New Aux Fan source

Does anyone know if there is a new auxiliary fan available that bolts right in as a replacement? Mine is running weak and the bearings are shot. It’s my daily driver too so I can’t get into a big drawn out ‘make it fit and work’ scenario. Or does anyone know if there are replacement parts available for the stock fan?

Ptipon
Sonora/CA, 90 XJS-V12 conv, United States

Get in touch with John John, one of our listers. He has available fans and a custom made “spider” that will work as a bolt-in replacement. (You should add a relay, though)

I have a number of OEM aux. fans. One from my 88 that was removed to make way for electric fans.

smartest thing to do is buy aftermarket fan with more power than original (will be less expensive too), and use John John’s adapter plate. I can’t remember which brand his adapter plate is for.

I made my own adapter plate for a Spal fan. Works fine, not as pretty as John Johns. (And I think his adapter won’t work for Spal)

Dave, why add a relay?

I’m looking at a 200cfm fan from American-volt. It’s under $50. Should be able to rip out the old mounting adaptor and use there method of securing with straps that go all the way thru the radiator and air conditioning radiator too. Yes, it may not look factory or as neat as possible but it’s simple, easy and fast.

I sent a message to John John last night and I’m waiting for his response.

Thanks. I have come to the conclusion that new/replacement rather than OEM is the best way to go.

I have the later 6.0L aux fan, which is better than the original. It works well, but may be difficult to source new or second hand.

Seems like most people will replace the OE fan with something more powerful, which uses more current. The existing wiring , I think, would be inadequate for the new fan, and the new fan would run better if it were fed with heavier wiring and an appropriate relay. (Fused, of course)

Hi,
I didn’t get your message for some reason but yes I do have upgraded fans. Here are few pictures:



Securing the fan with straps thru the rad. and condenser - you might want to reconsider that idea, IMHO. Might wind up being “expensive.”

This is a test! I sent a PM,knowing you were on the forum. Are you not receiving PM’s?

that may explain why my new aux fan sometimes blows the fuse. I went up 5A to fix it.

I should probably rewire with a relay then! :slight_smile:

Got your message Dave :wink: reg. relay, yes that is highly recommended for a new fan. I replaced original relay with more powerful new relay and upgraded wiring as well.

Hi John,

Need P&D and any mechanical dwgs you may have for the mounting apparatus. Here’s the fan that is on the top of my list

Here is their mounting recomendation
Screen Shot 2020-06-25 at 1.01.46 PM

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The manual shows 10A but my fuse was 15A and I have never changed it.

I think part of the reason my fan was suddenly blowing the 10A fuse (after working fine last summer), I spilt some coolant on it late last year. Then this spring when the fan started turning for the first time in 6 months, it must have required a lot of amps to get going. (I realized this when I found it hard to turn by hand after it blew the fuse.

So I powered 12V directly to it, and after 15 seconds, it started spinning really fast again. I guess it worked out the crud from the coolant.

John, anybody…. Using the attached picture from John, besides the two big tabs at the top and bottom, are there anymore attachment points on this panel that hold it in place.

Screen Shot 2020-06-25 at 4.42.02 PM.png

Rotate that picture 90 degrees clockwise. The bypass panels (black foam) go at the bottom. That panel then also attaches to the shroud around the engine driven fan

OK, here ya go. I presume you mean those three holes I have located. I can see that top one looking under the hood. Great! That means I don’t have to take the whole shroud apart. Just loosen things up a bit and this panel can slide right out. That should be less than a days job.

Thanks Jim

Anybody have one of these shrouds they want to off-load? I can then modify and get this ready to install, all on the bench. That’ll take the replacement to less than 4hrs. I could even ‘bench’ test verify and validate it first.

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