My new 1964 Mark X

Hello saloon list! Excited to join you all here (will still be around on the XJ-S list too though of course)! I just purchased a 1964 Mark X (3.8L). It’s admittedly quite rough but that’s the fun of it–I’m looking forward to getting it all fixed up myself, especially with so much time around the house for the forseeable future.

Over the past 2 weeks since I got the car, I rebuilt the ignition system and distributor and cleaned up the carbs. And, after a number of checks and tests and fluids, got the 3.8L running last night! Its last registration sticker was '95 so this may well be its first run this millennium.

Anyhow, will look forward to asking questions and sharing my progress with it with you all!

-Douglas

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Well done. I love these cars. Bought my first G in 1988, and have added another 3. They are not very popular and hence not so expensive, as you know by now.
When all is well set up they handle much better than the small saloons. You sit in the car rather than on it.
What colour is it?

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I’ve loved the lines of the big saloon for a long time but have not had the pleasure of driving one yet. That will change soon enough!

Mine came from the factory in opalescent golden sand. It has its original paint (or what’s left of it) on the car. I think a full respray is the only long term option. Any tips on the best sources for the paint? I have found heaps of reference numbers for the color but not any recent post on who/where to order it from?

I think I will respray in the original golden sand as it is very nice color. Though I am tempted by a maroon or black Mark X so will consider those colors too. This car’s value is low enough now that I don’t feel a need to stay original necessarily.

Golden Sand was a popular color back in the 1960’s, it was also used on Mark 2’s S Types, and 420’s as well. From the looks of the photo you posted, the color has faded enough to look like ‘Ascot Fawn’ or ‘cirrus grey’, both attractive colors for the 420 G. What color is the interior, and what is its condition? I’m sure you’ll enjoy restoring this beautiful car.

its a good idea to do a comprehensive check for rust in these cars

critical or common areas to check;

each wheel lip (your front left behind shows a patch has been made)

sills, behind rear wheel, front floors, fuel filler wells, windscreen surrounds

It is especially important to remove the heater box/fan assembly at some point, as devastating corrosion can be under there

front and rear valance, underside of main cross beam lower bonnet

lower doors, lower rear quarter panel

its hard to get any replacement metal for these cars, so hopefully your car doesnt have too much rust, mind looked very good when I got it, but its whole life has been coastal, and I have had the welding gun out quite a lot over the years, still more to do

There is a 1966 MX 10 in Arizona for sale cheap with best offers being considered:

Gerard

I was fairly surprised to learn it was once golden sand too! I say that it was once that on the authority of Jaguar Heritage Trust who looked it up in the build ledger for me (only a £5 service)! The rear bumper came with the car but off it as the rubber mounts failed (apparently these saloons used more or less the same engine mounts and bumper mounts so I intend to remount it with readily available and cheap engine mounts part no. C18556). Upon closer inspection of the paint that was hiding behind where the rear bumper sat, I find the golden sand claim very believable. Some shade of gray was definitely my first guess too though.

The interior is a light brown color. The backseat is in good shape and the backs of the front seats are too. The cushions of both front seats are in bad shape though. For now some similarly colored leather tape hides the cracks and tears well enough but long term replacement is really the only option. This was a long time South Carolina car so the wood veneer (like the paint) suffered from being in the hot sun.

Tony,

Thanks for these tips. Very helpful and I shall inspect all of these areas with special attention. So far the only bad rust I’ve found is in the driver’s floor (LHD). This appears to have come from the driver’s window being stuck open an inch or so allowing water to flow in and sit on the floor. The rest of the car seems quite dry. and the rust is limited largely to the surface (from what I’ve seen thus far).

I’m sure that rust here and there will nag me forever to come with this one–I will just try to keep it in check as best I can!

Amazing how cheap these cars are even those that are fairly complete! And in my opinion, the Mark X/420G is the quintessential Jag. Almost every other saloon for the next 50 odd years took at least some of its styling cues from it!

Someone on this list has to grab this deal. Prolly cost $1000 to ship it anywhere in the USA.

Gerard

The absolute best spot for original color…open the boot lid…you will see the 2 x lower outer lock mechanisms have a metal cover held on by a few screws…remove these screws and the inside cover and inside bonnet area will be exact body color, as they left the factory

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Enjoy your new project. The Mark X is a great car.

Mine was originally Golden Sand. She is now black.

Here is the original owners:


A restored interior is like nothing else:

Reunited with her car after 40 years


Micah

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Great photos. Thank you very much for sharing.
Reunited after 40 years? Wow. I’m sure there’s a great story behind that.
Looks superb in black.
One rarely sees an interior to that standard. Out of this world…whew.
Take care

Let me just add that while I have XKs and E-types as well, I find the Mk10 gives me the most pleasure. I love my Mk9 as well, and my fatherś old S-type, where this hobby began, back in 1984.
Good luck with your car.

What a gorgeous car! The Mk 10 really pops in black!

For anyone interested in my project, work continues! New tires are now on and I’ve pulled the triple carbs to rebuild them. Hoping to get them back on the car in a week or so. I did get it running before pulling them but the middle carb was leaking fuel badly out the diaphragm so I’m sure the others weren’t far behind!

Need to tackle the clogged metal fuel line next. It’s probably possible to clear it but I might just run some new metal line that I can be a bit more confident about its overall condition.

Greetings All,

Came close to buying one but, at the time, the rear under carriage dog leg support that is on each side of the differential were perforated.

Back then, I did little fabricating and I did not see any repair part for this item.

These are sweet rides, though visually a little different, the ride makes up for it plus, it will always draw attention.