whatever
the correct phrase is for aluminium corrosion) when exposed to the UK
weather. I’ve had 2 go so far, my previous '88XJ40 went when it was 7 years
old and my '95 X300 went earlier this year. I know of at least one other '95
X300 that has had the same fate.
Kevin-----Original Message-----
From: owner-modern@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-modern@jag-lovers.org]On
Behalf Of Hugh Pritchard
Sent: 26 June 2001 10:23
To: modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C Temperature
Hi Simon,
I’m in the UK and my 90 Sov is showing very similar symptoms. This week I
was at my local independent specialist and I discussed the problem with
him. He said it could be 50 quid or could be 1000. His advice was
before I do anything else, to get and AirCon specialist to check it over.
They will fully charge the system with whatever it runs on but add a dye
that shows up under UV light. They then run the system on full and wander
round with a UV lamp looking for leaks. If anything does leak I can get
a replacement (probably used ‘cos of the cost) if not I can then move on
to the next stage of investigating the distribution system. He explained
that the Air-con rad’ sits in front of the engine rad’ and so is prone to
stone damage. I have booked it in at a local center and been quoted about
90-100 quid. I’ll keep you posted. Watch this space!
Hugh
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 23:31:33 +0100
From: “Simon Birbeck” simon.birbeck@libertysurf.co.uk
Subject: [modern] A/C TemperatureUK’s recent heat wave (30 degrees in the grim up north) has found me
wanting
in the air conditioning department in my '90 XJ6. Car ads in the likes of
Jaguar Enthusiast mag say things like “ice-cold air conditioning”. Mine is
not
from the middle (and all other) vents was still quite warm. Is there likely
to be an easy fix? Or is it an arm and a leg to the mechanic?
Hopefully…
Kevin,
Cheers for that. The place I was visiting was the Kent Jag Centre and the
guy I was speaking to seemed to know what he was talking about. Most of what
he said I had read in the list but he showed me the rad’ on an XJ40 they
were breaking and it did look battered. We then checked my system and there
is something that looks like a tyre valve on one of the rubber hoses, which
he pressed and a bit of gas came out so he suggested the system may be
running a low pressure and the cut out on the compressor may be stopping the
A/C. He went on to say that it follows I may have a small leak somewhere. I
only got the car 3 months ago so I don’t know how long it is since the A/C
last worked. The fans blow out air but in the dash it only comes from the
end vents and not the centre ones. I gather from the list there is a system
of vacuum pipes etc that open and close the flaps that direct the air and I
suspect I may have a problem with these too. Once the cooling system is
running OK I will start to work through the system that distributes the cold
air (Mmmmmmmmmmmm… Cold Air).
All the best.
Hugh-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Fox [mailto:kevin@croslandmedia.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2001 11:02 AM
To: @Hugh_Pritchard; modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C Temperature
Hi Hugh,
something they didn’t tell you is the Air con rad rusts through (or whatever
the correct phrase is for aluminium corrosion) when exposed to the UK
weather. I’ve had 2 go so far, my previous '88XJ40 went when it was 7 years
old and my '95 X300 went earlier this year. I know of at least one other '95
X300 that has had the same fate.
Kevin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-modern@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-modern@jag-lovers.org]On
Behalf Of Hugh Pritchard
Sent: 26 June 2001 10:23
To: modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C Temperature
Hi Simon,
I’m in the UK and my 90 Sov is showing very similar symptoms. This week I
was at my local independent specialist and I discussed the problem with
him. He said it could be 50 quid or could be 1000. His advice was
before I do anything else, to get and AirCon specialist to check it over.
They will fully charge the system with whatever it runs on but add a dye
that shows up under UV light. They then run the system on full and wander
round with a UV lamp looking for leaks. If anything does leak I can get
a replacement (probably used ‘cos of the cost) if not I can then move on
to the next stage of investigating the distribution system. He explained
that the Air-con rad’ sits in front of the engine rad’ and so is prone to
stone damage. I have booked it in at a local center and been quoted about
90-100 quid. I’ll keep you posted. Watch this space!
