Did I have a problem !!! not the bearings, but the hubs! ! who said there are no problems, only solutions?
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depends how you define a problem? the 10 ton bolt on ram has removed 100’s of BMW rear hubs, my local main dealer even used to borrow it from me! and the old 60 ton press have never been pushed to more than 15 tons until this, all this gear is at home, god help anyone with just a big hammer and a three leg puller!
A bit more progress, brakes soon! and fitting an Opel Manta B rear roll bar, I started another thread about that. I made up some 8mm spacers for the front callipers as they were a bit tight to the vented discs,
I have been working on mounting the BMW PAS rack and checking for bump steer, I have inverted the upper wishbone mounting and added extra shims for a bit of negative camber that increases on suspension compression, so with the std. manual steering I get about 2mm of toe out on suspension compression, not over the whole range but from “normal” to compressed, with the rack fitted I got about 10mm of toe out, I tried raising the steering arm by putting the track rod end into the top of the steering arm, resting on the top of the taper, I got 30mm of toe out! after a cup of tea I tried dropping the track rod end by 18mm, the max I could and still get the nut on a turn, result… no bump steer at all, none, over the whole range not just the expected normal suspension range, so now looking for some tall track rod ends or rose joints with long bolts and spacers, would rather do that than alter the steering arms, Wheels waiting for powder coat,
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Sooooo I removed the XJ6 oil pan to fit the modified (to clear the PAS rack) Mk2 item, and found something unwelcome in the bottom of the pan…
That was lucky. Best of luck finding a new one that is made correctly, check the bend if you do buy new, some (all?) have a very sharp angle that could fracture over time.
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This one was original, 1985 and something around 89-90,000 miles, it was a London car so I suspect short journeys, rotten as a pear, engine sounded great, just slight top chain noise that I adjusted, a very similar thing happened to my 2002 Ford Transit Mk6 diesel but that punched a hole through the tin timing cover, took me 30 litres of oil to get it home, the front is unlikely to rust any more!
More progress, I have been mounting the XJ6 pas pump, best place was I thought above the alternator, except how do you drive it! I used the old dynamo bracket to mount the alternator, gave me lots of adjustment, made a bracket to mount the PAS pump, not finished in these pictures, will be bracing it, using the XJ6 damper pulley but I machined the fan belt groove to accept the wider PAS size belt, made a new bolt on pulley to take the double V belt to drive the water pump and anternator.
So how do you get the pas belt up to the pump, well I moved the alternator back about 1/2" and then extended the pulley so there is now a gap between the alternator fan and the pulley, that leaves room for the belt to pass through, I have had to recess a couple of the water pump bolts and shave a bit off the ribs on the casting, After fitting the new XJ6 water pump impeller to my new Mk2 pump I found it was a bit deeper so I had to turn it down a bit!
more progress, paint should be finished tomorrow, not ideal conditions for spraying but plenty on there, will get a block down and polish in a few weeks, engine fitting next,
You are moving fast - nice work. It’s a bit late, but the 4.2 Mk10 has an interesting approach to the power steering pump. It’s mounted on the right engine mount bracket - works very well on that car - might be a tad tight on a mk2/240, but the idea is workable. On the left side, the alternator and ac compressor (when fitted) are on the same bracket. On a couple of cars including my 62 mk2, I have mounted an off-the-shelf Delco-Remy alternator by adding a thick metal spacer to the 4 bolts on the left aspect of the water pump and bolting on a C-shaped bracket obtained from Summit Racing for that purpose - works very well, but the alternator is up high. If you are interested, I can send photos; my Mk10 has recently developed enough problems to be pretty much completely apart!
Thanks, at the moment I am very happy with what I have done, but the engine is still out of the car, with the distributor and brake servo the right side is a bit busy, we shall see, I just spotted a rusting XJ6 series two in a drive near my house, well re-spotted as I remember seeing it a good few years ago, might try to blag that for the 4.2 engine, not for fitting now, but if the 3.4 gives trouble…
The paint, 2k, will be getting a good wet sanding and machine polish when it has hardened completely, you cannot get a gun finish in a home workshop,
I did find it easier to wet sand the 2k after about 48hrs window,
it gets very hard after a few days
I agree that was what we did at my bodyshop before I retired, well we had an oven, but we did polish quite soon after painting, with the oven we did not need to polish that much, but the guy who squirted the paint onto my Jag has his own ideas, and he will be polishing it! I have dusted off my spray guns but it is 15-20 years since I painted anything myself, I was the boss!
well at work, not at home!
I have a question, the bonnet (hood) has slots where the centre moulding clips fit, I have no idea what was there before as the previous owner used that moulding to clear a blocked house drain! the SNG clip kit has some square clips that must be pop riveted on, into a slot???
Is my 1968 20 bonnet different to earlier ones? am I being stupid? or…
No the trim has clips that slide into the trim with two legs that enter the slots then get spread apart.
Had 24 of them in the clip set, used them for the side mouldings, they go into round holes, the centre trim area on the bonnet has aprox. 3/4" long 1/8" wide slots, those would not fit through the slot,
That is the clip I need!