Where you both have a good result using a copper or lead knock off hammer to a novice like myself I have to question which.
Maddy
I used Thor hammers on quite a few, and always saw deformation of the ears: once I started using lead?
Not a scratch.
These are Tweety’s OE spinners, which always had a copper hammer used on them.
You decide.
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Since it was likely what was used the last time it was done, you use whatever hammer you find in the boot (aka the trunk). This does not sound like a trailer queen, so the knock-offs are likely dinged up already. If this is a pristine car, lead does the least damage, followed by copper. Copper work hardens, so an old, well used, copper hammer will be harder than a new copper hammer. If you do not intend to keep or drive the car, I would not replace the tires. These tires will have innertubes, so the tire itself will not actually hold air. You can spend any amount you can imagine on tires, so your choice may not be what your buyer would have preferred.
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Mike makes a good point: at this point, either hammer will work fine.
Just check to see if the ears are already dinged up.
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I like your responses. I have not examined the ears or the car itself very closely yet. I did not notice tools in the boot but they may be there. I thought I remember the previous owner used a copper hammer. Maybe if I put something between the ear and the hammer like cardboard from a box the damage will be less or unharmed?
I will know more about the car when I can spend some tile with it. Until then I have changed my approach due to the great advice here. I will put the car on axel stands to take the weight off the tires, tubes and rims. Then perhaps it is time to check the oil in the engine. Remove the spark plugs and squirt oil in the cylinders, maybe several times then hand turn the crankshaft.
Maddy
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Circling this date in red on my calendar! 
Here is what you are dealing with. A splined hub and a tapered collar. The splines keep the wheel from spinning on the hub during acceleration and braking, and the tapered collar ensures that the hub and wheel are concentric. It will very likely be difficult to separate the two.
Think more like an oak block. Post some photos and we can tell you what you are working with.
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Great! Visuals! I can post when I get that far along some images of what I am working with. It will be several weeks before I visit the car again.
Paul
We’ll have to get together and compare ears!!!
M
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If either of you played rugby then they will be the winner, there are some doozy cauliflowers around our teams 
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That’s kinda personal, dontcha think?
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I thought it to be playful not personal. Each to his/her own I suppose.
Oh, I took it as such: sarcasm is one of my highest expressions of camaraderie…ergo the emoji.
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Maddy;
There are several important things that you NEED to know that no one has mentioned,
I guess I should state, you NEED to find out EXACTLY what the “Make & Model”
are of this Jaguar XK120… there are three “versions” (body styles), the OTS (Open
Two Seater), the FHC (Fixed-Head Coupe) and, the pride of the fleet, the DHC (Drop-
Head Coupe-- the rarest of the three! ;-} ) Also of importance is the XK’s Chassis Number… This six digit number just about tells all there is to know about an XK120.
Okay, those “Two Things” are (1) A “Real” (aka “Factory” XK120/MKVII Service Manual and (2) the “Model Specific” Spare Parts Catalogue" (SPC for short)… On the SPC, IF you have the OTS, only one SPC is required. If you have either of the remaining two models, then you WILL need the “OTS” SPC AND a “Model Specific” SPC as the latter two models had a number of Parts NOT fitted to the OTS.
Also, equally important, DO NOT just roll a trolley jack up under the XK120’s chassis and jack-up the car… that WILL “cave-in” the 120’s chassis!! (and MIGHT crush the 120’s cast aluminum oil pan if you “miss”!) The XK120 has a specific jacking spot on each side of the body… located just inside the doors. Use the factory (SMITH’s) Jack to raise the car without damage!! (until you learn where and how to properly lift the XK120 via the Trolley Jack).
Lastly, you mentioned “checking the oil”, I’d like to caution you to NOT “drain the oil” without being WELL prepared!! You might find yourself creating a SuperFund Site… The XK120’s engine holds Thirteen Quarts of Oil!! AND, You will NOT be able to “hand turn” the Three and a Half Litre Six Cylinder!! There is NOTHING to grab hold of to turn said engine!!
Hope this helps.
Charles. Ch #677556
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Charles,
Thank you for that wealth of cautionary advice. I may need to locate a local person to visit the cat with me to assess the situation. That in itself will occur when I can actually get to the car. There are boxes all around and thankfully not on the XK120 Fixed Head Coupe.
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That will be the best course of action: where is your general location?
EDIT: I see you see you are around Newport, WA.
Id bet theres a helpful JLer, willing to come assist.
Maddy, check your PMs: a local-to-you lister has chimed in.
I’ve always found the heaviest nylon hammer you can find works well on the spinners - and I had for many years to deal with rather fragile magnesium-alloy Campagnolo spinners used on the Iso Grifo.
I always use a trolley jack with a foot-long piece of 4"x2" between the jack pad and the chassis to spread the load.
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I have used this method for raising a car with a trolly jack many times. I use the jack points as it is strongest there. If the car has a chassis strong enough then I use the frame to rais the car. As for the spinners, I’ll have to wait and see.
If I figured out how to send a private message, I should hear back from Charles at some point.
Maddy
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Charles is good people. Three things to note about Charles, and I do this with great respect and love. He has been a participant on this forum for as long as I can remember, at least 20 years, I would think. He is an unapologetic member of the Sir William Lyons XK-120 Full Gospel Tabernacle of Originality. And he is posting from Texas! 
In the words of Willie Nelson, “He ain’t wrong, he’s just different!” 