Hugh
Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001 23:31:33 +0100
From: “Simon Birbeck” simon.birbeck@libertysurf.co.uk
Subject: [modern] A/C TemperatureUK’s recent heat wave (30 degrees in the grim up north) has found me
wanting
in the air conditioning department in my '90 XJ6. Car ads in the likes of
Jaguar Enthusiast mag say things like “ice-cold air conditioning”. Mine is
not
from the middle (and all other) vents was still quite warm. Is there likely
to be an easy fix? Or is it an arm and a leg to the mechanic?
Hopefully…
Hugh,
my XJ40 had a cracking leak and no charge at all, you could see the oil
around the front of the rad, my X300 had a pinhole was harder to find and
took much longer to leak out. My pinhole was caused by attaching an
aluminium core to a steel bracket and then bathing it in British Salt and
Rain (a design carried forward to the X300 from the XJ40.) Another problem
you are likely to encounter is with the gas. Your car is probably R12 which
is no longer available, R134a is the replacement which can be retrofitted to
your system after the compressor oil has been changed. Various information
has been posted to the list so I suggest you wade through the archives to
see whats needed.
Alternatively Kent Jag Centre may be the place to go, depends on what
service they offer and how much you want to pay. I can’t comment on their
services as I’m in the Midlands.
As regards the leak, you need to have the system degassed,(R12 upsets the
Ozone layer,)and then I would suggest removing the core, sealing the pipes
with freezer bags and elastic bands, and having the core pressure tested
with compressed air and a water tank by a radiator specialist.
Limited experience with 4 air con cars suggests that whilst gas does leak
away over time, usually if theres not a lot left the system is likely to
have a tracable leak. Whatever you do, shop around for a replacement core,
prices vary dramatically.
Good luck, and stick with the car, they are a pig when there not running
right, but when fully sorted they are an absolute joy.
Regards
Kevin-----Original Message-----
From: Hugh Pritchard [mailto:hugh@ikuzus.demon.co.uk]
Sent: 26 June 2001 14:27
To: Kevin Fox; modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C Temperature
Kevin,
Cheers for that. The place I was visiting was the Kent Jag Centre and the
guy I was speaking to seemed to know what he was talking about. Most of what
he said I had read in the list but he showed me the rad’ on an XJ40 they
were breaking and it did look battered. We then checked my system and there
is something that looks like a tyre valve on one of the rubber hoses, which
he pressed and a bit of gas came out so he suggested the system may be
running a low pressure and the cut out on the compressor may be stopping the
A/C. He went on to say that it follows I may have a small leak somewhere. I
only got the car 3 months ago so I don’t know how long it is since the A/C
last worked. The fans blow out air but in the dash it only comes from the
end vents and not the centre ones. I gather from the list there is a system
of vacuum pipes etc that open and close the flaps that direct the air and I
suspect I may have a problem with these too. Once the cooling system is
running OK I will start to work through the system that distributes the cold
air (Mmmmmmmmmmmm… Cold Air).
All the best.
Hugh
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 22:45:41 +0100 (BST)
From: “Alastair G. Browne” agbrowne@btinternet.com
Subject: [modern] Re: Modern Digest V1 #2716
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 14:26:51 +0100
From: “Hugh Pritchard” <@Hugh_Pritchard>
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C TemperatureKevin,
[snip!]
is something that looks like a tyre valve on one of the rubber hoses,
which
he pressed and a bit of gas came out so he suggested the system may be
running a low pressure and the cut out on the compressor may be stopping
theA/C.
Hmmm… Interesting. So this guy can tell the pressure of a
refrigeration system by simply pressing the centre of a schraeder
valve in! Amazing! The theory sounds fine but the method used sounds
quite frightening—especially when you consider that at atomospheric
pressure, the refrigerant would emerge at something like -40degC! I
suppose it’s just as well that there wasn’t much in there!
[snip again!]
Alastair
Ooops. Sorry guys.
I don’t think I explained that correctly so I didn’t do him justice. He
never
claimed to tell what the pressure was, only whether there was actually some
pressure left in the system. He then suggested that it didn’t appear to be
as
high as it should and suggested I take it to and Air Con specialist for
further
diagnosis.
I don’t know about the rest of you but I tend to have more respect for the
opinion of a someone who acknowledges the limitations of there ability and
directs you elsewhere than I do for someone who is prepared to take on a job
they may not be best qualified to do the simply to get your business/money.
