New car, new member - a few questions

Thank you, everyone, for the generous time.

David L - okay, that makes sense. Well, frankly, if not rusted and depending on what ‘fully restored’ means in this owner’s mind (which receipts can demonstrate objectively), potentially a good car for my purposes–to drive, not to show.

Very useful to learn they’re motivated. $21,000 down in 3~4 months means they may well take considerably less. Presumably the Dad and owner passed away and she inherited the car. I see that a set of three SUs is several thousand dollars.

David B - thanks for the suggestion. I will scroll through a bit and see what I can find.

Whoa… that is short in the FHC. Well, as I’ve said, I owned a '67 MG Midget for quite a while and one of the bows for the convertible top was right above my noggin. No problem unless I went over a really big speed hump far too fast. I’m feeling like a 2+2 should be fine, and I would think downright roomy after the Midget…

For sure I’d fly out there. No way I’m buying one of these sight unseen. My suitcase would have a magnet to check for bondo, for sure.

Note: a guy named Ben Guevara contacted me in response to my query through Auto Trader. But the website said it would be the seller contacting me. Now that I know it’s a woman who’s inherited her father’s car, I wonder if he bought it from her on the cheap and is trying to turn it over. We do have a two-state situation for some reason…

So, someone help me with a little speculation based on experience: what is the ‘screaming deal’ price for this car? Seems like $65K is still a little rich for a car with a non-original engine, carbs, and possibly other stuff. I’m thinking maybe $50K at most?

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Well, this is interesting. An adjacent, slightly earlier car on XKE Data, 1E77146, also has the dual Strombergs. Though those could be an add-on, too…?

That aside, it’s a far cleaner car–immaculate, really–which has had a ton of upscale upholstery and paint work done. It is more like what I think of when I hear a ‘fully restored’ car.

I’m with David L in that the yellow one looks like it was (possibly) well looked after by her Dad but used regularly.

Well, I made him an offer contingent on a PPI, but he wasn’t interested.

I think frankly that given the outcome of numerous auctions on BAT and elsewhere recently, the values of E-Types seem to be going down or about to descend–excepting the highly sought-after Series 1 FHCs and Roadsters in outstanding condition, of course.

I have a couple of feelers out on an ongoing basis, and given my modest resources and ideal car–rust-free monocoque but aesthetics and mechanical condition secondary–I’m going to keep my powder dry and bide my time.

“Time is on my side (yes it is!)…”

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Perfect: anytime someone refuses a PPI, walking away is the best option.

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5500 is the never exceed, 5000 is the redline, 4500 continuous. If above 4500, occasionally release the throttle and let the engine overrun for a few seconds.
80 mph is nothing. It can sit at 4000 all day, people are worried that the long stroke design is problematic but it definitely isn’t suffering. I keep it between 3500-4000 which in my case is 140 kph (85 mph) which is why my XJ will get some form of longer gearing.

I ran low on oil with an oil burner 4.2 going 80 mph, low enough that the oil pressure light was on, several times. Oil pressure remained the same until I sold it. The E Type has a tiny fuel tank so you just check and if it likes oil fill up at the station. My cutting current engine loses more oil than it burns and sometimes I check. It’s not a big deal.

I‘m surprised that there are owners who keep their E Types below 70. 70!!

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So, I got a call this morning followed by an email (I missed the call), and although I’ve pretty much made up my mind to look for a rust-free car that needs mechanical work that I can pick up cheap given my modest means, I wanted to alert others who might be in the market that this yellow car could likely be had for “the high $40s” whatever that means. I suppose it could mean he’s getting desperate and might take low $40s, but who knows?

To be fair, it could be I misunderstood, and that the PPI would be accepted given his sudden flexibility re: the price, but at this point I need to be realistic about what I can afford–and what I want to pay for a 2+2. Also (gosh darn it), I really want to sit in a FHC at least once before I buy. What if I fit?

Ah, well. Where’s the fire? I believe prices will continue to diminish, though I have no data to back that up. Just a feeling.

Have you looked at dyler.com? Looks like there’s a few there. Hope a local forum member can help you out with a seat tryout. They can always meet up with you at a police station if concerned about safety.
Things happen for a reason. I learned early on that what happened was supposed to, and I just needed to be patient to see why that was. Happened TOO many times for it to be coincidence. Your E is out there, just be ready for it!

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Well in this country, anything above 75 mph and I will loose my licence (again) but while in Germany and on the Autobahn I try to keep my E-type between 120 mph and 140 mph. :sunglasses:

The XJ6C which is manual +O/D I try to keep between 100 mph and 120 mph, like you wrote at 4.000rpm the 4.2 is happy all day long. :smiley:

Cheers!

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The cheapest way to make high speed cruising more relaxed is to swap the diff for a 2.88 , as fitted to some XJ-S models , it restores the gearing to nearly the same as the early cars . Fuel consumption is a lot better as well - 28 mpg possible ( with a light foot :checkered_flag:) .

For me the E-Type is a car for leisure and pleasure.
I use it mostly on smaller country roads where a 2.88 would be useless.
3.31 is plenty there!

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If you’re still looking, I stumbled onto this 69 2+2 4-speed just north of Denver

Ad says it’s been for sale for 33 weeks and shows a price drop. May indicate a motivated seller looking to move the car

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…and I’d be happy to offer PPI services!

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Valerie - thanks for the suggestion. It would be great if a local forum member would let me sit in their FHC, to see if I can fit. The local club wouldn’t deign to talk to me (I identified myself as an officer of the court, ex-prosecutor, happy to meet at a group event, etc… nada.)

Yeah, I’m with you: I’m just going to wait and see whether the right car pops up.

Pekka - agreed, it’s hard to understand why one would buy an E-type and then drive it like a Yugo on life support…

Mark & Serge - I think, if I understand the rear end ratios and resulting rpms correctly, 3.31 would be just fine for my usual drives.

Craig - Thank you for this, as the price point is more like what I could afford. But I’m really interested in a 1.5. I just love that early dash and smaller air intake up front, the smaller taillights above the bumper, etc.

Paul - Thank you for the offer. If within a one-state circumference, I’d happily pack a bag and fly out to examine it, then drive back. What fun!

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STILL for sale.

Which one…?

This’un!

Oh, yeah thank you… well, as I said above, depending on how motivated he was, I might be able to afford it. But the counterbalance is that I’m really crazy for a 1.5 car, with the early dash, smaller air intake up front, and those smaller, sexy taillights above the bumper.

… if I werent heading for an RV life… this car ticks many of the boxes, for me, for another XKE.

Think I’ll go lay down, till the feeling passes.

:wink:

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That would be a Series 1, wouldn’t it?

Which could be up until early 67 (cars before melding in the 1.5 changes)?

Yes, Series 1 with open headlights, sometimes called a Series 1.25 :grin: