There’s a story from back in the day about Jaguar authorizing replacing all the Hella relays in the car with Bosch.
Ok! So Im finally off work and getting to look at the xjs again! I thought about it and just put the coverless relay back into the fuel pump relay spot. I hooked up the battery and actuated the relay. Vrrrrrrppppppp! I craked open my fuel line at the engine and its full of fuel! So now to try to find out why it doesn’t actuate with the key!
So looking into my schematics I only show white/brown and pink/brown wires, one to the ecm and one to the ems main relay. Im trying to figure out what the brown and yellow wires are. They look factory, but nothing on any of my wiring diagrams for the 93my. Argh!
Tryed running the pump and starting, no go. Drrrrr! Just checked and apparently, no, I’m not getting spark still, which is odd because when i had shot starter fluid in the tb it picked up speed like it was trying to start. I guess I never tested after putting in the new coil. The coil tests good, as does the cps, and since I am getting power to the coil, Im only able to guess the ecm? I tried arc-ing the lead from the coil to the engine, then to the frame itself and nothing grrrrrrrrr!
Jason,
Have you verified that you are getting fuel flow to the fuel rails?
One time when I had no spark problems on my 94 V12, it turned out that the recently installed cap & rotor had internal arcing. I know your car is a 93, but since you are still having problems, you should investigate it. What I was told then was Beck/Arnly caps and rotors were garbage.
When I opened up the dizzy the rotor had a black canyon from the center out.
Did you install a new gasket for the cap and check the vacuum line for obstructions?
Let me know if you need a gasket.
When I crack open the fuel line at the end of the fuel rail, fuel comes out, so i am fairly certain that I am. I did pull the cap, but I didn’t see a gasket. I checked my wires and with the ignition on, I am getting almost 12v at both terminals, and the same at the end of the lead to the cap, but when I turn the engine over and hold it close to ground, there is no spark. So part of me is thinking that when trying to start, it loses power to the coil. I JUST WANT IT TO START! LOL! I’m sure I’ll figure it out, but would love to get it going before snow!
Jason,
Is that your engine?
What made me think you had a v12?
I need to keep this stuff in my mind better organized.
Please put together a signature so I don’t mix things up.
I wouldn’t use the fact of having fuel in the line to verify flow.
All that tells me is the check valve is ok.
Run the engine with a catch can or a hose out to small jug.
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Yes thats my engine. Not sure how to do a signature on here, I dont see anywhere to do it on my profile. Ok I will go and unhook the line and see how it flows with the end in a jug. I do have the AJ6 manual downloaded and am trying to work through their flow charts as best as possible too. I really think Im close, but in the back of my head I keep wondering if the alarm is hampering my tests. I have a couple things to check with the ignition, but I will check the fuel also
Jason,
At the top of each post is your avatar, screen name & real name.
You should be able to click on that link when logged in.
There is a link there called’edit profile’.
Can you take a look at your security ECU?
I still have mine from my donor 94, which might be compatible.
Let me know what the part number is (mine is DPP 1050/XX).
Mine is a known good, and I have a key for it, if that’s needed.
What is a CPS, (O! now I know)?. I had to go back to your old post.
Common failure there is if there is gunk between the head & ****
Leave it alone unless there is a reliable failure test.
Realignment can be tricky, feeler gauge between head & lobes.
****I don’t know what the round thing with the lobes is called.
Huh looking at my profile I still dont see where to add a signature. I looked at my security system and dont see a part number. There is a handwritten tag on it that says “jaguarcars s.c.s DAC 7688” and a white paper sticker that says Jaguar Security System with the Growler on it. I did a little more investigating and found that I am getting power from the coil to the cap, but no power to the plug wires, so I’m ordering a new cap and rotor. I also had someone turn the ignition on and checked the power to the coil, which read just under 12 volts, then had them turn it over and it spun, but voltage dropped to just over 7 volts. That was after having the battery on the charger for about 8 hours, so I think my battery is bad too. Drrrrrrr
I just looked, I didn’t find it either. There was a place for my NAME, though, so I just typed in a really long name! You can see the results above – or, apparently, at the top of every message I’ve ever typed in here.
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Just did the same! Good idea
I looked for a TRADITIONAL signature line too.
Does not exist, but you can add a virtual signature line behind your name.
Do it from your name icon at top RHS of the FORUMS page.
Select preferences and add it to your name.
And another thing:
It would be nice to search all the topics you started by your name.
And/or all the topics you contributed to.
So far have not found the way to do this, if it exists.
Of course this forum run by volunteer labour, it takes time and effort to do things.
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Jason,
That does it. Now we know how we can better help you.
My security ECM has a different DAC #, so it might not help.
While you are trying to sort this out are you keeping it on a charger?
These cars have a hard time keeping the battery from going belly up.
Even if you are not trying to troubleshoot an issue, they go flat.
Parasitic draw is very common.
Unfortunately I have to keep it outside at the moment, so keeping on my charger isn’t necessarily an option. I have been putting on the charger when I try to look into the problems. Unfortunately even after charging for hours, the battery depletes fairly quickly, and as I said, the voltage drop while trying to start seems quite dramatically. I do believe I will buy a new battery tomorrow. Any suggestions on the makes that do best with these? I haven’t checked, but the battery was only to be about a year old
A year old battery should not need changing.
What it needs is running.
There are lots of good brands out there.
I’ve heard mixed reviews about Optima.
Not worth the big price tag for them.
I always have two spare batteries on my Battery Tender, in my garage.
Also, I have two boosters live all the time.
That means I never have a dead battery.
The day I stop having redundant batteries is when I’ll need them.
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The previous owner said he bought the battery, but I think its been run down and charged so many times without actually being in a running vehicle that Im wondering if it basically got killed. I will take it and have it tested of course, but thats my thought. I have a few things Im hoping to get to check out this week, and am hopeful that I will see something I might have missed