However as with everything the truth will out and we shall find out whether
he was right or wrong tomorrow when I have the system tested at the
specialist.
As ever I will be sure to keep the listers up to speed on how it goes 
Cheers Hugh.
Jez
I could do with this I think - AC still works but lots of bubbles and quiet
hissing thru vents, gradually getting worse last couple of years. I will
take to an A/C garage but just need to check what’s acceptable.
Mines a '92 I assume its R12? - if so can they recharge with r12 in the UK
or does it have to be r134a? if so can that be mixed with r12 or does the
system need to be drained and refilled?
Should one only go to a place that will check for leaks with dye? I’m hoping
that mine has just a v slow leak cos Its been OK for the three years Ive had
it
Martin-----Original Message-----
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 08:20:55 +0100
From: Paul Stow Paul.Stow@ipsaris.com
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C Temperature
Simon,
if the system is still working it is likely to be just low refrigerant
charge. If you can see a continuous stream of bubbles at the sightglass, get
a top up - costs around �70.
Martin - your system will be R12 ( unless it’s already converted ). I seem
to remember reading that R12 is now illegal in UK, but I’m not sure if that
applies just to new cars, or to top ups as well. Best to check with an a/c
shop - but also try a local agricultural engineering business. A lot of
tractors have a/c and I’ve found these places a lot cheaper than car places
- they are also more likely to have an old bottle of R12 knocking around for
the odd cash job!!
You can’t mix R134A with R12, and R134a needs a different oil so the system
needs to be completely drained down. I believe refilling with R134A and the
appropriate oil is then possible, though the system will not be as efficient
as if a proper conversion kit is fitted because the gasses have somewhat
different properties. There are a number of posts in the archives on this
which would be worth reading.
Getting the UV dye normally only costs an extra fiver or so, so in my view
is worth doing as it will help identify any future leak.
Cheers - Jez> -----Original Message-----
From: Martin Briscoe [mailto:M.H.Briscoe@exeter.ac.uk]
Sent: 27 June 2001 22:54
To: Jag list
Subject: [modern] A/C TemperatureJez
I could do with this I think - AC still works but lots of
bubbles and quiet
hissing thru vents, gradually getting worse last couple of
years. I will
take to an A/C garage but just need to check what’s acceptable.Mines a '92 I assume its R12? - if so can they recharge with
r12 in the UK
or does it have to be r134a? if so can that be mixed with r12
or does the
system need to be drained and refilled?Should one only go to a place that will check for leaks with
dye? I’m hoping
that mine has just a v slow leak cos Its been OK for the
three years Ive had
itMartin
-----Original Message-----
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2001 08:20:55 +0100
From: Paul Stow <@Paul_Stow1>
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C TemperatureSimon,
if the system is still working it is likely to be just low refrigerant
charge. If you can see a continuous stream of bubbles at the
sightglass, get
a top up - costs around �70.
Important. This message is intended for the above named person(s)
only and is confidential.
If you are not the person named above or the intended recipient
and have received this message in error please accept our
apologies. Please do not copy it or show it to anyone else. If you
received this message in error, please telephone us on
(+44)(0)1932 404000 or email Helpdesk@IPSARIS.COM
Then, please delete this message. Thank you.
Because internet communications are not always secure the
recipient is responsible for verifying the origin and authenticity
of the content of this message before acting on its contents. All
contracts must be in writing, signed by an authorized officer of
IPSARIS Limited. All orders must be placed on IPSARIS Limited
standard hard copy form.
Please note that IPSARIS Limited may monitor e-mails and other
communications passing between itself and any other person.
Well I’ve had the job done now and as promised here is what I found.
The system had as near as makes no odds no gas left. When it was charged
and the dye added no leaks could be found. They have suggested I go back
in about 2 weeks time for another quick look but it all looks good right
now! So I now have some cold air. The thing we did notice is that the
condenser cooling fan wasn’t cutting in. Evidently it should cut in at
about 17 bar pressure but even running it up to 20 bar it still didn’t
operate. The technician suggested that possibly if the air con rad’ had
got over hot and the fan didn’t cut in then the pressure in the system
may have got so high the gas could have vented away. I should find out
over the next few days and weeks if there is still a leak.
