Non start spark present

You, Sir Lawrence, nailed it! :ok_hand:

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…and now for my personal challenge :roll_eyes:…chilly this morning too!

Couldn’t agree more
Thanks for everything guys.

Getting there too but probably next year. It’s already chilly outside here.

Hi guys bad news.

The day after the eureka moment. It was raining and again no start,

This time no spark.
Cps works because the rev counter is moving up.

Have to check for voltage on the amplifier and measure the resistance of the coil but that one is only 20 000 km old

Rotor distributor spark plugs and leads are all new.

If you have other ideas to check, all suggestions are welcome
Many thanks

Frederic, here is a link to a thread about a baffling no-start that Jag.Man experienced with his '94 VDP.

1994 Jaguar VDP No Spark - #185 by Jag.Man?

It is an interesting read when you have plenty of time (and a cold pint or two at hand) - it is 193 posts long! Spoiler alert: the faulty component was the ignition on relay. On the '94 models that relay is on the firewall in the engine bay. I believe on your '92 model it is on a ‘component panel’ under the right-side dashboard. The relay should be serviced by white/blue and brown wires.

That was a really enlightening experience. It gave me a chance to learn more about my Jag than I thought possible, and it is still running like a clock. Thanks to the Stone brothers and all the great guys on the Jag Forum.

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Hi Frederic, what is your situation? Still no start?

Have a look at the back of your fuse boxes; make sure none of the plugs have come loose.

Sorry I let you guys down for a while.
Some problem with our daily a (citroen c1) the bearing in the clutch assembly broke down luckily Just before our trip to turkey.
3500km with a city bug. It survived miraculously well all the bad roads in Bosnia and in Albania even dirt tracks for hours.

Back on topic:
Yes I got it fixed
Again something stupid.
While trying to figure out what the problem was I swapped out the ignition amplifier with another used one and the day after it fired.
That was the first eureka moment
Day after that no start in rainy conditions.
Then started swapping all other ignition related parts but always a no start

Turned out the ignition amplifier I put in was faulty it just worked that one day in the ideal conditions (probably the reason why i got that extra engine which the car)
So there I added, unknowingly, a problem on the already existing problem.

Finally the original problem was the lead from the ignition coil to the distributor cap was worn down because of frequent misfires. Sparks jump for the center pin to the side pin on the coil.

Maybe a question related to that. I have to turn the distributor cap a lot anti-clockwise to make it run smoothly, I always need to grind out the little thing that fits in the slot on the engine. If I don’t do that the engine idles but badly misfires once applying throttle. Is there a fix for that?

Sounds like the way your firing order has been setup is haywire?

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Firing order is correct checked it several times since a smart person asked me to check it.
Rotation of the distributor is just beyond the play you have with the retaining clips that hold the distributor in place. So I would say 5-10°. If it is in the middle, where it should be, idle is fine very smooth but when you apply throttle it is like spark advances beyond what the rotor can transfer to the distributor.

Hello Frederic - since you state that the firing order, of the spark plug wires, has been checked and found to be correct, and you state that rotation of the distributor improves your engine firing timing, try doing this “old school” test - (all done with engine off) - take hold of any two adjacent spark plug wires, one in each hand, and remove them from the distributor cap - consider the one wire that is in the left hand as the 11 o’clock position, and the one wire that is in the right hand as the 12 o’clock position - now, take the wire in the right hand and place it in the 11 o’clock position hole in the cap - put the wire, in your left hand, in to your right hand - use your left hand to remove the wire in the 10 o’clock position - place the wire that is in your right hand in to the 10 o’clock position hole in the cap - put the wire, in your left hand, in to your right hand - use your left hand to remove the wire in the 9 o’clock position - place the wire that is in your right hand in to the 9 o’clock position - put the wire, in your left hand, in to your right hand - use your left hand to remove the wire that is in the 8 o’clock position - put the wire, that is in your right hand, in to the 8 o’clock position - now, since we are going around the circle, we will change operation a little - while still holding the wire, in your left hand, that was removed from the 8 o’clock position, use your right hand to remove the wire from the 7 o’clock position - place the wire in your left hand in to the 7 o’clock hole of the cap - place the wire in your right hand in to your left hand - use your right hand to remove the wire in the 6 o’clock position - place the wire in your left hand in to the 6 o’clock hole in the cap - place the wire in your right hand in to your left hand - follow this sequence all the way around until you have exchanged all the wires - now go ahead and restart the engine and check to see if it is running okay and that you do not need to move the distributor - Tex.

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