Mostly only the ignition stuff, and be careful going at the firewall. And maybe the radiator.
And any pulley or alternator bearings stickers and id plates. The exhaust manifolds if ceramic. And the brake fluid. Obviously.
I‘d wash the radiator with some distance.
Hey guys, I’m updating this thread, have made some progress recently and forgot to post in here.
Did a compression test with wet cylinders, not very good compression but this thing has sat a long time, video is here:
I’ve pulled the fuel filter and replaced that, pretty straight forward but messy job. I used some aluminum pans for a propane grill to hold some of the gas leaking out of the lines towards the front of the car.
Needed to rebuild the carbs, and could not remove them easily due to air cleaner, no access, pulled distributor cap/rotor and removed the entire intake manifold. This was really obnoxious, but here’s the video on it:
I have rebuild two of the three carbs so far, and the diaphram in the bottom near the jet was completely brittle/shattered plastic when I pulled them apart, and the float was bad and full of fuel on one of them. More updates soon, need to rebuild the last one and redo the intake manifold (cosmetics)
IOnteresting. I was a YUou tube affcionado! but, te ancient Dell Pc tat I watched on has a hissy. Way out dated on XP professional. The clock is off and i can not reset it. This pC, also ancient, has no soud??
when i get around to it, I will try it on a Chromebook that i have. I hope i can google search my way in as I used to fdo on te old Dell.
For your car: Nice.
Indeed, there are drais . Access by remving hard rubber plugs frm the Valences, just behind the rear wheels. A large plug wit a smaller one in it.
When i drained mine, It was with the arge ne!! Lottsa gas to deal with. i had jsut filled up!
Welcome to the pond.
I will look for yur channel when I reestlsh connectivity!
CHE
depends how long they have been sitting but its not uncommon to have stuck rings in the piston grooves, you can only hope they free up of their own accord
You should do a ‘dry’ test first, then a ‘wet’ test, Rob - the raise with the latter indicates the amount of bore/ring wear/anomalies. The former relates basically to valves…
The specs are ‘even, within 15%’ so 110/90 is slightly off specs - not alarmingly, but may warrant some concern. Hence the need for a ‘dry/wet’ comparison…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Gotta say, it’s really weird how the cover image for the Youtube video is an actual photo I took of my car? 
6 Likes
I noticed that beautiful engine, and assumed the video would show it as completion of the project. Did seem strange that it didn’t. It is magnificent, especially the polish. I like the oil filler cap and the red block, which I might copy.
Below is mine. I had to cut down the vacuum chamber spigots to clear the bonnet. You inspire me to polish. 
3 Likes
Hey, if you’re not cool with it I will change it, I just didn’t have a good photo to show the triple carbs on my engine, so I just did a google search. I’ll swap it with something else if it bugs you, just let me know. Or if anyone has a better photo of triple SUs on an XK engine, I’d use that too.
One other question: Your thermostate housing is different from Robert Wilkensons; how is his just a straight radiator hose and yours has all the castings? Mine is more like yours.
There numerous variations on the manifolds, and associated attachments such as thermostat housing on the various vehicles that had triple carbs, 3.8 MKX, 4.2 MKX, 420G, and various E-types
I think Robert has a 420G manifold. I have a 420G, so I know about the thermo housing situation, and they are different (and rare)
I would stick with E-type parts if possible, as they are generally more available
1 Like
Rob I saw you selling this couple months ago. Glad to see you decided to keep? What are you next plans with his old girl?
Nick retained more Series 1 stuff (or similar), including the header tank at the front. I fit Series 3 stuff (e.g. radiator, fan, fan shroud, header tank (the brown tank with filler cap near the left inner wing). Both Nick and I fit a Series 3 brake master cylinder, I see.
The photo I posted above is from Pete Crespin’s book on purchasing an XJ6. I can’t find my copy of the book, but the caption is something like “beware of POs who make all sorts of modifications to their cars.”
2 Likes
It was Crespin who put me on to using socket head allen screws for tight spots (of which there are many on a Jag), even a non-modified one
@ the OP, make sure you replace the tricky ones with the exact best fastener, my last purchase was M6 x 12mm SS items for a particular task
Starter motor and some exhaust are XJ specials
1 Like
Finally got the carbs off! FINALLY! Super obnoxious job, def going to run no air filters until it runs perfectly. Or mini filters. Idk yet.
1 Like
Just be aware that without filters the engine will run a bit leaner, so if you tune the engine w/o the filters be prepared to reset the fuel air mixture when you refit the air filters.
1 Like
I ran an engine without air filters for a short time some years back
I advise against doing this especially if you are working on a vehicle, as some nut or washer may happen to make its way through the valves
You will then find out that removing the cylinder head on a long stud 4.2 is much, much worse than removing the carbs
1 Like
That looks fantastic! Good Job!
To mirror others’ opinions, operating the car on the road w/o filters can lead to disaster. Not worth the small effort to install them.
I don’t think you guys understand the existing air filter. There is a 0% chance that it going back on the car. It’s impossible to remove with the carbs on the car.