Tony and Richard, you’re both absolutely correct, but that is not what I’m after. I want to save a cat, not maintain an existing well taken care of house cat. Call me crazy…I’m fine with that. LOL.
Another find in Tx:
https://classiccars.com/listings/view/889225/1971-jaguar-xj6-for-sale-in-denton-texas-76207?utm_medium=email&utm_source=transactional&utm_campaign=dealer-sales-lead-online-form
Jeff
save one that isnt going to die from cancer anyway (rust)
I have spent hundreds of hours repairing rust on a car that was original, unmolested, and almost rust free (or so I thought)
If I had to choose a cheapy, it would be a non-going engine or car in bits situation, estate, divorce, moving sale etc.
once again, if it has rust in the key places, walk away!
Tony,
Agree with you regarding rust!!
Jeff
You’d think I’d remember that. Filling up the Ol’ Series II and a strong smell of gas… I was essentially pumping gas not into the tank but through the tank. The weird thing is I’d been driving the car for over a year, replaced the filler cap seals (XKS.com roughly $20 US a pair) when I first got the car. Anyway, one of my many projects… but yes. the tanks. Also I take a piece of CAT5 (networking) preferable solid core wire which is just the right size to clean out the hose and the tank & sun roof hoses and drains. I preface the insertion with a bit of soap for lube and cleaning action. The tank drains get clogged very easy around my neck of the woods.
But good call Tony!
Great idea with the CAT5 wire.
Jeff
take a fridge magnet to any inspection…will slide right off any bogged area
Great idea…I have three on the fridge ready to provide their opinion. 
Jeff…Understand your mission, and I think it is great! What I have found is so many THINK they are saving money by buying the cheapest car when in reality, they will spend 4+ times more getting it right. I have a friend who buys $300-$500 cars (some running;others not) and resells them for $1500-$1800! He sells every one he can get! He’s smart as he is completing his PHD at William & Mary with a “0” balance. He say the $15-1800 is a price range everyone can afford for a Jaguar or Mercedes (not knowing what is ahead)!
Richard
I do this. A weak and a strong wrapped in cloth. And I tell the seller that’s what I’m doing prior to making the trip. Paul
William & Mary is just 50 min. away. Small world.
Yes, got to go into this type of project with a plan and budget and (try) to stick to it. I just love the look of the Series I, and it’s a car I plan on keeping. No resale plans, it’s mine until it or I are dead.
While I love computers on my lap or on a desk, I don’t like them in my cars. Just adds to the expense of ownership and what are people going to do when that expensive electronics takes a dump. I like my cars analog, thank you very much!! 
Jeff
know a guy who does the same, he is an expert mechanic, often sells customer cars when they cant afford repair.
one model, we both compete to buy…“crank no start”…rock up with a crank sensor and spare ECM, pay dude ~$500…should see the look on dudes face when you start their car up and drive away (these cars are known for failed crank sensors, but they are a bugger to fit…or ECM)
Even better if its just the Neutral Safety Switch (no crank, no start)
Having owned all three series…This whole thread seems VERY PAINFULL.
Good luck,but Ive owned series 1 xj6 and 12, series 2 v12 coupe and many series 3 xj6 and a 12.
Every 100 dollars you spend, you might get back a penny, MAYBE.
Finding series 1 parts 25 years ago was a pain, if you have rust…well…
So good luck and hope you live your dream.
For the same money buy a mint xj300 , they are built like an army tank, look sexy and the last diy.
Or do like me lease a new jag every 3 years and enjoy the ride.
GTJOEY1314
Found what appears to be a decent condition 1985. I’ve emailed them requesting additional info. Much better condition than the other two (a 1971 and a 1985) that I’ve looked at.
https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1985/jaguar/xj6/100748361
Jeff H
When the seller furnishes you with fuzzy photos it means one of two things. Either the seller is a shitty photo taker or (most likely) he (or she) is hiding something. Use caution on this one.
Phillip
ITS FUZZY BECAUSE THE PICTURE WAS TAKEN IN 1986 WITH A CAMERA AND FILM…BAhAAAAAA
I love making me laugh…Heed Mic Jaggers warning .
Some people just love pain…
On a serious note, On a series 3 look for bubbles around the front and rear windscreen…if bubbles, run don’t walk.
I have a Series III that I’m working to give a new lease on life; and pass it on to somebody who enjoys a classic. It was destined to be crushed.
What’s been done
Alternator
General tune up
timing chain tightened
air pump removed
carpet / mats
new master cyl
What parts do I have for this car?
All of what is needed to complete (well not the headliner). including panels cut out of a donor XJ.
what’s left
fuel gauges aren’t reading right.
rear brakes
front and rear suspension gone through.
Rust, yes. but it won’t when I’m done.
Interior needs wood and leather is dry but not ripped or cracked - salvageable. a headliner.
Oh, passenger door doesn’t open - easy peasy.
outside of that the car is in really good shape considering where I purchased it.
Compression is at 160 dry idles very smooth; and has great pick up for a car with 139k on the clock. Actually better than the Series III with half the miles.
This one
Here’s the engine after I was done. to give an idea of the level of work I do.
Yep, it’s for sale. I’ve got a Series I and II that I’d rather be working on.
I admire your optimism, but I think these statements are almost the definition of mutually exclusive 
I hope you do save an old Jag… they really are great cars. This forum will definitely help you along the way. However, as someone who recently acquired an early series 1, and someone who has slowly and painfully been working to bring back an XJS, I can only echo others comments. Buy the nicest you can afford, or at the very least don’t buy anything with rust. These cars will not sell for anywhere near the cost of restoration. They just don’t bring that kind of money, not even for the absolute best examples. Unless you have a very large pile of money you just want to burn as quickly as possible, I wouldn’t undertake trying to restore a vehicle you plan to drive regularly. Now, if it’s an extra car to drive when it’s running and not one you plan to rely on for regular transportation, by all means rescue away.
A nice series 1 can run 13k to 17k, and can be a daily driver. There are a few nice options on Hemmings right now as examples. Best bet is to get one someone else sorted out. I would take the 1971 XJ6 with 50k miles and working AC for 14k long before any other project car if you plan to drive it regularly. If you want to spend less, get a well sorted series 3. My personal car has excellent interior and was in the above ballpark, and in the past few years it had a bare metal respray, rebuilt water pump and recored radiator, transmission service, AC service, exhaust work, headliner replacement, window seals front and back, tires, shocks, among several others and regular fluid changes. Just my 2 cents. Good luck!
Jeffery,
Staunton is just up the road from me…if you need somebody to take a look…let me know
Cheers
Gary
they are mutually exclusive
an older Jag (or ANY older vehicle) will regularly need some repairs or refurbishments
When this happens, they will be off-the-road, until you (or someone else) completes the needed tasks.
Example…ALL cars need regular O/H of brakes and suspension.
Unless you are are very experienced, fully equipped, with much energy and spare time, overhauling these parts takes weeks, rather than days.
to the OP…if it is hot where you live, an XJ needs A/C
I always stipulate working A/C…fixing busted A/C on an older Jag is expensive
This is correct. I found it better to retrofit. I did all the bracketing and fitting up and had a pro fit hoses and gas. Well north of $AUD 2500. Good system though. Paul
