I want to drive it the way it looks!
New here, first post, trying to learn as much as I can about this beautiful old machine… thanks in advance for help, patience, and guidance!
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Welcome to the cat-munity!
On this forum, you will find an answer to any question you have about that beautiful cat, and just remember, there are no stupid questions, only dumb mistakes.
Which all of us have made… 
Where in the world is Matt?
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Looks like a Black Plate CA car.
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Certainly looks like a black CA plate: that may or may not be where it is.
I try not to assume.
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Welcome to the forum, Matt. Tell us a little about the car, especially its mechanical condition.
john
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someone will soon ask you about the numbers on the plate, and whether the engine is the original one
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Not the Matt with the porche by any chance. Nothing wrong with patina, shows a bit of the life of the car.
More photos please. Hang around and search past posts and you can learn basically every nut and bolt on that car
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welcome to this forum. ask here, use the magnify to look thru the archive discussions …type a key word, refine search to the XK group. any topic. How and what you do with your car depends a lot on condition, what has already been done by prior owners that is verifiable. Safety and do no harm are first priorities- brakes OK? brake fluid topped up-no brake fluid leaks, tires no older than 8 years, no fuel leaks, (carry a Halotron fire extinguisher (2 of em), is oil pressure ok at 40psi when warm at 2,000 rpm, tail stop lights work? horn works loud enough? Then: does it run on a normal temp day at around 75 to 85C on the temp gauge (normal) coolant OK–if unsure-refresh–anti-freeze 60%–distilled water 40%, one bottle of coolant anti-rust-waterpump lube, does it start up OK–cold and hot. Does it run ok…decent power, not missing , spitting. Does it show charging ok. Run with clean good engine oil, 30 wt in gearbox, check diff level–best to drain and refil so all the same–75-90. light oil in the carb dashpot-to just below the neck (the brass top plug), Steering not loose and driving tracks ok–not shimmy or wander.
Go drive. Is that your car in the pic , is it recent…and yes, what are all the numbers on the data plate–firewall. What is the number on the engine , right side on the flat above the oil filter, what is the number inside the front of the spark plug valley. Those numbers will help ID the car and what equipment it may have for the year of manufacture. Some clues as to prior parts swaps.
Nick
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(Welcome, Matt … of course.)
You may find our little international community sometimes tends toward eccentricity and off beat humour (or humor, as it’s misspelled in the US)
I’ve had my XK120 back on the road for a month, after something like 52 years off, and have so far put a grand total of 62 miles on the odometer while I work out the bugs and tune handling and performance. Longest run so far, yesterday, 11 miles. And while I have owned this car for almost 31 years it is the first, and only, XK120 I’ve ever driven. The most salient observation so far is this is not like any other car I’ve piloted. Nothing, it seems, is made easy. Steering effort is high, your left leg gets a good workout from the mechanical clutch and you almost have to stand on the brakes to bring it to a standstill from speed. Driving this car, unlike almost everything else on the road, requires some physical strength and additional concentration. It has been and continues to be a learning experience, almost like learning to drive all over again.
It’s a real blast. I haven’t had so much fun in a long time.
I found this recent post to be really insightful.
(And, once again, welcome to what is probably the best Jaguar site on the net, Matt. The knowledge base in here is formidable and the minions are friendly and helpful.)
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Yep. THAT’s a 120/140/150!
Except, the brakes were better on the 150…
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Hmmm. Did I really say “right leg”. I meant the other right leg …
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I just thought that since you were a Canuck, you installed all the pedals wrong…
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XK creature comfort: for tall drivers…which in 1950s UK meant over 5 ft 8 in…shorter brake and clutch pedal rods help a lot…and are actually better for anyone less altitude challenged as well. Also for those same, a smaller diameter steering wheel, closer to dash adds some space if ok with not as original…something like a Moto Lita or Nardi.
Nick
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Hello all and thank you for the warm and inviting messages! Appreciated.
I bought this XK from an estate and the family had owned it since the 1960’s when they were a “gear head” hippie couple attending UC Berkeley University.
They bought it from a gentleman that had been racing it… After they bought it and couldn’t afford automotive paint and owner worked at a commercial paint supplier so it was painted commercial gold.
The non matching engine is an “S” and when it’s running sounds amazing through an old school dual pipe set up. The chassis appears to have been painted red at some point… This car has a lot of character and definitely wants to be driven again. Unfortunately I received it with a rear spun hub that has painstakingly been replaced but the XK140 wire rim needs to be replaced, so I’m looking for that!
Of course gas tank needed attention so I had that redone… currently the SU carbs are off and I am about to attempt an amateur rebuild, I already have the thorough kits. After that the brakes and it should be ready for a trial run. What a beautiful car this is!
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Oh yes, an introduction!
Matt Hummel, Auburn California.
My life revolves around original 1950’s vintage sports cars… collecting, driving, preservation, and amateur wrenching on them.
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Well, you have a real treasure there in that 120! We look forward to seeing its process…
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My first Jaguar was a 1954 XK120 Drophead, and your description brings back many memories of how punishing a car it was to drive. But when you are twenty-something, none of that mattered. I had to have a blown headgasket job done, and found an expert Jaguar mechanic, and the two of us made things right in a couple weeks. I was in charge of sanding down the small ‘shims’ that went under the bucket tappets. I had the car from 1959 to 1963, and it was my daily driver. It took me from Chicago to Baltimore many times with no issues. My arms became quite muscular at that time.
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wire wheels: new splined and new wheels kinda need to be done together…if either is worn, it will quickly wear the other. Rear hubs are the most likely to wear due to torque. New wire wheels can be purchased…pricey but either chrome, or painted…often body color, often silver. All the wire wheels are similar thru the xk120 140 150. 16 inch diam, 5 inch wide rim. Original tire was a 600-16, about 28.2 inches in diameter. Of course the knock off ears have a specific side of car to be on…you use some antiseize on the thread, spin to tight lightly…then just a 2 or 3 good whacks, no more: …tite but not overtite which damages threads.
by the way, be sure the radiator cap is 4lb. (7 lb is sometimes done…but no more than that.). And as said…don’t drive over 20mph on old tires. They self destruct at speed. It will be interesting to know/find out any race history, anything done to the car for that. If you will private message me with your e-mail I have many maintenance documents I can send to you…and a few really good ones on carb rebuilding. Get the XK120 Factory Service Manual with the XK140 Supplement within it…a must have.
Nick
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