New shocks and springs delivered today and the supplier had installed the coil springs for me on the rear shocks. Unfortunately one of the rear shocks has the bolt mount holes 90 degrees off. Any ides as to how to turn it to be aligned properly or do I have to send it back? This is a bummer.
are you sure? Any struts I’ve mounted myself, I’ve been able to turn that by hand.
One end in a vise, use a tommy bar on the other…VOILA!
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No vice needed. Just used two long tapered punches inserted from opposite sides with shock on floor and the ends turned very easily. That was so simple am embarrassed for not trying before using the forum here. Thank once a gain. Now to make a spring compressor for the front springs.
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looking closely at photo, glad that strut didn’t fall on your toe!
Don, as you are going with new springs front and rear, I’ll be interested to see how the car sits when you are done. I put new springs and shocks up front, and just shocks on the rear. Then had to do some “trimming” to get the car where I wanted it…
May be a while before the springs and shocks are replaced as have a tooling problem (being my hands). However was able to measure the ground clearance as it sits this morning. Front is 5 1/8 inch at center, left and right. Rear is 6 1/2 inches center left and right. Had thought the rear was lower than that but it is below the clearance of 7.55" plus or minus 0.25". Car has always been this way since I owned it.
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Hands look as though they may have heeled enough in about a week to attack this project.
Big deciding factor of if this DIY job is this. How high off the deck does the car have to be raised to replace the front springs? Intend to make a DIY tool from 3/4 in. grade 5 threaded rod and 3/8 NF threaded rod to guide the spring pan off and then back on. Thanks if you know this answer and all please wish me good luck.
Man, can I relate…
Hi Don,
I replaced mine a couple of years ago, but from what I remember-
The spring pan has to drop more than you might expect before all the tension is relieved. Maybe fifteen inches of clearance below the pan before you begin. (You can always go higher)
I was able to use a GM style spring compressor on mine, which helped. Make your guides about nine inches long- I used four Plus two short ones…Coming down is no problem, but when you start to compress the spring with the pan you may find that the pan will tilt, ie, not go up “square”- and the sooner you are located on your guide studs, the better.
I think I used a trolley jack and block of wood below the rotor to level everything to get the first bolts started. Be careful.
Edit- While you have the pans off the car, enlarge the six holes by a small amount, or, at the very least, clean up all the holes with a round file. You don’t want to be laying under the car, trying to start an obstinate bolt, with a compressed spring inches away from your face.
As already mentioned, the difference in angle between the lower wishbone and the spring pan is significant.
I made a compressor utilising a ball socket arrangement (ex tractor rear linkage) on spring pan end which allows angle changes be made.
Still scary stuff with all that energy contained so close to your head.
Having to car raised that high with out having a lift is just as unnerving as the compressing those big springs. If local garage that gave me a quote of $200 to replace the front springs will allow me to observe their work will let them do it. Thanks to all for your reply to my question.
Finished in stalling new springs and shocks on both front and rear last night. Also replaced the front upper bushings an both sides with new part number CAC9295.
Just returned from a test drive. In review both front and rear ground clearance was low at 5 1/8 in front and 6 1/2 rear. Front clearance is now 6 1/8 inch both left and right and the rear is 7 3/4 inch both left and right.
The gas tank is at 3/4 full with 45 pounds of gear in the boot.
Made my own front spring compressor from 3/4 inch grade 5 all thread and had a V wedge made by a friends shop. Had two Grade 8 nuts welded to grade 8 flat washers. Rear shocks where super simple but those front springs where a scary challenge. Glad I saw Bernards hint of using a vice grip pliers to keep the all thread from rotating.
One thing different from his idea was an 18 inch long all thread was used in stead of 16 inches.
Best thing is that front springs are in an no injuries.
Nice tool. I made up something similar a couple of years ago which I am now improving. The X300 spring compressors are similar and still available at less than ÂŁ200 - came yesterday. The benefit is the the ball and socket joint which allows angular movement of the pan. I intend either to use the ball and socket on my made up threaded rod assembly, or get my local engineering works to modify the top end of the X300 compressor for the wedge.
Frankie
Glad you had success! It is definitely a relief once the new front springs are all bolted up. The springs will settle and compress a bit more over the next few weeks, but for right now- does the car sit “level”, front to rear? Mine did, and I wanted a slight amount of “rake” so put in a spacer on each rear spring. It will be interesting to see where the car finally ends up. Well done!
Yes the car sit level front to rear. Car sit on 225/55R16 tires which will soon be replaced. With theses tires ground clearance gains 0.64 inch from original 205/70R15. Will keep an eye on ground clearance over the next few weeks as you suggest.
The tool made had a 30 degree angle cut of the two inch elbow. When first threaded up to install it will not sit flat but was perfect when tightened up. Also did not mention that two 3/8 rods where used as guide rods in holes where shock mount bolts where removed, Once spring pan was compress enough a 6 inch bolt was installed at an inner pan hole being careful not to cross thread it. If it wont go by hand it is not aligned correctly.
Now to shop for tires. and a GOOD alignment garage .
That tool looks very similar to the one shown in Bernard E’s site. Can you tell me the angle of cut to the pipe? The Jaguar tool angle is about 17.5 degrees to the horizontal which looks about right, but I don’t know if the exact angle has a bearing on the efficiency of the tool?
Frankie
Angle of the two inch pipe elbow was stated in my post as 30 degrees. Again let me repeat that when first snugged up the tools large washers do not fit flush with the bottom of the spring pan. Read my post again please. Don’t use anything posted on the forum as GOSPEL. As Bernard stated “use at you own risk”.
Thanks Don - I missed the 30 degree note in your second post.
I have been using a home made spring compressor for years and am well aware of all the caveats.
F