Hi,
The word we use for that part (oil filter adapter) in Finnish would translate to ”shoe”. 
Cheers!
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RE: Ethanol in fuel. Did you have any info or links to better suited needles for the SU’s?
Not sure this is a problem in the XK but need to put it together first to be able to check & tune. I already have the problem in my E-type and would love to read up on what to install to minimize the problem.
It’s always a little more work than planned but winter is here and no rush.
The front crank seal need to replaced as as well all engine and transmission mounts. The rear seal seem fine, no oil leaks. I am just installing a regular seal, not PTF nor rope.
I do not really want to tear off the head but is that considered “the right way” to go?
If I lift the head it should get a cometic head gasket. I have one or two laying around for 3.8 E-type engine, but those may not fit. The engine is a mix with Mark 2 block, early XK120 cylinder head and XK120 oil sump.
Hi,
As you already have the sump off and are going to replace the engine mounts you can get the timing cover off without disturbing the head gasket. I did it once for my E-type to replace the front seal (and oil pump and split pins with S2 XJ6 con rod bolts and nuts.)
Cheers!
If you are referring to the slotted plug, it’s not necessary to remove it. It does not effect the operation of any of the filter heads.
Series 2 XJ6 filter mount uses a spin on filter and fits the chassis without issue.
We’re still into autumn weather here in the extreme south of Canada. Another month of driving, but only the E. I took the 120 off the road just a couple of days ago to get an early start on engine work. But, yes, when winter comes it’s the time to get those bigger jobs done at a relaxing pace. I rather look forward to it every year.
Lifting the head is no big deal. Just did it myself, again.
No, the 3.8 head gasket will not fit.
Nice looking car.
Thanks for all advice. Sure, I went ahead and removed the timing cover and the studs came out easy locked with a slim and regular nut. Guess I will install allen head bolts to ease future repairs. Careful tapping with rubber and brass mallet made this job quite doable. I used a little blue Loctite silicon on the paper gaskets and put the timing cover together.
Engine mounts, and some minor parts on the purchase list but there will be more.
Regarding the oil filter, I will try and mount the MarkX filter head and then see if the E-type spin on will fit without interference.
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Almost time to fill up with lubrication, I was thinking:
Engine oil - 20-50W Castrol Classic.
Gearbox - Redline MTL
Rear end (ENV type) - Royal Purple 75-90W
I already have a small stock of the Redline and Royal Purple. The Redline MTL comes recommended by fellow E-type owners, at least in the Moss Box.
The Royal Purple I do not find much info about (in xk120) but it is a high quality gear/diff oil.
Suppose any good 30W or 20-50W oil will be fine for the engine, I cleaned and washed out all the sludge from the pan.
Would be happy to get other recommendations on lubrication. 
I’d give the Royal P to those that use it. OK on that engine oil–or 15-50 Mobil 1 which also has correct zddp. EIther. Gearbox–no on the Redline…Jaguar specified the oil in no uncertain terms even issuing a later Service Bulletin cautioning against use of other, newer oils–30 wt engine oil…and actually should be non or low detergent to reduce foaming. I have found the very best to meet this to be Millersoil Vintage 30 single grade non detergent. My shifting improved noticeably. Differential, Castrol or Mobil 1 75-90.
in short tho…your engine oil choice is fine, Royal P in diff if you must…but for the gearbox–use 30wt engine oil-single grade, low detergent…and just go for it…since it is not changed often–put in the good stuff…Millersoil vintage 30.
Nick
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I tried Redline in my Moss box and it made it noticeably noisier. I went back to SAE 30.
For the engine SAE 20W-50 is fine if you are in a warmer climate. SAE 10W-40 if you are in a colder climate.
The 20W is the viscosity measured at a cold temperature zero F or -18 C as in W for winter and the 50 is the viscosity measured at a higher temperature 100 C.
It’s not really correct to speak of weight when describing oils. That term dates back to the days when they had only gear oil and sewing machine oil. A quart of gear oil was heavier than a quart of sewing machine oil, hence heavy oil and light oil.
A spec like SAE 30 is a viscosity or fluidity range index.
