Newbie with a V12, basic 30k maintenance?

Martini,
With the trunk key turned to the left and removed, the trunk is always locked. If you turn the trunk key to the center and remove it, the trunk is always unlocked. If you turn the trunk key to the right and remove it, then the trunk will lock or unlock depending on whether the doors are locked or unlocked. We usually have it in the right position and just lock the doors and trunk automatically when out and about. This and hundreds of other operating information is found in the Drivers Handbook.

No, there really isn’t “one page” that covers everything. That is why I recommended that you get the Drivers Handbook, ROM, Electrical Guide, Parts Catalogue, and Kirby’s book. All of them together will give you the info you are looking for.

As mentioned by others like Doug Dwyer, without detailed records from the Prior Owner you have to assume that nothing was done, and everything needs to be done. In my opinion getting the proper documents in hand will start you down the right path. In my opinion, these cars can not be repaired and serviced properly throught emails alone.

Paul

Martini,
This is a perfect opportunity for your to learn to use the Jag-Lovers archives. There must be dozens of posts about various problems with the convertible rear windows and what others have done in the past, including posts from me about installing switches to bypass the automatic control of the rear windows and raise them individually with two new electric switches. Many post include detailed disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly instructions.

Paul

Ok, that sounds great. I will check it out tonight!!

Ok, that sounds great. I will check it out tonight!!

Thankyou for your response. Wouldnt bash any, but prefer to choose a better product, not by trial n error.

Paul,

Approximatley how much of a 50/50 mix does a antifreeze flush take?

Which book would have most of this info.? I spent hours reading Kirbys book,

helpful, but need other info. with it too make it useful. I know the other books

have it, but having had time to get other books yet. I don’t think my car has ANY modifications

or upgrades, and OMG I cant believe from Kirbys book how much changes these cars need!!

I am NOT a mechanic or handy man. Wish I was a mechanic, but I don’t get engineer stuff.

Thanks for all your help.

Marty

ps. what does HE and pre HE stand for??

H.E. Stands for “High Efficiency” and refers to a change in combustion chamber configuration that was introduced in 1981. All Jaguar V12’s had it until they ceased production in the mid-1990’s, even though the letters “H.E.” ceased to appear on the outside of the car somewhere along the line.

The H.E. head features a recessed exhaust valve to form a swirl chamber, resulting in improved combustion at low throttle – which is where the V12 operates 99% of the time in street applications. The pre-H.E. configuration is actually better at WOT, which is why it’s the preferred configuration for competition.

In the H.E. the combustion chamber is a recessed pocket in the head, and the pistons have flat tops. In the pre-H.E. the combustion chamber is a recessed pocket in the top of the piston, and the head is flat.

In the mid-1980’s Jaguar didn’t produce a convertible, but they outsourced the fabbing of convertibles to a company called Hess & Eisenhart, commonly referred to as H&E. Confusing much? I insist on referring to the H.E. engine by the term that appeared on the vehicle badge, complete with periods: “H.E.”, in an endeavor to minimize confusion.

Is there a check spot for the rad. / antifreeze, so you know enough

is in it?

Thank you for clearing that up.

Again if you have no information on the servicing of the car your best bet is to change it out, I assume the car has green coolant? This has a usable life span of <>2 years, change it out with the same colour, never mix colours without making very sure that you have cleared out all the old fluid, from the rad and heater cores.

Thankyou, I plan to change coolant. Don’t know color yet, have to find recover tank first. Will try and drain all coolant, cause planning on putting in standard coolant, unless that’s a bad idea. I know of damage of orange life long coolant.

Also, there are two heater cores? I read about 1 heater valve to drain some out of to get rid of coolant.

Anyone on here have a business to charge for all upgrades, coolant, ignition, ect?? Im not mechanic swavy, and besides changing fluids, maybe brakes, its out of my league. Will try, but not usually good outcome. lol

There is actually a “header tank” on the left inner fenderwell with a radiator cap on it, and there is a plastic “atmospheric catchment tank” hidden inside a compartment behind the LF wheel. Neither is a good place to check coolant color or level. There is a black hose from just under the radiator cap on the header tank that goes to the atmospheric catchment tank. Hidden in the bodywork there is a reducer in this line, and it gets plugged up with rust with amazing regularity. Several people have suggested replacing this line with clear vinyl. That would make it easy to check both color and level.

Thanks, Do I remove a inner wheel well, or part of the body inside interior, to find at. catchment tank??

i have a chrome leaper also…btw I installed my leaper with NO modifications to the hood…most people expect to see a leaper…besides it was a dealer option anyway………I don’t see why there should be any criticism on leapers…(after all the other changes made to make the owners happy)

Directly behind the LF tire, inside the wheel well, is a panel that can be removed with a couple of screws.

Thankyou ,found them.

For the record, my oil drain plug is 22mm. Super tight!!!
So, from what I have read, I can assume its not the factory one.
Had to buy special wrench for it. Found it suppose to be 30 mm or 25mm.

Correction, a 22mm is factory for 90 xjs v12.