I had a brief fright on the journey home when I got my first ever Check
Engine warning. I queried the VCM and it reported Fuel Fail 14. A quick
call to Kent Jag Centre and they said that comes from a thermister(?)
on the inlet manifold. Open the bonnet and low and behold the sensor is
broken right off. No problem they had them in stock @ �15 so 30 minutes
later I am parked in their workshop having a replacement fitted. End of
problem. While I was there they checked the fan by bypassing the
thermostat switch on the rad’ and it spun up fine so I have ordered a new
switch. (about �25 I understand).
The thing that I hope may be of help to people here is that, as has been
posted already R12 is not permitted in the UK. I asked about R135a but
they said to convert I would have to have all the O rings and hoses
replaced as over time the R12 permeates the rubber they suggested a cost
of �750. What they did instead was they filled it with R416a which they
informed me was a straight replacement & 100% compatible. So with 1400
grammes of R416a and a shot of Glo-Leak check fluid, an hour or so labour
and the VAT, total bill �107.65.
Of course that’s not the end of the story. When I say I have cold air,
I mean it only seems to come out on my feet and from the vents at the
ends of the dash not from the centre vents. I guess I will have to move
on to stage 2 now, the vacuum system. However, I’ve probably bored you
enough now so I will save anything further for another post.
Cheers
Hugh>From: owner-modern@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-modern@jag-lovers.org]On
Behalf Of Hugh Pritchard
Sent: 26 June 2001 10:23
To: modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C Temperature
Hi Simon,
I’m in the UK and my 90 Sov is showing very similar symptoms. This week I
was at my local independent specialist and I discussed the problem with
him. He said it could be 50 quid or could be 1000. His advice was
before I do anything else, to get and AirCon specialist to check it over.
They will fully charge the system with whatever it runs on but add a dye
that shows up under UV light. They then run the system on full and wander
round with a UV lamp looking for leaks. If anything does leak I can get
a replacement (probably used ‘cos of the cost) if not I can then move on
to the next stage of investigating the distribution system. He explained
that the Air-con rad’ sits in front of the engine rad’ and so is prone to
stone damage. I have booked it in at a local center and been quoted about
90-100 quid. I’ll keep you posted. Watch this space!
Hugh
you guys are real lucky with those XJ40s… on the newer cars a check engine
light means making an apppointment and leaving the car for the day…
that’s called progress…
Pascal
Miami, FL----- Original Message -----
From: “Hugh Pritchard” hugh@ikuzus.demon.co.uk
I had a brief fright on the journey home when I got my first ever Check
Engine warning. I queried the VCM and it reported Fuel Fail 14. A quick
call to Kent Jag Centre and they said that comes from a thermister(?)
on the inlet manifold. Open the bonnet and low and behold the sensor is
broken right off. No problem they had them in stock @ �15 so 30 minutes
later I am parked in their workshop having a replacement fitted. End of
problem. While I was there they checked the fan by bypassing the
thermostat switch on the rad’ and it spun up fine so I have ordered a new
switch. (about �25 I understand).
Sorry again. I really must try to be clearer in my ramblings.
I have just been back to look at the car to check what I am on
about!
In the radiator in the bottom corner there is a thermostatically
operated switch that should turn on the fan when it reaches a
certain temp. When we bypassed this switch the fan ran OK so I
assume the motor and relay are fine. However when we raised the
temp of the cooling system it didn’t run so the smart money is
on the thermostatic switch. This therefore is what I propose
to replace next.
Thanks for the advice on the vents. I will get on the archives
and get the info posted there.
Cheers n beers
Hugh-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Stow [mailto:Paul.Stow@ipsaris.com]
Sent: 29 June 2001 17:38
To: ‘@Hugh_Pritchard’; modern@lyons.jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C Temperature
Hugh - glad to hear you’re making progress. Not sure I understand your mail,
but have you replaced the pressure switch on the a/c to cause the fan to cut
in, or was it the radiator switch?