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I know what you mean–but–no matter summer or winter–it is really start up cold, and operating temp warm: said another way–the lower number, say 20 is the viscosity when cold…this helps flow oil thru the engine so it is not like molasses and without stressing the oil pump. As the oil warms, viscosity improving molecules chain up so that when at hot normal operating temp the oil has a viscosity of 50, thus not as thin and free flowing as would be a 20 when hot, but that 50 viscosity when hot–is not like a 50 would be cold. So like magic, a multi grade re-invents its viscosity by chaining up molecules of viscosity improving agents as the engine oil warms. An aside to that–engine oil for street cars have formulations containing anti-sludge, anti -acid, detergents, but some anti foaming, aniti shear, and more: the oils for older cars have some seal swelling agents and some “clingly” stuff…(more molecules) to help the rings seal–and improve compression and lessen blowby–of a presumably worn engine. (the stuff that Bardahl No Smoke is made of). and then of course…zddp of various amounts, the correct level for flat tappet cams being 1000 to 12000ppm. Don’t try to mix your own zddp–unless you are a chemist–to hard to get the ppm right.
Nick
Not sure what intake manifold you are using, but you have the wrong water pump for a XK120.
You need the one on the right below. This will greatly simplify the lower hose connection to the XK120 radiator.
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Thanks for the feedback. Regarding Mobile 1 there are a few15-50, “Mobil 1 15W-50 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil” states it has zinc.
Water pump, yes the engine block is from a Mark2, the orignal block is on a pallet. I will look closer at originality when restoring the original block sometime in the future,
Speaking about it the Redline MTL may be somewhat more noisy in the E-types Moss box as well, did not notice much difference in shiftinh either. LiquidMoly does also carry a series classic oils these days, they have very good reputation.
Right now it will run what I have but when the season start I may just drive it a few hours and do another change of lubricants. Tires are from '88, suppose the old oil may have been in there a significant amount of time as well.
Water pump pix: Is that a scintilla magneto on the XK engine and what model harmonic balancer (from GM?) fit on the XK engine?
I believe I can speak for Mike on the magneto. Yes, it’s a Vertex/ Scintilla mag. He and I seem to be the only ones on here running ours with mags. Everyone else can debate the merits of distributor vs electronic ignition, but those of us with these mags know what trumps all. They were an original aftermarket accessory back in the day too.
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Chris, 674300 is another XK120 converted to magneto ignition. Years ago I was in contact with its Bay Area owner, but it has since been sold.
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Can we start a thread on magneto ignition? Would like to understand more about them please
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I came across a parts lot the other day, mostly series 2 e-type.
While packing out the stuff I found a new spin on adapter, did not get the “connector” though. Does anyone have the thread sizes and dims for the male-male connector needed to make this work?
Another “issue”, the harmonis damper was trash, need to order a new one. Having a MK2 block should I get the mark 2 harmonic balancer? I have a C45 alternator and as we know a later waterpump.
Hi there: did not follow this thread.
I tried quite a few oils. Redline leaks noticeably more than SAE30 because it’s synthetic, which means it creeps much more than a mineral based oil (hence the better lubrication characteristics, for low-tolerance machinery). I hated the stuff and went back to SAE30 which I really like for shift quality and frankly very little noise.
Next summer I will for sure try 20W50 in the gearbox as well, as I find that SAE really does have a hard time on really warm weather and hard driving.
Diff and Engine exactly as suggested before.
In multigrade oils, two indexes in a multigrade oil (i.e. 20W 50) do not give standardised cold and hot viscosity: hot viscosity is lower than cold, no matter how high the second number is.
The indexes give you cold (W for winter) viscosity and an indicator of the stability (behaviour) of the viscosity of that oil when hot (100C).
In case you fancy it’s all here: Multi Grade Car Engine Oils Explained
PS: WHATEVER you do, put something in the gearbox that is yellow-metal safe (use the search function). Unfortunately I messed up in one of my classics, and used GL4 non-metal safe… lucky me I had to drop the gearbox for other reasons and noticed the chemical attack on the brass needle carriers before it was too late. Many low noise gearbox oils are NOT compatible with the gearboxes they should quieten.
Best,
Ll.
gearbox oil–it is so simple–just use what Jaguar specified…and specified again–in a Service Bulletin explicity stating so…and that other oils had been used…and should not be used: 30 wt engine oil.
Then it is just a matter of which–I have found that Millersoil single grade 30 Vintage non detergent is the best in my gearbox.
Nick