More Insurance Fun

At least it isn’t an “oil” treatment. :face_with_peeking_eye:

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Never used one, never will. :rofl:

I had 0 deductible but changed it to $1000. My premium went down by hundreds.For the number of times I drive it a year I’ll take the added risk.

Only one of my vehicles is carrying full coverage at $1000/year, and not the E type, hence the $500 deductible. The Jaguar just has liability at $350/year.

An interesting conversation, as it corresponds to one a couple of months ago on the Jaguar F forum.
I have had my 69 E insured with Hagerty for over 30 years, $85K agreed value. It’s no Concours car, but a very mechanically solid and nice looking Series 2 coupe. Pursuant to the insurance discussion on the F forum, I checked to see what it would cost to insure the 2017 F and the 2018 Corvette with Hagerty. These two vehicles were, at the time, covered under conventional home/auto policy for the state of Wisconsin. I involved my ins. agent in this thought process and ultimately realized that the Fs and Corvette’s value was wherever KBB valued them…high $20K . With the specialized aluminum repair that the F requires ( https://www.jaguarusa.com/retailer-locator-bodyshop.html ) I came to the scary realization that my now 7 year old F, may well be considered ‘totalled’ with any small amount of crash damage. IIRC, cost to repair at 70% is ‘totalled" and for a KBB value of $29K on the F, if repair cost more than $20k, it’s done.
After supplying photos to Hagerty, we moved both the cars over, under "agreed value’. and with the same coverages as we had with the home/auto policy and cost is LESS than standard home/auto policy.
I encourage any E owner to review her/his valuation on the car. No matter what it looks like, condition of the paint is somewhat irrelevant, because the real work is in the structure of the car. The ‘stupid garage accident’ that I had with my E this past August, is now up to $25k. The bonnet was up, so some nose damage, the undervalance was toast. Yes, perhaps the E values are not as high as they were, but the COST to repair yours is NEVER going to go down. And just try to find a reputable shop that knows and understands this car. Risk vs reward, but for a few hundred dollars are you truly willing to risk your E?

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Valarie could you send me a picture of your under valance? I could be interested the problem would be getting it

For your corvette, NCM, national corvette museum insurance is hard to beat.

Hagerty is great.

USAA would not give me a Umbrella policy unless all my cars were with them…not real happy

Big issue with many modern cars, hybrids, EVs, and ordinary cars designed to meet emissions laws, is the use of Aluminium in their construction.

In even a small accident that affects the chassis, these cars cannot be repaired by pulling them back into shape. Aluminium doesn’t bend like steel, it fractures. Consequently, a lot of cars are written off by insurers when, if they had been made of steel, they might have been repairable.

The premium for my Q2 daily driver has doubled in two years because of this.

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Years ago when companies with fleets of cars actually bought the vehicles and ran them (today such fleets are leased) it was common for the company to self insure the fleet. Basic legal minimum cover was required by law (here in Blighty referred to as Road Traffic Act cover), and all other risks were managed by the fleet manager (and personnel for those who were clumsy drivers). Tame or in-house workshops dealt with routine maintenance and small repairs.

For those of you with small fleets of classic cars, perhaps this is an option?

I was on a tour of the Morgan factory last year and saw their bonded aluminium core structure so asked the guide how to get it repaired especially outside of the UK if it got tweaked. I did not think his answer sounded too promising without much trouble and expense.

David
68 E-type FHC

Did you have any cars with USAA?

We have house and two cars with them and got the umbrella policy.

We have two ‘registered/licensed’ driveable cars and three ‘projects’ (not ‘registered/licensed’, not separately insured, covered by homeowners insurance as they are in garages). The XJS will, eventually, be the first car back out and registered/licensed … eventually … at my slow pace of work. :slightly_smiling_face:

I do the same with my outboard motor

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Well it does bend quite easily actually it depends on the type of alloy such as 5051 easy
Or 6061 stiffer or 2024 t3 doesn’t want to bend will crack as you say and then welding is a whole set of other problems because of the area affected by heat

Cheers

Aluminum panel on my driver got dented pretty easily, paint not scratched. A PDR guy came and straightened it out. Didn’t seem to be a problem. Structural is probably a whole different thing.
pauls