[modern] "Lady Catherine" - 88 XJ40 with 138,275 miles

Hello all. I recently put on the road the
above-captioned car, 88 XJ40, - The Lady Catherine -
and have found numerous problems with it. A sampling:

ABS Failure, Bulb Failure (back-ups don’t work),
intermittent setting on the wiper doesn’t work right.
I’ve read the simple solutions to these 2 problems in
the Jag-lovers site. Also, gets horrible gas mileage
in the low gears (when traveling city speeds) -from 0
to 30 MPH, RPMs get to 2000 or so when I accelerate,
yet the speed hardly increases (I don’t think it
should rev like that, should it?)and needs to be at 60

  • 70 MPH before O/D engages. However, once it gets to
    80 or so, the range mileage actually seems to increase
    sometimes. Is the computer nuts or what? I hope you
    guys don’t tell me I need a new transmission.

Also, the gas lid does not open. I have yet to find
the release lever in the driver’s floor area. The
dealer told me today that some models did not have it.
Also said that the cap should “unlock” when the doors
are open and the engine is turned off. In other
words, I should be able to just lift it. I currently
have to open the trunk and push a white lever in order
to unlock the gas cover. The doors don’t seem to have
an automatic unlock feature. I have to use the
central “panic” button to lock them or push down on
the front driver/passenger door locks. The mirrors
also don’t move. The motors seem to make noise, but
the side mirrors don’t move. Also, the rear doors
don’t open from the outside. The handles seem to be
unlinked from the doors. They do open from the
inside, though. The dealer thought that these
problems might all be related to something electrical,
although I don’t think so, since the motors for the
mirrors work, and the door locks & windows also work.
I think that the rear door handles might have been
disconnected from the cabling inside the panels. I am
also having numerous problems w/the engine and the
power steering rack. I think I may have a problem
w/the new rotors & pads I had installed in October.
I’ll have a clue tomorrow, as I am taking her to a
store that specializes in tires, axles, and other
related components.

I am sorry to dump all of these problems on you guys,
but I am not really mechanically inclined and am
trying to learn as I go. I am hoping to be able to do
as much of the work (that’s not a part of a safety
system) myself, although I live in Westchester County,
and it is getting bruttaly cold out.

Thanks so much!

Dimas.__________________________________________________
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Dimas,

However, once it gets to

80 or so, the range mileage actually seems to increase
sometimes. Is the computer nuts or what? I hope you
guys don’t tell me I need a new transmission.

try changing the trans fluid first, clean the pan magnet and filter, see if
that improves anything

Also, the gas lid does not open. I have yet to find
the release lever in the driver’s floor area. The
dealer told me today that some models did not have it.

With the doors unlocked and the ignition off, push down on the filler lid
and release. If working correctly it should pop up.

Also said that the cap should “unlock” when the doors
are open and the engine is turned off. In other
words, I should be able to just lift it. I currently
have to open the trunk and push a white lever in order
to unlock the gas cover.

Me too, haven’t fixed mine yet ;-{

The doors don’t seem to have

an automatic unlock feature. I have to use the
central “panic” button to lock them or push down on
the front driver/passenger door locks.

Unlock or lock? eh? The panic button is only to lock the doors and roll up
windows, you have to pull up on the lock gismos to unlock it from the
inside.

The mirrors

also don’t move. The motors seem to make noise, but
the side mirrors don’t move. Also, the rear doors
don’t open from the outside. The handles seem to be
unlinked from the doors. They do open from the
inside, though. The dealer thought that these
problems might all be related to something electrical,
although I don’t think so, since the motors for the
mirrors work, and the door locks & windows also work.
I think that the rear door handles might have been
disconnected from the cabling inside the panels.

Probably right, you’ll have to get in there and check things out, also lube
all moving parts while you’re there.

I am

also having numerous problems w/the engine and the
power steering rack.

Like what???

I think I may have a problem

w/the new rotors & pads I had installed in October.

Why?

I’ll have a clue tomorrow, as I am taking her to a
store that specializes in tires, axles, and other
related components.

Be careful what you let them work on… horror stories abound…

I am sorry to dump all of these problems on you guys,
but I am not really mechanically inclined and am
trying to learn as I go. I am hoping to be able to do
as much of the work (that’s not a part of a safety
system) myself, although I live in Westchester County,

Where’s that?

and it is getting bruttaly cold out.

