New member, XJ6 soon to be in my garage - info required

(Gavin) #1

Hi there, just signed up as I’m on the hunt for info on the XJ6. My hunt for one has just begun and I’m after information on a few things. Just a bit of background on me - I currently own 3 Land Rovers and as an Electrician I’m comfortable wrangling Lucas electrics into order and I’ve been working on my own cars for 30 years, so can swing a spanner too. While I’ll be comfortable enough working on whatever I get, Currenty I know very little about Jags - always liked them and always wanted one, and now is the time.

I’m looking at models pre mid 80’s for both the preferred appearance and lack of electronics.

Is there a thread somewhere that has a rundown of what to look for when buying one? Where to look for rust, what basic mechanical checks to do, what traps to look out for etc?

All information greatfully received. TIA. :+1::blush:

(Jochen Glöckner) #2


guessing from the time of your post and the used terminology (“spanner”) I assume you’re located in the UK.

Series (I-III) Jags are comparatively easy to handle both in terms of mechanics and electrics. You should be aware that they - and many parts - are big and heavy. So a spacious garage and/or workshop are definitely more of an issue than with a Spitfire or MGB.

Apart from that rust will be your prime issue. If you like the SIII body style there is one more rust trap around the front and rear screens as they are glued in and the decorative rubbers keeps water inside and causes extensive and often terminal rust damage at the A- and C pillar.

The rest is fairly normal: rusty front and rear valances as well as rear quarter panels can be repaired cheaply. Front wing rust is typical, but can be remedied as these parts are bolted on. Outer and inner sills are bigger issues. For checking cars it’s very helpful to loosen the two screws fixing the rear seat to the floor and look underneath. If this part of the floor pan that secures the rear axle is sound, the rest will be doable.

Even with technical skills I’d always go for a possibly original car with limited mileage and in a reasonable state of care, as you’ll find that you’ll be able to keep alive most of the original parts with a nice patina and it is a lot more easy to know your starting point for diagnostic work.

If you’re into a really nice project you might think about getting a rust-free hull from the southern US and transplant a good original engine and interior from a rusted-out low-mileage UK car.

There is a comprehensive buyer’s guide available on this site

Good luck


75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)


An excellent introduction by DD, but bear in mind that costs, value and perhaps demand are a bit out of date (Dougs last sentence refers to the model as being up 33 yrs old; the earliest S1’s are now about 50).


(Carl Hutchins, Jr. ) #4

A mid 80’s car does have electronics. The fuel management system for the injectors. And tons of sensors on the engine doing various management tasks.

Although my car lost it’s DOHC engine over a decade ago, t was fun. Moreso, now with even more complex electronics.

I am fortunate. Only a tiny rust spot that has not progressed since the car came here in 2001!!

Should you accept the mission, start gathereing literature. Greegory Andrachuk’s Jagcare II, a good place to start. And as an el4ectrician, you will be pleased with Jaguar Schematics S57. Search here, I think they are still available.


(Aristides Balanos) #5

Welcome to the forum Gavin.

Lots of info in here:


(phillip keeter) #6

Don’t know your location but I thought this Series I looked like a good candidate. Needs a paint job but I really like the Series I look and this has the “classic” color combo. Good luck in your search. That’s the most fun part.

(Doug Dwyer) #7

I hope someones come along and saves this car. Paint is very expensive, but, still, it looks like a more-than-decent starting point. So many Ser I cars are borderline basket cases.


(Gavin) #8

Thanks for everyone’s input - really appreciate it. I should have mentioned I’m in Australia. :blush:. Rust is usually dependant on where the car has lived here rather than time or if it’s been driven as we don’t have salt on the roads like in Europe, etc - rust free 50 year old cars are reasonably common as are rust buckets, so it’s still an important thing to look for and one of the biggest things I wanted to know about. If a car has been undercover or spent most of its life inland they will usually be rust free but you never truly know what a cars history is when buying it.

Older vehicles don’t worry me - My Land Rovers are ‘72, ‘76 and ‘86 models and I have a caravan from ‘69 too so prefer older stuff.

Will look over the reference material linked today as well.

Cheers - Gav,

(Gavin) #9

So I’ll be looking at a Series III tomorrow night. This will be a bit of a soft start as I’m unlikely to buy this car but it is fairly close to home and the exterior is in very good condition. It has a shagged water pump which on its own I wouldn’t be too concerned about if it was mine but it means the vehicle is un driveable for any real distance which sort of counts it out for me straight up because I want to take anything I buy for a good long run. Have already checked about fixing this - My local British Car parts supplier who I currently use for all my Land Rover parts says they can get them rebuilt for around $200 to $250 - so I may put it on the owner to get it rebuilt so it’s in working order, but in all reality I’ll just wait until the right vehicle comes along.

Cheers - Gav.

(Frank Andersen) #10

‘Soft start’ is good, Gavin - will give you a feel for what is suitable…

Think about when you bought the Land Rovers, and their subsequent upkeep; what would you have done differently - and apply that to the Jaguar you are seeking…:slight_smile:

Rust, rust, rust is expensive and thankless - the rest, including electrics is not really a problem to fix…

xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

(tony) #11

other big expenses to avoid if possible…new Leather, engine rebuild, re-chrome.

also paint…a bare metal respray is $$$.

@ the OP do you know what Series XJ you want?, concentrate on the best possible one you can, as it will invariably cost less than one that needs a couple of above jobs, and retain its value more if you want to sell.

A good original car is well worth considering

(Paul Breen pay palled it) #12

Here’s one - a Series 3 - in our club classifieds. I’m with Tony - buy the best you can. If you get one for $5k you will spend all of the difference to the asking price. FWIW. Paul (in Sydney)

(tony) #13

have you considered a V12 ?

pretty sweet motors. I yearn to get my '74 Daimler Vanden plas Double-six, with 5 speed manual back on the road

this ad makes you drool a bit…plenty on Oz Ebay

I would be inclined to make a personal inspection before paying 10k for one, checking very carefully for rust, using a magnet, and preferably checking underneath

(Gavin) #14

Thanks - yes, everything and everyone is telling me the same thing so there must be something in that. :+1::blush:. Have also found a very nice Series II I’m going to look at on Thursday. Tomorrow’s viewing will be a good trial run for this one.

(Gavin) #15

That is one sweet machine that’s for sure, and while a V12 is tempting, that may be a bridge too far for me at the moment I think. :blush:. As for what Series I want - ideally a Series I or II but I don’t mind the III’s either, so a wide search criteria. :blush:

Any vehicle I get tempted by will go to a Jag Specialist for a once over before I hand over my dollars. Anyone not willing to let me do this won’t get my money. :+1:

There’s another question - does anyone know a good Indy in Melbourne that knows these vehicles?

(Gavin) #16

This is the one I’m checking out Thursday.

(Aristides Balanos) #17

If it drives as good as it looks it’s a very nice car !
Good luck.

(Paul Breen pay palled it) #18

These guys are well established Jaguar specialists. Maybe contact the Jag club in Melbourne - if it’s like our club the model registrar will be more than helpful. Paul

(tony) #19

excellent example, looks like nothing to spend

check the aircon out, if it doesnt work, haggle at least $1k

rare to see a car like that, $12k would be a bargain.

You could buy a cheaper one, spend +30k and it would never be as good as that one

(phillip keeter) #20

Wow, wish they had one of those around here, (northern Colorado).