Moving an E-type with stuck rear Brakes

I have my fathers 1966 E-type to move thats been parked for 15 plus years. Front brakes I just loosened the caliper halves. Rear not so easy.
I tried drilling the pad material away to break thinks loose but no luck. I think I need to look at parking brake pads as well. Has anyone moved an E-type on dollies up on a trailer. I would remove dollies after it is loaded.

Also is there a good spot to pull the car up front as I don’t want to damage anything?

You can pull on the lower A arms.

The stuck brakes are gonna be a tuffie: maybe try a long, angled pry bar to lever on the pads.

No but I can’t see why, with care, this wouldn’t work.

As Paul says, attach a soft strap to one of the front wishbones.

Have done it, was a mighty struggle.

Dish soap on the path that the rear wheels will travel helps.

A lunch tray, cardboard and wood, etc to lessen the friction.

Harbor freight dollies.

Brute force and a winch.

We won, but it was an epic battle.

Good results

1 Like

Super happy to see you got the jag (hopefully reading that right since you canceled your parts listing).

Correct. Spoke with my brother again and stressed how important it is for me to have dad’s car.

3 Likes

Love the dush soap idea. Much better than the grease I was thinking of using.

I saw a friend use a huge pair of channel lock plyers to squeeze the pads open.

By chance the car isn’t a coupe in San Francisco is it?

Its a coupe but not in CA

When I bought my car the brakes worked marginally but I found the rear pads to be stuck in the calipers. I was able to remove all 4 rear pistons from the calipers without dropping the IRS. I ground down a cheapo 1/4 inch drive socket to put on a low profile swivel handle to fit between the differential and onto the bolts holding the inboard pistons to the caliper. Might be an option to move the car around without dropping the IRS. Here is my socket and handle…

David
68 E-type FHC

FWIW, when I extracted my EType from the building where it had sat for 25 years, we pushed it on dollies until it was close to the door it was going out. Rear brakes were stuck. Took it off dollies and then started to winch it backward onto a flatbed, figuring the tires would just skid. Once we started to winch it the rear brakes freed up and it rolled freely.

Not saying you’ll have the same result . . .

FYI, I did the same as Scott, I winched out a roadster that had not moved in 30 years…slowly all of the wheels broke loose. Did not try the dish soap idea, but will next time, good luck. Jeff S. Atlanta, GA

When I blew the diff on my XJR it would roll forward but not in reverse, it was dropped off on my drive and had to be moved down the side of the house, this entailed a tight sweeping 90 deg bend on a downhill run. I managed by running a trolley jack under the diff and with a person in the car steering and braking we managed to slowly inch the car down into a position where I could park the car and work on the diff.

Similar to other experiences -
When I went to pick up my dad’s ‘68 the rear brakes were stuck. A slight pull with an ATV through some straps on the rear wishbones (I had to pull it backwards) and the brakes broke free. Be sure the handbrake is released first, of course.

With a slight tug the rear wheels slid a few inches and then the brakes let go. Was way easier than expected.

6 Likes

Excellent! I suspected that might happen. Now the real fun begins.

Another one doesnt bite the dust!

Car looks in great condition for a project.

Nothing makes me happier than when the “easy way” actually works!! Glad you got it rolling…