Thanks so much!

Dimas.

Blake
88XJ40

Dimas,
Most of your problems are addressed on the Jag-lovers modern web page.

ABS Failure,
Overvolts relay in trunk needs to be soldered or rotted rear
wheel sensor.

Bulb Failure (back-ups don’t work),
Back up bulbs burned out, problem with the rear bulb fail
modules…these frequently need the solder touched up around
the big parts and the connectors for the sub boards inside.
The bulb sockets can also be loose (bulb flops around).
ALL the bulbs are monitored and operated by the bulb fail modules.
Locations of the bulb fail modules pictured in haynes…

intermittent setting on the wiper doesn’t work right.
In what way?
Most problems are caused by a blown in line fuse inside the dash
under the glove box…was a 7.5 amp fuse, should be a 10 amp.
You have to be careful to not have the wiper frozen to the
windshield, that will blow the park fuse.
Its also possible to have a dirty micro switch inside the wiper
motor…it powers the wiper (through the fuse) during intermittent
and park modes…wd40 often fixes it if you get it inside the switch.

I’ve read the simple solutions to these 2 problems in
the Jag-lovers site. Also, gets horrible gas mileage
in the low gears (when traveling city speeds) -from 0
to 30 MPH, RPMs get to 2000 or so when I accelerate,
yet the speed hardly increases (I don’t think it
should rev like that, should it?)

Does not sound right at all…slipping trans?
Kickdown cable not adjusted correctly, fluid level incorrect,
gummed up trans (non use) worn out clutches (not good) gummed
up governor on rear of trans (serviceable).
Lockup is supposed to be at 52 mph.

and needs to be at 60

  • 70 MPH before O/D engages. However, once it gets to
    80 or so, the range mileage actually seems to increase
    sometimes. Is the computer nuts or what? I hope you
    guys don’t tell me I need a new transmission.

MPG can be much better at speed…

Also, the gas lid does not open. I have yet to find
the release lever in the driver’s floor area. The
dealer told me today that some models did not have it.
Also said that the cap should “unlock” when the doors
are open and the engine is turned off. In other
words, I should be able to just lift it. I currently
have to open the trunk and push a white lever in order
to unlock the gas cover.

Various cars have different setups.
My car has a lever, some cars you push the lid down and it operates
a switch and solenoid to unlatch the lid.

The doors don’t seem to have

an automatic unlock feature. I have to use the
central “panic” button to lock them or push down on
the front driver/passenger door locks.

No central unlock button, but there is provision for a remote
lock/unlock feature. Some early cars had an infrared system
up by the inside lights.

The mirrors

also don’t move. The motors seem to make noise, but
the side mirrors don’t move.

Problems inside the mirrors…you have to take them apart
and see what is wrong.

Also, the rear doors

don’t open from the outside. The handles seem to be
unlinked from the doors. They do open from the
inside, though.

If the doors are unlocked, something is broke or fell off
inside the doors. The door handles frequently break on the early
cars.

The dealer thought that these

problems might all be related to something electrical,
although I don’t think so, since the motors for the
mirrors work, and the door locks & windows also work.
I think that the rear door handles might have been
disconnected from the cabling inside the panels.

Does not sound electrical to me…don’t trust THAT dealers…

I am

also having numerous problems w/the engine and the
power steering rack. I think I may have a problem
w/the new rotors & pads I had installed in October.

If the rack is stiff in the morning, that is normal for
a well worn rack…only a problem if it bothers you.
Sometimes adjusting the allen screw on the rack to remove some
play helps, as does barrs leaks power steering fluid conditioner
and stop leak (in hsmo systems).

I’ll have a clue tomorrow, as I am taking her to a
store that specializes in tires, axles, and other
related components.

I would stay away from places like that unless you want more problems.
Unless they work on Jaguars a lot, and have a good rep, avoid them.

I am sorry to dump all of these problems on you guys,
but I am not really mechanically inclined and am
trying to learn as I go. I am hoping to be able to do
as much of the work (that’s not a part of a safety
system) myself, although I live in Westchester County,
and it is getting brutally cold out.

You need a garage, a friend with a garage, to move down south,
or another car till spring!

Thanks so much!

Dimas.
Do You Yahoo!?

No

Brett
1990 XJ6