Motive Power Bleeder

Well, if I’m going to pressure bleed, i’m going to do the whole lot. Probably need a smaller innertube.

Okay, so I needed to add a second gasket inside the red Motive cap, and now I get a pretty good seal, although not perfect (pressure leaks out very slowly). I bled the front brakes yesterday, and it was cake! I started on the rears, but had to quit for a dinner engagement. I took photos, and some video. Not sure if I can post video here, but I’ll find out! The reason for the inner tube cap in the first photo, is that I found fluid coming UP in this reservoir while I was bleeding the front brakes. So this “cap” stopped that.
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Looks like I can’t upload video. I can post this to YouTube later if people are interested?

Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-W9qDHLjzw&feature=youtu.be

Clutch bleed. Erica, I did the gravity method, and it appeared to work. But after watching the fluid flow, and change from dirty to clean, I tightened the bleed screw and tried the pedal. Right to the floor. Somehow the gravity method isn’t removing my bubbles. I’m thinking the slow flow isn’t enough to overcome the buoyancy of the trapped air. I’m going to figure out a cap and pressurize it and try again–unless you have a tip for me?

Did you also pump it a couple times slowly? I fully unscrewed and removed the nipple. Maybe that’s why it worked. It allows for a pretty fast, steady flow.

Yes, I did pump the clutch pedal a couple times slowly. I probably had a 3/4 turn loose bleed nipple while I did this. You can see the fluid filling the 2 feet of tube in my photo.
I did refresh the rubber hose connecting the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder so there’s a bunch of air in my system, and that may be the difference with a “standard” gravity flush where exiting fluid simply pulls in new fluid, and air is not a factor. As you mention, I likely need a quicker flow to overcome the buoyancy of the air in my system.
I epoxied a fitting to a surrogate cap tonight, and tomorrow or Friday I will use the Motive pump to pressurize the system and get a faster flow.

So I found a cap that perfectly fit the Clutch Reservoir from a Valvoline brake fluid container. See photo. I drilled a small pilot hole in the center, then drilled it larger (and the bit wandered way off center :frowning:) and then I epoxied an air fitting to it.
When dry I could clamp a length of tubing to this, as well as another air fitting.
The seal was perfect and I could pressurize the reservoir.
This made the fluid flow nicely. My clutch is now perfect :slight_smile:



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The Rear Brakes were tougher than the fronts. I pressured the Front Reservoir, and crawled underneath. The bleed nipples are not as hard to reach as I thought, however I didn’t get any fluid flow after turning the bleed nipple open. After a bit of pumping the brake and scratching my head, I realized the rubber tube was preventing me from opening the bleed screw. It was acting like a spring, and turning the bleed screw backward every time I removed my wrench to turn it forward. Once that was figured out and got the nipple open properly, I still decided to pump the brake pedal to move the fluid, but it was easy. My brakes are now working perfectly. The pedal is very hard.

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