I could see the need for the battery in the boot with the V12 
Well, I’m trying to pull the starter now. Bottom bolt, no problem, other bolt… wtf!! I can’t find it!!
Now I’m coming over the passenger side engine bay with a 2x10 laying across the hood support and top of the engine! I still can’t see this bolt!!!
I suspect it is directly under the solenoid…right where my old butt can’t get to it.
go kid goooooooo
gtjoey1314
The top bolt is put in from the transmission side and is hidden by insulation. If you remove the windshield wiper motor and dig the insulation away around the trans tunnel in the area of the bolt it is possible (not easy though) to get some kind of wrench 
on the head and back it out.
Either what Larry said or from underneath with about 3 ft of extensions and wobbly joints, it helps to lower the trans mount as well but go from the top first. You might need to get a set of loooong ring spanners to undo the bolt, the are tight!
Ok, after almost taking the tip of pinky finger off Friday morning, I’m pretty bummed. Anyhow, got bored from too much resting and decided to stroll out and check compression on the cylinder closest to the firewall. No compression when cranking, needle barely moved 1-2 psi.
Is it possible when the serpentine belt broke the timing jumped? How do I check/correct or am I looking for a new engine??
It still turns but it turns over but doesn’t sound like car that wants to start.
Has anyone ever heard of cylinder wash? I’m wondering aloud if that could be the issue…
For absolutely no compression? No, not likely.
You might want to take the valve covers of, I hope you can see something.
So, I pulled all the spark plugs, checked compression, basically zero. Tried the oil in the cylinder truck, no change. Threw a pencil in the cylinder to verify the crank is turning the pistons, it is.
So, engine is not seized on the bottom end, just no compression. Blown head gasket??
Sean, as David J suggested remove the cam cover and check to see if the camshafts are rotating as the engine is cranked. If they are not and the valves are open you will get no compression.
1 Like
Things I have checked:
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Zero compression in any cylinder with all plugs pulled and cranked
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I have spark
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Tachometer only reads about 100 rpm when cranked
4, Removed valve cover, verified both cams rotating when cranked
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Battery is good.
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I smell fuel
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About to take car to junkyard.
Did I get it all???
The next step would be checking to see if the cams and distributor are in sync with the crankshaft. With the cam cover off and the spark plugs out rotate the engine (clockwise as you are standing at the front of the car facing the engine) using a socket on the big nut on the harmonic balancer until the timing mark (triangle) on the toothed timing ring aligns with the pointer - this is top dead center for the #1 piston. Then check to see if the notches in the two camshafts are pointing ‘straight up’ (perpindicular to the plane of the head). Pop the distributor cap off (two clips) and check to make sure the rotor is pointing at the notch in the edge of the distributor body. Grooveman recently replaced a blown head gasket and there is some relevant discussion and pictures that will better explain all of this in this thread: Water in the oil 1989 XJ40.... ouch!.
For 350 dollars you can say you owned a Jaguar VDP!
Follow others advise
Pull the cover off
See if the chain isn’t broken
Stop cranking it this will only bend more stuff
Ummmmm it was in the junk yard for what?
Gtjoey13-4
If it looks bad pull the leader and grill off
Boot it to the wall and call it a day!
Well I just don’t give that easy boys!!
Distributer appear to be 180 degrees off?? Number 6 wire is pointing at the number one cylinder and it’s at TDC.
Distributer rotor is 180 facing the wrong way. # 1 on the cap is facing completely away from the #1 cylinder at TDC.
Is is as simple as moving the distributer 180??
It’s at TDC, no notches on the cams visible at all. Distributer appears to be 180• out, everything is facing the wrong way!!
Ok!! TDC, cams align when I turn the crank another full turn. Distributer rotor now pointing the correct way, cap was on backwards.
I doubt this actually will fix anything however, not sure where to go from here 
Sounds like you have a burnt valve on the zero compression cylinder.
A leak down test will tell if thats the case. And as has been pointed out theses are a chain driven engine so no serpentine belt inside.
Rather concerning that you have essentially no compression in all cylinders. BTW, are you sure your compression tester is working? If so, indications are bent or broken valves in all the cylinders which would seem unlikely unless the cams have been out of sync at some point. Are you sure the cams still have lobes on them? 
Off with its head! Might be the only way to see what is going on with the valves.