Hi all,
The car turns over but won’t start, with ignition ON, I check for voltage at the distributor get nothing. (The car was running fine when I parked it a few weeks back.)
At the switch I have power at Brown, and with the key turned I have power at white. The dash board lights for ignition and brake warning also come on.
Again, the starter engages so it confirms that white is powered. Yet no power at the + terminal on the distributor.
Now I’m almost finished with swapping the rocker switches for toggles, but I don’t think that should have disturbed any part of the ignition circuit that I haven’t verified. Also I have removed the speedometer and tachometer from the dash, but I can’t see that having a possible impact
I know you’ve got a 1968 model, but the wiring diagram I have for a Series II shows a separate box (upper right in the below scan) detailing the ignition system that shows the white wire going into and then out of the tach on it’s way to the distributor. Maybe that’s applicable for your model as well with the exception of the ballast resistor. Other than that the diagrams appear similar.
Thanks John! Clearly the wire goes through the tach on your diagram. I have no ballest resister on my car. But as soon as I reinstalled the tach, it started immediately
That’s the challenge of a S1.5. You never really know what you have. But I love the car
My memory is the white wire forming the inductive loop on the back of the tach is what melted when my ignition switch fried. Has been awhile so my memory may be fading but looks like diagram shows white wire at the tach and coil. Once I replaced the wire I had to do some fiddling to get the tach working again.
Oops. I stand corrected! On my diagram if you trace BACK from the coil to the ignition switch you can see the wire going through the tach. If you go from the switch to the coil, like I did, it doesn’t seem to show that.
One of the problems with these diagrams is they don’t differentiate wires that intersect vs wires that cross over. When I was in the Army we were taught to draw an upside down U in a wire at a point where one wire crossed another, but did not connect.
The white wire on a '68 is unfused, but gets it’s power though the top part of fuse holder 7 which in turn is connected to the top of fuse 6. It’s switched power so if every thing off fuse 7 is operating properly, for example the choke warning light, the problem is either the white wire has become disconnected at the fuse or is open somewhere in it’s journey to the dist. There is an inductive coil on the back of the tach that consists of a 2 or 3 loop coil in the wire, but the wire is unbroken here as it passes through. Hard to see how it could break. If the choke lite is not working you have to work back maybe as far as the ign switch and see why no power at the fuse.
But I love the car