The centre vent problem is most likely a disconnected vacuum pipe, but may
also be that the flaps themselves are sticking or a problem with the
solenoid. The solenoids are mounted on the tranmission hump behind the
climate control panel, though you can get some level of access from the
footwells. Can’t remember which is which offhand, but I have previously
posted the info to the archives. You can disconnect pipes to feel for vacuum
etc to help trace the fault, and even do a temporary replumb of the supply
vacuum directly to the vents to see if they will move that way. Remember to
test with the engine running though, as the vacuum reservoir doesn’t last
that long.
Cheers - Jez
Hi All,
I checked the archives, but could not find a solid answer.
I replaced my key fob batteries about 4 months ago, and now they are dead
again.
I bought some from a camera store and I thought they were the right kind. I
guess not, even though I cross checked the type.
Anyway, I called the dealer parts guy and asked them what kind of battery to
use. He said the ones they sell are not alkaline, but lithium, like camera
batteries.
I need the coin cell type for my 1995 XJR with factory alarm. I don’t think
I want to spend $13.52 a pop at the dealer for lithium coin cells.
Has anyone had any success using replacement batteries for their alarm
transmitters?
Thanks
Tim Sheehan
1995 XJR
I’m trying to remember, I replaced batteries in both the 94 XJ40 rectagular
style, and the 96 X300 transmitter using similar coin batteries
no problems.
right now, in one transmitter, 99, I have batteries marked Li Mn 3V which I
guess is lithium… In the other one, 00, the bateries look the same but are
not marked LI … I guess they’re not lithium…
both 99 and 00 transmitters have the same part numbers, and FCC codes on the
back.
Pascal
I checked the archives, but could not find a solid answer.
I replaced my key fob batteries about 4 months ago, and now they are dead
again.I bought some from a camera store and I thought they were the right kind.
I
guess not, even though I cross checked the type.Anyway, I called the dealer parts guy and asked them what kind of battery
to
use. He said the ones they sell are not alkaline, but lithium, like camera
batteries.I need the coin cell type for my 1995 XJR with factory alarm. I don’t
think----- Original Message -----
From: “Timothy Sheehan” timish@pacbell.net
I want to spend $13.52 a pop at the dealer for lithium coin cells.Has anyone had any success using replacement batteries for their alarm
transmitters?
markings are
panasonic cr2016 and varta cr 2016 LI-Mn3V
Pascal
Miami, FL
99 XJR
00 XKR
72 XKE----- Original Message -----
From: “Timothy Sheehan” timish@pacbell.net
To: “Pascal Gademer” <@Pascal_Gademer>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: [modern] Alarm FOB Battery Replacement
Pascal,
On the lithium batteries are there any part numbers or reference numbers?
Thanks for checking!
Tim
Hugh - glad to hear you’re making progress. Not sure I understand your mail,
but have you replaced the pressure switch on the a/c to cause the fan to cut
in, or was it the radiator switch?
The centre vent problem is most likely a disconnected vacuum pipe, but may
also be that the flaps themselves are sticking or a problem with the
solenoid. The solenoids are mounted on the tranmission hump behind the
climate control panel, though you can get some level of access from the
footwells. Can’t remember which is which offhand, but I have previously
posted the info to the archives. You can disconnect pipes to feel for vacuum
etc to help trace the fault, and even do a temporary replumb of the supply
vacuum directly to the vents to see if they will move that way. Remember to
test with the engine running though, as the vacuum reservoir doesn’t last
that long.
Cheers - Jez> -----Original Message-----
From: Hugh Pritchard [mailto:hugh@ikuzus.demon.co.uk]
Sent: 29 June 2001 16:59
To: modern@lyons.jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C TemperatureWell I’ve had the job done now and as promised here is what I found.
