Better parts suppliers seem to have moved away from separate race and bearing parts. Now, it’s a one piece Timken bearing(s) and a seal. Anybody gone this route? or did you stick with old skool? I do have access to a press, but is that overkill for this job?? (most YouTubers seem to hammer them in place with the old race. Ugh)
Just did mine with traditional bearing, chisel and hammer: the hub has notches for the chisel. Easy, just requires brute force…
I’m not aware of a sealed bearing kit for the XJ front wheel bearings. I’d really like to see a picture of these “new style” bearings. If the bearings are a sealed bearing, I’m thinking the parts guy is selling you a bill of goods. I did some checking and nowhere do I see a “sealed bearing” for any XJ. I’d stick with a “old Skool” tapered bearing.
Besure to pack the bearings well, check out my Jag Mods video on packing bearings. It’s for a rear carrier, but the principle is all the same. If you just are interested in packing the wheel bearings then start 8:00 min into the video. The other bit covers installing the races with a race install tool.
Depending on how long the races have been in place, they will put up a fight. I didn’t have any luck getting the outer race out with a hammer and punch, so I chose the press route. When the hub relinquished the race, it did with a vengeance. BOOM!! I turned the race seating tool in backwards to get the outer The inner race I didn’t have any other option but to use a hammer and punch. I heated up the hub, then used the hammer and a punch. I probably was too gentle, I didn’t want to gall the hub casting.
For a Series III front wheel bearing “kit” or “set” National is a Set 12 for outer and Set 13 for innter, Timken is an A12 and A13 repectively.
Not sealed. Instead, the race and the bearing are all one assembly. No separate shell.
Do you have a part number?
the timken and national part numbers as “sets” have both the race and the tapered bearing in one box - not purchased separately. However the parts are two separate parts.
for example, the picture is a SKF inner rear wheel hub bearing. It comes in a kit with the seal and the bearing. This is a tapered bearing with the matching race. All three parts are available separately, if so inclined to purchase the parts indiviually. If so inclined. If purchased separately, the bearing and the race will more than likely have the same part number. the Sets are merely a convenience.
Is this what you mean?
Yes, that’s it. (go to SNG Barratt for the Timken “kit”)
I’d love to see one. I’ve looked at all of my usual vendors for bearings, and every one of them lists the tapered bearing and race or the set like in the picture I sent you. Where did you hear or learn of this one piece bearing? Do you
have a part number or manufactuer? We are talking about front wheel (hub) bearings right?
What year Jag do you have?
1985 XJ6 SIII. I’m calling SNG Barratt tomorrow to get to the bottom of it. Meanwhile, I have located a friend who has a press. He says freezing the bearing and heating the hub with a torch makes easy work of the installation
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I’m still confused here. Maybe I’m missing something? I dunno.
Here’s an SNG Timken bearing ‘kit’:
What you get is two bearings, two races, and one seal.
The races (the parts that say “Timken Poland”) are separate from the bearings. For illustration purposes they are shown together, but they are not two parts that have been assembled together. After unwrapping them you can hold the bearing in one hand and the race in the other. If you had a third hand you could hold the seal as well 
I’m not aware of anyone selling the race and bearing as an assembly, to be installed into the hub as one piece.
Cheers
DD
The pic below shows what you’d get in the ‘kit’
I almost hate to bring this up as it may further just confuse things, as semantics can do, but, what the heck.
Decades ago I was taught that the part that actually contains the bearings themselves was the ‘race’. A circular steel cage, containing the bearings = ‘the race’.
The other part, the one that you pound (smash, press, drive, whatever!) into the hub is called the bearing ‘cup’…due to the cup-like shape
So in the above pic the ‘cup’ in on the left and the ‘race’ is on the right
But terminology aside, it’s two pieces, not an assembly
One piece bearings DO exist, but I’ve not seen them for our older Jags. They typically look like this:
Cheers
DD
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The only way to adjust the conical front bearings is to vary the distance between the cup and the race, Doug…?
‘Sealed bearings’ to me means that the bearing is delivered with the grease contained within a seal - no re-greasing required or intended; ‘sealed for life’. Given ‘our’ set-up - I’m oldfashioned…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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I’m thinking the parts guy is looking at the later bearings which are a sealed unit.
These are for the X350 XJ
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I agree. And that’s what we do !
If you own a car that takes the one-piece bearings, there is no adjustment. You press 'em into the hub and that’s it.
Agreed again. And the actual life can vary a lot.
Our old fashioned wheel bearings will virtually forever with regular, proper greasing and adjusting. But, this is often overlooked in routine servicing.
Cheers
DD
I do agree they should last forever, but, this is the very first time (in 205K miles) that I’ve ever pulled the hub in order to observe the inner bearing, much less insure it’s packed with grease. Of course the outer bearing has been tended to many times over the last 31 years… So, while the cavity was plenty packed with newer, sloppier grey grease, I did find, as I got towards the bottom, signs of the more sticky amber grease (that we all grew up with). I’m happy to report that neither bearing was dry. But there is a tiny wee bit of wiggle in the roller carrier. Most will say it’s normal and acceptable. But, as I do have it apart, and I do have access to a press…??? What would you do Doug?? Just a footnote - there was a disturbingly large quantity of grease just sitting in the cavity. Seems wasteful. Begs the question, does it ever really move (as evidenced by the old, amber grease at the bottom of the pile, so to speak)?
Replace it.
Given the low cost there’s no reason, IMO, to deliberate much.
