It sounds like fuse 5 may be bad. When you say Fuse 5 has power, are you measuring both sides of Fuse 5? The fused side feeds your side lamps, tail lamps, plate lamp, and panel switch.
The simplified wiring diagram may help:
Does this look like a bad fuse to you guys?
It didn’t to me, but it was fuse 5 and it had no continuity when I pulled it and checked it. I doubt that I’d have done it with you guys assisting me on a Friday night. Thank you @NaplesGuy and @ryaskovic
Doesn’t “look” bad…but the continuity is the criteria. So if no continuity then it’s bad.
Replace it and let us know if that solved the panel light and side light power issue? You might want to also replace the fuse on #6 and see if that works too!
Chet
I may have spoke too soon. Doing more checking. They came on with the new fuse now they are out. Rechecking.
The original switch is very simple - when you press the bottom of the rocker, the two top terminals will be connected to each other. When you press the top of the rocker, the two bottom terminals will be connected to each other.
The new switch has to work the same way, even though the terminals are re-arranged. So, press the bottom of the rocker, and use an ohmmeter or continuity tester to figure out which two terminal are connected together. Connect the two wires that were on the top terminals of the old switch to those two terminals. Makes no difference which wire you put on which terminal. Connect the other two wires to the remaining terminals. Again, it makes no difference which wire you put on which terminal.
All is well. It was a double whammy. Bad fuse and corroded contacts in fuse 5. I used some sandpaper to clean them up and found some twenty five year old paint overspray on the fuse contacts, but the fuse was bad too
2 Likes
I was typing the previous message while sitting in the floor of the Jag (no interior) and neglected to say that everything was working, including the panel lights, although I found a burned out new LED panel light and a socket for the speedo that is corroded.
2 Likes
And since were talking fuses and you’re replacing some -
I’m not sure if you are aware that British fuses are rated at their blow current value while American fuses are rated for their continuous current capacity. So if you just put a 35amp American fuse in for Fuse 5 because the label shows “35”, it’s actually too large.
Here’s one thread that talks about that a bit, and there are quite a few others out there too:
1 Like
I had read this hear in another thread and wondered about that. I used a 20 amp fuse to replace one that was listed at 35 amps. It might be better if I replaced it with a 15 amp fuse.
1 Like
Interesting the things you learn on this forum. I’ve been using the ones I purchased two years ago from (now) Moss Motors. Now I’m wondering if they are rated under British or American standards?
Chet
My car had intermittent fuse problems with loose end caps and a mixture of British and American type fuses. When I first learned about the two ratings I went down to Motor Cars Limited a local place in Houston that sells mostly modern Jaguar parts but also services old British cars. I bought two of each per the rating on the fuse plate and re-fused my car with what they told me were all British rating. They all have the paper sleeve inside. Cost less than $10 total if I remember correctly. I would assume any of the usuals could do the same thing if you don’t have a local place that sells the British type fuses.
David
68 E-type FHC
What I’ve been using lately (18 for 6 bucks.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9BVFTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
To keep me busy on those long winter nights, I open them up and insert a Lucas paper label:
2 Likes
George, you need to get a life! 
Are the filaments not soldered to the end caps? How do you get them re-attached?
1 Like
Older fuses had a hole in the end of each cap and the end of the fuse wire was soldered from the outside. Very simple to heat, open and re-solder these:
Later ones may just have a glob of solder inside the cap, then you have to heat the entire cap to get that solder to flow:
To insert a label you only have to undo one end so the fuse wire stays put, though I have also replaced the fuse wire on blown fuses. The parts box:
More important perhaps on earlier cars where the fuses were in plain sight - but I still enjoy seeing them when I drop the dash center panel.
1 Like
Geo do you need some additional projects to work on.? Howabout fitting a small sailing ship inside those fuses? Now THAT would be a real conversation item when you drop the center panel ! 
Chet
1 Like