New to the group & to Jags! Looking for my last project and have questions

Hello! I’ve been restoring classic cars as a hobby for nearly 50 years (my first car was a 1937 Chevy I got when I was 9 and made it into a hotrod & took my drivers test in it at 16), starting with big American iron and quickly moving to LBC’s.

Having restored many Triumph’s, MG’s, and Healey’s, I’ve never had my hands on a Jag. Now I’m moving the '47 MG TC and the '74 TR6 on to make room for what I expect will be my last major restoration. Providing you with the knowledge that I do absolutely ALL of my own work (paint too), and my MO is to bring cars home in pieces then win awards with them at shows years later, my questions to the forum are:

  1. What are the top few issues associated with the E-Type besides the obvious rust?
  2. Do the blocks & heads have crack / warp issues or are they pretty bullet proof?
  3. Same for the gearbox - anything to watch out for?

I have my eye on S2 that is a non-runner with nearly 0 compression in one cylinder. Valve or rings maybe? Or could there be a cracked head or other issue the 4.2 is known for? I have no reservation on pulling the engine and taking my time to rebuild, but need to not start with a boat anchor…

Thanks for the insight! Looking forward to getting to know the group.

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Welcome to the group!

Your topics are all well-covered in the archives, and they’re relatively easily searchable, just put in the terms that you asked about.

You’ll find that the E type and its six cylinder engine are not particularly complicated devices, but they do have their quirks. Covering all those quirks would take up many thousands of words, so that’s why I suggest looking in the archive.

You won’t need to many special tools, but you will need a few, and those can be rented through the Coventry Foundation (@Dick_Maury) or JCNA if you are a member.

You won’t find a better, more helpful group of people on the planet!

Brian,
Welcome to Jag-Lovers.
That bad cylinder could caused by a few things like a burnt valve, bad rings, bent valve, burned piston, etc. The first order of business would be to check the valve clearances and then do both dry and wet compression checks.
I agree with Paul about the archives. I have been a member of this list for over 20 years and pretty much everything that can be discussed has been, many times. I routinely search the archives first and then ask questions when I am stumped.

Paul

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This question will help focus future comments: “Is the S2 you are considering a FHC, OTS, or 2+2?” – and 4-speed or automatic?

This may also resurrect the temporarily dormant though always simmering “my model is better / best” discussion.

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ALWAYS good for a giggle…:laughing:

Thanks all.
The car I’m considering is a roadster 4sp. Funny @Wiggles mentions quirks - after rebuild the Stag V8, I can’t imagine a more ‘quirky’ engine! Who’s bright idea was it to out the head studs in at an angle??? Getting the heads those engines required hanging the engine by the head, heating the studs to cherry red, dowse with penetrating fluid, beat the crap out of it. Rinse & repeat for a week!

I spent a bit of time searching the archives but didn’t find exactly what I was looking for, but I’ll definitely do more due diligence. I guess searching for “known weak points” would have been appropriate now that I think about it.

That’s the legacy of the TR 7/SAAB engine: a Stag is basically a V version of that! I cursed that feature many times…:rage:

Known, weak points…

  • these cars rust from the inside: if you see evidence of it on the cells, it’s almost guaranteed that you’re going to have to do a complete seal replacement. Dinner with the floors. Pay close attention to the legs that go up and over the IRS cage.

  • The engine isn’t so much as quirky, as you have to be careful with some of the replacement parts. There’s a fair amount of crap tastic hearts out there, and when you get to that point, will go over that!

  • short stud versus long stud: that’s a whole entire discussion of itself. If it is a long stud engine, then you may have issues.

Similar here. Model Ts, AH3000, many Vettes, and just finished the only Jag.
The only thing you cannot fix is matching numbers with the build plate.
Of course an unmolested Ca. Car is best. $ per $ miles ahead.
The head stud deal is big, and unavoidable, but Oil of Wintergreen is your friend. Jeff

Welcome to the lifestyle

I’d research the models value before jumping in they all cost about the same to resurrect but there not all worth 280,000 when done. Make sure the car is complete. Oh it’s just missing such and such ya right, you’ll find out why . Engine problems are the least of your worries it just an engine they built in various version’s for 60 + years

Cheers

Welcome!

