No start after sitting 2 weeks - electrical issue? - 69 coupe

After a couple weeks sitting, I tried to start my 69 coupe. It turned over for maybe 8-10 seconds but it didn’t fire so I turned the ignition off, then tried to restart. Now nothing. No click, no murmur, just nothing. I thought maybe the starter was stuck, so I rolled the car a few feet in fourth gear and then I got a click but that was not repeatable ie when I did it again, nothing.

The battery is showing 12.6v and I have 12.6v at the long cable connection at the starter. I couldn’t check the W/R wire from the ignition, because I was on my own, and my arms aren’t that long, but I should have 12.6v at the solenoid with the ignition in the start position, right? If I have that, then can I conclude that the starter is dead? If I don’t have 12v there, then it points to the ignition. Kinda ticks me off, it’s a gear reduction starter that has maybe 4,000 miles on it, though it is six years old.

Anything else I should check?

John North

Is the click you’re hearing the starter relay on the firewall or the actual solenoid itself?
I would use a jumper wire at the starter to make a connection to the solenoid. This will troubleshoot whether or not it’s the starter itself or something getting the power to the solonoid.

Jus for grins clean your battery terminals and the cable ends that attach to the battery. Probably OK, but you’ll eliminate a potential problem area.

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It is really really difficult to get in there with a jumper. On the OEM motor the terminal is on the front which is not easy to get to but it is accessible, but on this starter it’s on the back side against the engine and completely out of sight. Maybe I can pull the ignition wire off and grope around to put a jumper on it, but damn it’s like you need rubber arms.

John

I wouldn’t rely on a voltage measurement as proof positive that your battery is good.

After all, 8 AAA batteries will produce 12V but won’t start your engine. The simple test might be a jump from another car (that’s what Toyotas are for).

Another non-invasive diagnostic would be to turn on the headlamps and see if they dim when you try to start. If they do not dim then the wiring from the ignition switch or the relay are suspect.

The suggestion to listen for the click of the relay is a good one. I think yours (a 69) may be under the far right end of the dash rather than the firewall.

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No starter relay on a '69. I really think the next step is to try to jump it.

I want to emphasize this. After starting up my 67 OTS from winter mothballing, no issues. I get to the hardware store and come back out to the car and get a single “click” when trying to start it. I’m thinking, battery connection. I had a screwdriver, so I loosened the ground helmet connector, wiggled it around, and retightened. “Click” and then nothing. Did this a couple of times and to the positive helmet, too. I thought, bad battery. So a guy from the hardware store has jumpers and we get the car going to high idle with choke. He removes the cables, and the car is fine until the idle drops, and then dead. Rinse, repeat, same problem. I’m confounded and get AAA to haul me home.

In my garage, I test the battery. It’s fine, so it obviously has to be a cable connection, but they are both fine. Finally, I pulled the negative cable and wiggled the helmet connector and it pulled off in my hand! On inspection, it is a soldered connection that came loose. This was a true WTF? moment. I crimped the connection, and still no luck, so I checked both ends of both plus and minus cables. All four of the soldered connections had come loose over winter storage!

Crimping all four ends fixed the mystery. Quite obviously the car worked fine in the parking lot when the alternator took over from the battery at high idle, but the engine died when the battery couldn’t supply spark at low RPM.

This is one of those completely stupid moments where old cars with old components just tell you it’s time to give some attention. And all it took was some vicegrips.

Incorrect. 1969 Series 2s have a starter relay - at least mine does, and every other one I’ve looked at. It’s tucked away under the dash on the RH side.


In 1970 they moved it to the bulkhead in the engine bay.

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Oh great, one more thing to check! In my defense, it’s buried above the A/C evaporator.

Both 69s I’ve owned had one there as well. And it certainly could have been mounted in an easier to access location.

I tried putting 12v at the solenoid wire by the relay (yep its there). Nothing. But I also noticed that with that wire hot I only had about 2v on the W/R wire. Something wrong so I hooked the battery to the Subaru and jumped it and it started. So much for 12.6 volts at the battery. Wish I had tried that at the beginning.

So it’s off to the battery store. You guys are great. Thanks for the help

John