Before I fix the front half to the back with anything more than tack welds, I decided to work to the rear wing and bootlid alignment as everything is interconnected. I’m 90% certain that I won’t be moving the doors and/or B-posts again, but until that number becomes 100% the tack welds will do.
So, it’s on to replacing the rear 6" or so of each side of the tonneau panel, and the rear panel below the bootlid. This was nudged up into boot aperture by several old parking knocks, and the spare wheel well had rusted out at the base, so I am replacing the boot floor, wheel well and the boot drop-downs, along with a new rear panel and tonneau repair panels from A1XK. Despite the generally rust-free appearance, the two box sections above the chassis at the back hid a fair bit of corrosion so I’ve cut those out and made up new panels for here as well.
One thing - I’ve found it difficult to source the correct gauge steel sheet in the UK. 0.8mm, 1.0mm, 1.2mm etc. are easy but the gauge used by Jaguar is closest to 0.9mm, as measured, making it closest to 20g as sold by Buymetalonline in the UK, at 0.035". It doesn’t sound much, but if you’re trying to let in repairs using butt welds the gauge really needs to be the same.
I have replaced the sills and B-posts complete, but not finally fixed in position yet.
It’s not as press-forward as I would like - this is two years in, and I’m usually trimming a car by now!
Now, who else would have an electronic gemstone gauge?
I should be using a root canal depth gauge!
Actually, you have to watch the suppliers carefully. Several sell thicknesses of sheet that are approximations when you check them with a micrometer. The first lot of 20g I bought was undersize.
ther are supplier problems here too even with the good one the computer system seems to interfere. i have picked up premium alloy sheets that were wrong grade and only spotted because i lifted the top one and looked at factry coding. utility instead of high grade weldabl that i had just paid maximum for… if i was not such a wimpy i would have done a popeye the sailor.
I didn’t think this car was nearly as bad as it turned out to be, underneath an epic amount of filler. After finishing the Healey I was pretty pleased with myself and may have been heard to joke that I could fix anything. This has been sorely tried by the XK, I can tell you.
But I choose to look at it this way - I took it on as a hobby, I’m just getting more hobby than I had planned. I really had no idea that I would end up having to make a boot skin, but needs must as they say.
The next thing, after finishing the boot seal channel, will be to put in the spare tyre tray and boot floor. Then, seeing as the back half is effectively separated, I think I’ll lift it off and put it on a rotisserie. There’s not much more to do ( to the back) but it will be better to get it ‘turnoverable’.
I don’t want to get too far ahead of myself but the vague plan is to then remove the front and mount it on the rotisserie ( it all sounds easy if you say it quickly).
Then reunite the halves on the chassis, effectively joining it around the doors.
When I did the Healey I left the bodywork till last - it was the scary bit. Not now, I am quite enjoying it. Just occasionally, I think I might be starting to get the knack of the tin bashing caper.
Thanks again. Competence may be a long bow to draw though, more like dogged determination.
Yes that is a good way to go. I also restored the 120 in sections like that and used the doors to “join” them, Great work by the way. I also have done 2 Healey’s before this Jag I am currently doing.
Just thought I’d put up a few photos of progress in case anyone is interested.
Boot floor under construction. Only pieces reused were the diagonal brace underneath and the spare retaining bolt.Would have been easier to make a new brace rather than unpick all the spot welds on the original, but you know, keep as much of the original metal as possible…
Cut out the battery boxes. These had been replaced and I must say it would have been difficult to weld the replacements in from underneath.
Previously replaced box:
Reference 660178
fantastic progress, one tip might be if total originality is not the end game is to make the LH battery box slightly wider to accommodate standard 12 volt battery.
Noticing that you have made boot floor if you are planning to fit wire wheels it is slightly higher
What is the chassis number on this car?
You may be able to help me here. My thinking is to get the front guards repaired and then line them up with the cowl on the chassis. Then attach the sills and rear section using the doors to determine alignment. Does that tally with your experience?
That is exactly how I did it. The key is the door fit the rest of the metal you can push around,
but the door is cast in stone. The bottom edge of door and body panels have to have a nice straight
line. Your metal working is extremely good.
Keep up the good work. Gordon
Thanks very much.
Another question if I might?
Does the wire (along the lower edge of the wings) continue through the small panel that joins the two wings (at the lower front of the bonnet)?
Thanks
Garry
Garry The wing edge wire terminates about 1/2 inch past the wing and I tack welded it to the edge of the center piece. The center piece has a double bend in the lower edge to stiffen it. The front wings,bonnet
and center piece have to come together for fit at the same time. I tried to get a picture of it hope this helps.
Gordon