I do a lot of lurking and reading. Wiggles is right very very helpful group the best. My 2 cents there are lots of parts and pieces more than most cars I believe, so hopefully you find a complete car. I was lucky I live in AZ and found a rust free solid AZ car. It’s been a lot of work for a rookie like me.

Me too … well, except chrome. I got to the point of stripping off the old plating and polishing but stopped short of getting to the replating stage. Handling and storing cyanides with kids around gave me pause. I also had all my pieces cadmium plated by a shop, much the same reason, but I have a zinc electroplating setup that works well.

Mechanically, working on an E-type is pretty straightforward if you follow the manual. Bentley is the best, imo, but the Haynes is also really good, especially when referenced in concert with the Bentley. As you surmise, the biggest challenge is the bodywork. A rotisserie a must. As Wiggs says, it’s a big subject area and everything has been discussed several times over the years and in the archives, though you’ll catch onto the most efficient ways to plumb them only by doing it. One thing I’d recommend is, if the car has any rust at all, you’ll need to consider getting new engine subframes.

Welcome to the asylum. :sunglasses:

Having grown up in Vermont I am WELLLLL acquainted with rust! But, now that I live in SoCal I have grown accustomed to rust-free cars and vow to never do more than a simple rust spot due to damage. The car I’m looking at is in fact rust free, so that box is checked.
My last restoration was a 1963 MGB which I built a rotisserie for and even painted the car on it. As I get older, I have no need to do that again! :slight_smile:

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One of the more significant differences between an e type and your other builds is the forward structure: “A” engine frames, picture frame and trapeze. As per the others have a look in the archives. Many of us replace the A frames at least. My pair came in a box - mass 9kg. Very light and strong but prone to “inside out” rust. FWIW.

Just realised Nick said similar! He’s right though.

Maikel Lemke , Richard Michael owen, and monocoque metalworks on Youtube , all have informative videos on E types.

Yes, they definitely do. The reputation you’ve heard about them overheating in southern US climates was well deserved. The original cooling fan motor, (while novel for being electric) was hot garbage. It moved too slow, had an egg beater for a fan, and burned out with alarming rapidity. It also had a junky thermostatic switch which failed as often as the motor, and of course failed “off”.

So yes, warped heads. The 3.8 block was pretty robust, but as a sacrifice to the gods of speed with the 4.2 they moved the cylinders around in addition to over-boring them so the walls between a couple of them got exceptionally thin, and cracks are common. They can be fixed but it’s just another thing to have to deal with. You have four over bores for cylinders before sleeving is necessary. Also four grinds for cranks before replacement is necessary.

Many parts are available. Quality varies. Some things can be made to work. Others are hot garbage. Some parts can’t be had new and are very hard to find used. Avoid basket cases for this reason as a first timer. You’ll have a hard time.

Original 3.8 gearboxes can be rebuilt but it takes a long time and a lot of hunting. 4.2s are easier in most respects since the wear parts (synchros) can be bought.

Overwhelmingly though, the issue is rust, combined with the relative difficulty of building a monocoque body.

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Just be aware that many small fortunes have started with those words, and a large fortune.

Re the engine;

If you have done a compression test and got zero on one cyl, that assumes the engine rotates easily with the starter motor ?

In that case, it would likely be a valve issue

You do not say what year it is ?

4.2 engines switch to long stud sometime in '68

It can be be very difficult to get the studs out

You would probably have to assume your motor needs a rebuild

If the car has been inactive for a long time, brakes as well

As others have said, Rust is the biggest thing, if it has none, you are miles ahead

How sure are you about that?

have you tested it all over with a fridge magnet (although it wont stick to the leaded areas)

All the other systems may or may not need rebuilding or replacement, but all the parts are available

E-types are not rare cars, and there is a lot of support for them

Disclaimer; I regrettably do not own an E-type, but other Jags

Yup, If I wasn’t already running away, I’d be diagnosing that before proceeding further.

Thanks all. Still considering the car, with my TR6 asking “why do you need another project?” :slight_smile:

SoCal does offer an incredible rust-free world of cars - truly is like a time machine. As I consider projects, rust is never a concern. So considering the the engine rebuild, my concern is if the head and block are viable - lots 'o testing to be done. My neighbor just spent $30k on a TR3 engine (not sure how!) and not sure what all is meant here by “small fortune” but my estimates pencil out. Hope to have great news soon!