New Guy Looking at buying a 1960 Mark II

That looks like a very complete car. When you change the fluids, don’t forget the oil in the air cleaner.

That’s the same set up as my old ‘S’ and I don’t recall it being an oil bath.

The S Type didn’t have the trunking into the inner guard where the air cleaner proper resides. This an early Mk2, plain covering on the centre panel. Wonder if it has recessed sunvisors. Looks like a good starting point for a beginning JL. Good score.

I think you did very well on the purchase ! Congratulations ! The car seems all there and in a very desirable color combination ( at least in my opinion) so at that price you really have a very decent start on your adventure / new hobby. I don’t think it would hurt to take off the tops and look in the float bowels. Also might suggest fresh gas. The condition of the spark plugs may also help steer your thinking. These XK engines are apparently quite remarkable as I’ve seen some old neglected / abandoned ones on Youtube fire up after just a little fiddling. This link may be able to get you to an online service manual if you don’t have one: Contact: Classic Jaguar S type.
Schmitty

Sorry to disagree, from my Spare parts catalogue:

Robin, an old “S” is a lot newer than this old “MK2”. I believe the owner will learn that his 1960 MK2 has the same oil bath air cleaner under the left fender as my 1959 MK1. The black thing on top of the head is an air silencer. You can tell the difference between it and a paper element air cleaner by the fact that the silencer is a sealed unit. Your air filter has snaps on the end which allow you to open it and replace the element, as shown in your illustration. His second picture shows that there are no snaps on his air silencer.

Good point Mike, I hadn’t noticed the lack of clips. Just goes to show a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.

Looks like you did well for $9k. Welcome to the Mk2 club! Regarding the air filter, maybe that’s original? If not and you want one of the pancake filters that sits on top of the engine (which is what my ‘62 had) I have a nice one I could offer up.

Lots of good advice on this site. I’m on year 6 of a mostly DIY restoration. Hope to have mine back on the road by 2024!

Tom

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I stand corrected Robin, my apologies. My '66 S didn’t have the hose, nor a hole in the guard as far as I recall, so maybe the setup illustrated was superceded at some stage. What year is your parts catalogue? Saloondata.com shows both setups, although not clearly enough to see the inner guard.

That’s alright, I was incorrect as well as pointed out by Mike.
My ‘S’ is 3.4 1965 and there isn’t a hole in the engine bay for the hose, I think it might point forward towards the radiator.

Thanks for the Link to the Manuals, I don’t know if the car comes with anything other than the owners manual. I learned a few things just browsing the service manuals.
OldJagNut - no worries on the air filter, I also did not know the early Mark 2’s came with an oil bath aircleaner until I looked at this car. I know it will be quite a bit of work to getting it running and stopping. Hopefully by the end of next summer. I know it needs a complete exhaust system, along with front and rear brakes, and the tires are over 30 years old so only good enough to roll around the shop for now.

Thanks all for the kind words, it is located about 3 hours away from me so it will be a couple of weeks before I can complete the deal. We have always wanted a Mark 2, I am both exited and a little dreading this purchase. I just finished waking up a 1967 Pontiac Firebird Sprint this summer after it sat for over 20 years, so I have some idea of what it takes to revive a long sleeping OHC6 powered classic.

The journey begineth…:wink:

Probably no need to say this but when you do your welding, cut deep.

It will probably make the job more difficult and perhaps more expensive but if you don’t, the rust you’ve left behind will continue to do it’s nasty work, and be more difficult to get to eventually because it will be behind good strong stuff.

It’s a lesson I learned the hard way many years ago… :grinning:

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There’s nothing you can’t learn to do if you WANT but my 2 cents
Get it started first, it will stop just fine on its own lol
Worry about the exhaust when you actually need it :grinning:
Before you dive to deep spend some time learning about the car ,your skill set , real costs ,resolve etc
You may decide with your new found knowledge that it’s better to sell and buy a better one
Just saying
Cheers

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Words to be well-heeded!

Yes but be careful not to bend valves if it sat for 25 years

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Jagjim1 - Thanks for the advise, I will keep it in mind.

davidsxj6 - I hope it will not be an issue, the engine does turn over easily by hand with the plugs removed. So I hope the valves will not be stuck, I know turning it over by hand does not prove 1 or more valves are not stuck open. But I first have to install the cleaned and sealed gas tank, Blow out or replace the Fuel Lines, and check and clean the fuel bowls. Quite a bit of work to do before trying to start it.

It doesn’t, but if one was, you’d feel a ‘clunk’ while turning.

Next, pull the plugs, squirt in a half ounce of any thin oil, then crank it, THEN take s compression test.

Just a couple thoughts. Not sure if you have, but I’d suggest removing the cam covers and turn the engine over by hand to make sure that everything is moving as it should and there isn’t a valve that is stuck. Once that is determined and prior to actually putting power to start the engine I will disconnect the coil and turn the engine on the starter to build up oil pressure (making sure oil gets to the top).

I wish you luck and hope you aren’t disappointed later. I just bought a '62 Mk II a few months that was in storage for 20 years and was running when parked. I now have the motor completely apart along with many other issues to repair. Your gas tank will most likely be rusted. My tank has baffles in it that make a clean and reseal risky. If you don’t get the sealer applied completely it might start peeling off and plug up a filter or your fuel pump. I think a new tank from Moss is about $750. Some parts are reasonable, and some seem very expensive. Good luck.