I’m not weighing in on the source of the problem ('tho I might have a slightly uninformed opinion)
But if we’re looking at hydraulics don’t forget the possibility of a hose with internal restriction. A hose that flows under m/c pressure but doesn’t return fluid will allow extra long extension of the slave.
Bon chance, Alan
Thank you for the feedback. Freeplay is about 1 1/2 inches to 1 3/4 inches.
Randy,
Two years ago I replaced the clutch on my '63 E-Type with a new one I bought from SNG Barratts in NH.
When adjusted properly with one sixteenth of an inch freeplay, a horrible screeching noise would come from it when the pedal was fully depressed.
Turns out there was a batch of bad pressure plates that were misadjusted and created this problem. See the contact marks on the attached pictures.
SNG was aware of it.
They Kindly replaced the 3 items (Bearing, disk and pressure plate), paid for shipping, and gave me a small credit for labor involved in doing the re & re.
I’m quite sure this is exactly what you have, and you just can’t get enough stroke to disengage without getting this grinding noise.
I hope this helps.
John G.
If I recall correctly,
The pressure plate arms would push in too far, rubbing against the disk spring beds, sometimes engaging them in a locked up fashion (which would explain what your symptoms).
John G.
I think you should cut the freeplay back to a half inch.
I suggest you cut free play back to a half inch.
The graphite bearing will still not be touching the diaphragm assembly so there is no danger to wear the throwout bearing
Dennis
By the way, another measurement to make is the distance the pedal actually travels to get to the floor when you press it to the floor. From memory it should be about 9 inches. If your clutch master cylinder clevis pin is heavily worn, this distance will be shorter than it should be and the diaphragm will not pressed as much and this means the clutch will not disengage as much
Randy, you seem to have an unusual symptom, and lots of good suggestions. It would appear that your problem, which has temperature related symptoms, should have a temperature related cause, such as hydraualic or trans fluid. But maybe the temperature is just an aggravation of a cause.
Either way, if you have not already done so, I suggest tracking down the part numbers of the clutch disk, pressure plate and TOB and try to determine if they are indeed correct for your car, or if they are similar to the problem ones in John’s post. IMO, the noise you have is clearly a concern. And John’s post confirms that parts issues can exist. I also agree the fact that you can pump up the pedal is a concern and it appears you have too much free play,
Tom
My E-type is the only car I have ever owned with Hydraulic clutch so I do not have much experience with them. Fortunately only problem I have had is one “blown” slave cyl which was not much trouble to replace. What are the symptoms if the rubber flex line portion develops a internal restriction like can be fairly common with the brake flex lines ? As Alan mentions could it be at least part of Randy’s problem ? That flex line looks like would be difficult to change with engine in place.
David
68 E-type FHC
I would caution against measuring free play at the pedal, rather than at the slave cylinder. Jaguar specified 1/16" free play at the slave. If you measure it at the pedal any slop in the system (e.g. due to an oval hole in the clevis) gets included in the free play, and you run the risk of having insufficient play where it matters - i.e. at the slave.