The system had as near as makes no odds no gas left. When it
was charged
and the dye added no leaks could be found. They have
suggested I go back
in about 2 weeks time for another quick look but it all looks
good right
now! So I now have some cold air. The thing we did notice is that the
condenser cooling fan wasn’t cutting in. Evidently it should cut in at
about 17 bar pressure but even running it up to 20 bar it still didn’t
operate. The technician suggested that possibly if the air
con rad’ had
got over hot and the fan didn’t cut in then the pressure in the system
may have got so high the gas could have vented away. I should find out
over the next few days and weeks if there is still a leak.I had a brief fright on the journey home when I got my first
ever Check
Engine warning. I queried the VCM and it reported Fuel Fail
14. A quick
call to Kent Jag Centre and they said that comes from a thermister(?)
on the inlet manifold. Open the bonnet and low and behold the
sensor is
broken right off. No problem they had them in stock @ �15 so
30 minutes
later I am parked in their workshop having a replacement
fitted. End of
problem. While I was there they checked the fan by bypassing the
thermostat switch on the rad’ and it spun up fine so I have
ordered a new
switch. (about �25 I understand).The thing that I hope may be of help to people here is that,
as has been
posted already R12 is not permitted in the UK. I asked about R135a but
they said to convert I would have to have all the O rings and hoses
replaced as over time the R12 permeates the rubber they
suggested a cost
of �750. What they did instead was they filled it with R416a
which they
informed me was a straight replacement & 100% compatible. So with 1400
grammes of R416a and a shot of Glo-Leak check fluid, an hour
or so labour
and the VAT, total bill �107.65.Of course that’s not the end of the story. When I say I have cold air,
I mean it only seems to come out on my feet and from the vents at the
ends of the dash not from the centre vents. I guess I will
have to move
on to stage 2 now, the vacuum system. However, I’ve probably bored you
enough now so I will save anything further for another post.Cheers
Hugh
From: owner-modern@jag-lovers.org
[mailto:owner-modern@jag-lovers.org]On
Behalf Of Hugh Pritchard
Sent: 26 June 2001 10:23
To: modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C Temperature
Hi Simon,
I’m in the UK and my 90 Sov is showing very similar
symptoms. This week I
was at my local independent specialist and I discussed the
problem with
him. He said it could be 50 quid or could be 1000. His advice was
before I do anything else, to get and AirCon specialist to
check it over.
They will fully charge the system with whatever it runs on
but add a dye
that shows up under UV light. They then run the system on
full and wander
round with a UV lamp looking for leaks. If anything does
leak I can get
a replacement (probably used ‘cos of the cost) if not I can
then move on
to the next stage of investigating the distribution system.
He explained
that the Air-con rad’ sits in front of the engine rad’ and
so is prone to
stone damage. I have booked it in at a local center and been
quoted about
90-100 quid. I’ll keep you posted. Watch this space!
Hugh
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Hugh,
The ac system can vent almost all the gas if the pressure goes over whatever
the pressure relief valve is set for.
Its possible to vent all the gas, but show no leak.
On my car, the pressure relief valve is on the top front of the filter
drier.
In most cases, when the vent opens, it will open at a lower pressure
in the future.
Over temp means over pressure…cars with dirty radiators or fan problems,
or some clog or a stuck expansion valve can cause over pressure, as
well as running the engine above idle with the ac on, on cars with
mechanical fans.
Failure of the electric fan setup to come on may blow the relief valve
also.
Of course, you could have a very slow leak someplace you cant see.
Leaks are almost always visible as oil stains on parts.
Brett
1990 XJ6>
Well I’ve had the job done now and as promised here is what I found.
The system had as near as makes no odds no gas left. When it
was charged
and the dye added no leaks could be found. They have
suggested I go back
in about 2 weeks time for another quick look but it all looks
good right
now! So I now have some cold air. The thing we did notice is that the
condenser cooling fan wasn’t cutting in. Evidently it should cut in at
about 17 bar pressure but even running it up to 20 bar it still didn’t
operate. The technician suggested that possibly if the air
con rad’ had
got over hot and the fan didn’t cut in then the pressure in the system
may have got so high the gas could have vented away. I should find out
over the next few days and weeks if there is still a leak.I had a brief fright on the journey home when I got my first
ever Check
Engine warning. I queried the VCM and it reported Fuel Fail
14. A quick
call to Kent Jag Centre and they said that comes from a thermister(?)
