When I received the shift solenoid this was the readings chart they gave me with the solenoid
I also tested these to verify and they’re all true
So MV5 was the problem for you?
That’s what I thought at first because of the low resistance(5 ohms) when I first tested it but come to find out that’s correct and I ordered the wrong part. Mv1 and mv2 are both below spec at 25 ohms. So I had originally ordered that solenoid and tried to put it where mv5 was thinking that was the bad solenoid and mixed everything up…… so nowwwww that it’s all cleared up I need mv1 and 2 which those are the correct solenoids if you order them off of rock auto: if you need mv3 order it from that transparts website you sent me to, if mv 5 I would contact erikkson industries. If you need specific parts number let me know and I can provide them since I’ll still have the valve body out. The numbers in that diagram are different than what is in my valve body.
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You have really done a ton of excellent work demystifying this transmission! Thank you for coming back to update the forum. It will undoubtedly help people in the future.
I’m going to troubleshoot my valve body and see what readings I come up with now!
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Glad I can help provide some needed info for others. I’ve learned some good valuable information thru this forum as well and it only seemed fit that I should also give back to this community as it’s helped myself immensely. On that note. Have you yourself had an oil leak from behind the motor? I had one bad enough to where it was dripping onto the exhaust and went through here and checked some videos and came up with a leaky valve cover gasket and that fixed that leak but I think there may be another and it’s hard to see behind the motor up top or underneath.
Yes, I have had a leak before where oil was coming through the back of the engine…through the gasket, smoked up the exhaust something fierce when I was on the highway. I was convinced something really bad happened…and then it turned out to be nothing really. Gasket? No problem. Added some oil and was back on the highway in no time.
I HAVE read about another leak source. I hope it isn’t that. I would make absolutely sure it’s not coming from the more common points at the oil pressure sender and oil pressure sensor. Much easier to fix and much more common. But here below is that other one.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-xj6-xjr6-x300-26/leaking-starter-fluid-231609/
Cross referencing your chart with the pin out of the 9 pin round connector, I cannot figure out what “Terminal 6” is, which is needed to check the continuity for each solenoid.
Can you tell me where you took the readings from?
Off the car, in a bin, if I touch my multimeter to the disconnected pins on the now accessible pins on the attached solenoids,
MV1 is at 27.5 ohms
MV2 is at 27.0 ohms.
MV3 is at 34. ohms
MV5 is at 5.5 ohms
Speed Sensor is 334.0 ohms at 68F (I connected the two brown wired pins at the harness connector)
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While not “Jaguar” specific, this PDF may be useful:
(PDF too big to upload here but here’s the source:)
(From the Jag Svc Manual)
ZF Service Manual.pdf (2.6 MB)
Jaguar - Powertrain, A T Service Manual jhm 1145.pdf (1.8 MB)
~Paul K.
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Thank you for that. Pin M = Terminal 6 then.
Worked out because I got to the same readings again.
Thanks.
So…do I have two bad solenoids? Both MV1 and MV2 are showing low?
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IDK, they’re REALLY close to being in-spec range so…
~Paul K.
I would say so because my trans went into limp mode showed codes for both shift solenoids and those were the only ones below spec or out of range though they were only 25 ohms when they should’ve been 30 . Other than that there’s no reason mine should have gone into limp mode and throwing those codes.
I only got a code for one of the solenoids being bad when I replaced the valve body.
Now I guess I have to find TWO replacement solenoids before I can ever reuse this thing.
Oh. And when removing the harnesses from the solenoids, I snapped off two of the plastic catches, so those will be replaced as well…
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The shift solenoids that I have to get that actually match you can just splice into the harness you won’t need the clips. And they tell you there is no diode so there is no negative and positive.
I just ordered two off of rockauto for $82/ea or they have a whole kit for close to 500 but I’m not sure if that pressure regulator one they have in their kit will match. I got the one thru ZF and it was almost $300 and delivered from Germany 
I found a few links that have also helped greatly:
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Oh also I only got one code for primary but when it went into limp mode it kicked out the code for the second and I was reading that it does that specifically for the car to go into limp mode but I was lost as to why if that is the case then why both solenoids when I tested them were below spec. I cant imagine both died at the same time. But also I drove the car around with a scan tool plugged in and would cancel the codes and would drive and shift fine until the code tripped again.
So thothe paperwork says it doesn’t matter which you wire in which way. I still went and wired them in the way that I feel they should in sync, maybe it’s just the adhd:man_shrugging:, eitherrrrrr way hopefully this is it 
Edit: the short red wire is the purple jumper wire that runs from s#1-s#2, just when I cut it it was too short and had to add some wire in.