Aside: One thing I always do immediately on removal of a wheel bearing is wipe it with a dark cloth and look for any very tiny metallic bits. If any are seen, well, that settles the matter instantly. I replace the bearing
Oft questioned and debated. Many shop manuals say the cavity should be filled but the rationale not explained. I’ve been on the fence for years. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don’t. When I haven’t, nothing palpably bad has occurred…although I am aware that sometimes bad things take a long time to develop
Cheers
DD
If your doing the inner wheel bearings you do need the check the stub axel…its not uncommon for the bearing to be spinning on the stub…if its worn your new bearing will be loose on the axel…so axel needs replaceing…iv just replaced both my fronts
My “shave and a hair cut, two bits”
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The method taught me by my boss on my college job did not include packing the cavity. I have followed that for decades. Just fine. I’ve had front wheel bearings fai. For other reasons…
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I’ve noted two You rube mechanics pack bearings. One on large trucks and the other on classic ex] Greyhound . buses. Each in the same manner. Hand ful of grease. Gloves on. With the other work the bearing into the dab so that the cavity between the rollers and cage and race are filled. No packing the cavity in the hub between the bearings.
And, in each case, the grease was reddish…
Each used the punch and hammer to remove the old races. aka cups as Doug mentions… Old race to seat the new. Although devices exist to drive “cups” home.
Seems I got it right.
Side bar. The spindle on my T ford was threaded at the outter end, not only for the nut, but for the threaded Timken bearing . That is where the bearings were adjusted The toothed washer, nut and cotter pin merely to secure the assembly…Slick…
Carl ,
@TMack This is what you need for your front wheel bearings and seals.
Grease -
I use Lucas High Temp (red grease) down below is a video o bearing packing
Bearings.
'85 series III uses the Timken A12 & A13 bearing kits seals Timken 473474
SNGBarratt will do you right, but I guarantee it will cost more. I use SNGBarratt for the hard stuff, like the stub axle that may be grooved and need replacing depending how long it’s been since the IFS has been serviced. Sub axles do not come apart easily. Just Say’n.
I use Rockauto for the normal wear and tear stuff.
Timken A12 and A13 bearings Seal is Part # 473454
Keep in mind, that bearings, seals, screws and many other bits that comprise a Jaguar are purchased from part suppliers; and aren’t made by Jaguar.
For example
The A12 bearing used in a Jaguar fits many other cars
The Timken A13
Testing bearings - press the bearing in the race apply pressure and turn the bearing. it should turn smoothly with out any crunchy feeling or noise. Just spinning a bearing not under load tells you nothing other than the bearing isn’t completely seized. Bearings are designed to work under pressure.
Part suppliers I use a lot.
[Rock Auto] (https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jaguar,1985,xj6,4.2l+l6,1178096,brake+&+wheel+hub,wheel+bearing,1672) both bearings and seals for both front wheels can be had for under $35.00 US doll-hairs
Granted SNGBarratt has a much better return policy than Rock Auto but if you know what you need then returns aren’t an issue.
Parts guide for Jaguars
This will be useful for Jag specific website and as a cross reference for non-Jag centric parts houses like RockAuto.com & partsgeek.com
For part number searches using OE part numbers use Jaguar centric websites such as
sngbarratt.com - Really like
XKS.com - Not so much, terrible service.
terrysjag.com - really like
jagbits.com - okay for really hard to find stuff
everydayxj.com (used parts and some NOS) - my only source for used Jag stuff. this place is the BEST!!!
You’re friend is right. check out my video where I freeze out the grease seal on a rear carrier.
Another trick is dropping a bit of weld metal on the bearing race, Letting it cool, then pop the race out. That too is on a video on YouTube
Freezing Honey I shrunk the Seal!
Welding a race out Life hacks of the garage
Packing bearings and installing races I put the race in the freezer & the hub in the oven to no more than 200 deg F. Is this necessary? not really. but every bit helps
Packing bearings and installing races in the Carrier assembly
My point is this. jaguars are like any other car. Don’t get intimidated by the Kitty on the front (like I was at first). It’s just a car. It too has quirks and anomalies like any other car. Save your self a couple of bucks, do the research, use the part number stamped on the part as a starting point. Cross reference that with jag part numbers using the classic jag parts website. and more shop around.
I’d bet money the bearings and races will have searchable manufacturers and part numbers
Good bearing brands are SKF, Timken, National. For the nominal difference in cost, I’d shy away from cheaper brands; because the bearings aren’t necessarily finished as well, and will more than likely wear more and quicker. Keep in mind most chain parts houses sell shit parts.
rockauto.com - I never shop in the “economy” section. it’s not with the minimal price difference
I’m a thrifty bastard, that worked in an auto parts store in high school & college. I know the drill. I’ve also got a pretty good handle on part sources and manufacturers of quality and of well the opposite of quality.
Just because the part doesn’t come in a green and white box doesn’t mean that it’s not going to work, or that the part is inferior. unlike some un-named person in the X3— forum that told me flat out I was a retard, for stating such a claim. My grandmothers words ring in my ears, “A fool and their money soon part.” God Bless her!!
I don’t know how much of this you already know, but just in case you don’t.
Mark
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SNG Barrett was $25 for each side, and they included a cotter pin, seal, inner and outer bearing and races. Timken made in Poland. Yes there was some tax and shipping too.
Good deal, its about 10 bucks a side high, but their goid people and i support good people. Check your stub axles for wear. Like every one has said no need to waste a bunch of grease by packing the center. A little dab will do ya. Keep rust and moisture at bay