on the inlet manifold. Open the bonnet and low and behold the
sensor is
broken right off. No problem they had them in stock @ �15 so
30 minutes
later I am parked in their workshop having a replacement
fitted. End of
problem. While I was there they checked the fan by bypassing the
thermostat switch on the rad’ and it spun up fine so I have
ordered a new
switch. (about �25 I understand).The thing that I hope may be of help to people here is that,
as has been
posted already R12 is not permitted in the UK. I asked about R135a but
they said to convert I would have to have all the O rings and hoses
replaced as over time the R12 permeates the rubber they
suggested a cost
of �750. What they did instead was they filled it with R416a
which they
informed me was a straight replacement & 100% compatible. So with 1400
grammes of R416a and a shot of Glo-Leak check fluid, an hour
or so labour
and the VAT, total bill �107.65.Of course that’s not the end of the story. When I say I have cold air,
I mean it only seems to come out on my feet and from the vents at the
ends of the dash not from the centre vents. I guess I will
have to move
on to stage 2 now, the vacuum system. However, I’ve probably bored you
enough now so I will save anything further for another post.Cheers
Hugh
From: owner-modern@jag-lovers.org
[mailto:owner-modern@jag-lovers.org]On
Behalf Of Hugh Pritchard
Sent: 26 June 2001 10:23
To: modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C Temperature
Hi Simon,
I’m in the UK and my 90 Sov is showing very similar
symptoms. This week I
was at my local independent specialist and I discussed the
problem with
him. He said it could be 50 quid or could be 1000. His advice was
before I do anything else, to get and AirCon specialist to
check it over.
They will fully charge the system with whatever it runs on
but add a dye
that shows up under UV light. They then run the system on
full and wander
round with a UV lamp looking for leaks. If anything does
leak I can get
a replacement (probably used ‘cos of the cost) if not I can
then move on
to the next stage of investigating the distribution system.
He explained
that the Air-con rad’ sits in front of the engine rad’ and
so is prone to
stone damage. I have booked it in at a local center and been
quoted about
90-100 quid. I’ll keep you posted. Watch this space!
Hugh
Hugh,
The sensor in the bottom of the rad is set for a high temp,
and since its in the bottom of the radiator, the coolant
has to be very hot in the bottom before the fan comes on.
Most cars wont run the fan under normal conditions.
You can remove the sensor and put it in a pot of water and
place it on the stove. A thermometer will show the water temp,
and an ohm meter will show when it closes.
I would think the temp is stamped on the sensor someplace.
Brett
1990 XJ6>
Sorry again. I really must try to be clearer in my ramblings.
I have just been back to look at the car to check what I am on
about!In the radiator in the bottom corner there is a thermostatically
operated switch that should turn on the fan when it reaches a
certain temp. When we bypassed this switch the fan ran OK so I
assume the motor and relay are fine. However when we raised the
temp of the cooling system it didn’t run so the smart money is
on the thermostatic switch. This therefore is what I propose
to replace next.Thanks for the advice on the vents. I will get on the archives
and get the info posted there.Cheers n beers
Hugh
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Stow [mailto:Paul.Stow@ipsaris.com]
Sent: 29 June 2001 17:38
To: ‘hugh@ikuzus.demon.co.uk’; modern@lyons.jag-lovers.org
Subject: RE: [modern] A/C TemperatureHugh - glad to hear you’re making progress. Not sure I
understand your mail,
but have you replaced the pressure switch on the a/c to cause
the fan to cut
in, or was it the radiator switch?The centre vent problem is most likely a disconnected vacuum
pipe, but may
also be that the flaps themselves are sticking or a problem with the
solenoid. The solenoids are mounted on the tranmission hump behind the
climate control panel, though you can get some level of
access from the
footwells. Can’t remember which is which offhand, but I have
previously
posted the info to the archives. You can disconnect pipes to
feel for vacuum
etc to help trace the fault, and even do a temporary replumb
of the supply
vacuum directly to the vents to see if they will move that
way. Remember to
test with the engine running though, as the vacuum reservoir
doesn’t last
that long.Cheers - Jez
You are correct, Hugh: the radiator thermostatic switch in my 1993 XJ12
(same as in the 6) is also faulty, and this is a known weak point of the
1993-4 cars.
The switch should activate slow speed at around 195F, and fast at around
210F. On the 6, there is also a pressure switch on the A/con which also
brings on the fan in 2 stages, depending on A/con operating pressure.
This is not used on the 12 as it has an engine-driven fan as well, thus
maintaining constant airflow through the condenser.
Cheers (n beers!)
Graeme Hoy