Yes, I was thinking about something like a pinned drive. Maybe a bump on the bearing race and a corresponding female depression in the OPDS. I’m no machinist or metallurgist, so don’t know what’s possible…but it would ideally be as simple as possible.
Hello Eric,
You would have the same issue getting a mechanical drive from the face of the inner bearing race as a friction drive using a bearing with the typical large radius between face and bore of the inner race; a lack of a contact interface between the Oil Pump Drive Sleeve and the bearing.
It would be simpler to install a drive pin, or key in the Main Shaft. However, as I mentioned in my previous Post, the issue of the possibility of deformation of the Oil Pump Drive Sleeve where it contacts the bearing would still exist. This deformation is not a hypothesis; I’ve seen it in a number of gearboxes I’ve pulled down that had rear bearings with large corner rads on the bore of the inner race.
Regards,
Bill
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Would that be the case even with the RMS11 bearing?
I just tried sending Bill a PM but I’m new on this site and cannot find a way to see a “sent” box showing any PMs.
Thanks,
Kevin
I found a vendor that has the KSM RMS11N with same dimensions and circlip. Thanks to Bill and the others for all the assistance. Will update forum when it arrives.
If making a new collar is viable, let me know pls as this would be the time to have it made.
Kevin
When you get the bearing, do check the circlip is in the right spot. I bought new bearings years ago and when I bolted the bell housing onto the transmission case, the gear train locked up as the first motion shaft was pressed against the mainshaft because the circlip was not in the correct position
Dennis 69 OTS
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Will do. I measured the circlip on my original Hoffman bearing. It was 1/8 inch from the bearing face. According to the vendor, it is a match. We will see… If it is correct, I can post the vendor info on this thread if anyone is interested.
Kevin
I’m definitely interested!
The correct KSM RMS11NR bearing arrived today. I bought it from rainbow precision products in Murrieta California. It was $53.63 and my sales representative was Tim. He did an outstanding job. Reassembly starts soon. This is first step in the complete restoration. Long way to go…
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Thanks for the info, Kevin. I’ll buy one tomorrow. Rainy day project for me.
I believe you are talking about the rear bearing. If so does the replacement have no radius on the center and how many balls are in it?
Thanks
Yes, the rear bearing and it has no radius on the face of the inner race. Will count number of bearing balls tonight and update.
Kevin
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I spoke with Tim and then ordered the bearing on-line this morning. A space is necessary between RMS11 and NR to get the part to pop up (RMS11 NR). The guy packing up the order later called me and wondered about the application. He said they have12 in stock at the moment…special order part from the factory that required a quantity buy and 180 day production lead time. FWIW…
I had the other half call this AM as we are somewhat local. They appear to have the front bearing available also but a few days out. I should have both in my hands Saturday or Monday.
I am sure Tim is wondering what is going on.
What’s the manufacturer and part number for the front bearing?
Hello Kevin,
The KSM Bearing is not completely without radius, but the way the bearings is made with the radius between the bore and the face of the inner race, not being tangent with the face, provides enough contact (circa 90% compared to the original Hoffman Bearing) to work. The bearing has 8 balls bearings.
Regards,
Bill
Believe the front is a RMS 13NR with a snap ring. I will know for sure in a few days when I get it.
Yes, the radius is very small and has 8 balls.
Kevin
I got my bearings in today. Both front and rear. The new rear bearing has a very small inner radius as noted above. The snap ring location looks to be the same as measured with my caliper. I will say the new snap ring is thinner, but the groove on the bearing will accept the old snap ring.
I am pretty sure my front bearing is not original so I can’t compare it to the original one.
I have attached some pictures of the bearings with part numbers.
Lastly the main shaft caged needle bearing is a Koyo J1612
For search purposes the replacement ball bearings are KSM brand and are RMS11 NR and RMS13 NR. Both of these have snap rings but you should note that when ordering as I am unsure what letter KSM denotes as having a snap ring. Their catalogue lists these numbers with out the rings.
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My main shaft had some wear where the needle bearing rides. I took it to a local machine shop and had it laser welded and turned down for under 200 bucks.
I have attached a before and after so don’t get discouraged if your shaft is damaged. It should mic out at 1.000 for the needle bearing and I was worn down to .993. The new diameter is spot on as they did a good job grinding it.
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