Oil and coolant for etype jag series III

I have an etype series III that I’m just starting to get interested in having not used much in past 10 years. I’ve just checked the dip stick and it’s on E! Not good! Also checked coolant and put finger in to see if anything in there but couldn’t feel anything. Anyone have recommendation for oil type snd coolant type? I was just going to use water but think there are better fluids out there

Whatever is on sale, periodically serviced, and yer golden!

Don’t worry wart the oil level: so long as it’s no lower than the cross-hatching, yer fine.

Thanks. It is below the cross haching so I’ve ordered 4 litres of 20-50 Castro’s GTX. Think I’ll need more than that though as I think the engine takes 10 litres? I’ll put 4 litres in
And see what that does!

Any ideas on coolant? That’s lie too!

Try draining some out, presuming there is some still in there, that will give you a starting point as to which colour you need. If there is nothing to drain then I would flush out with straight water to make sure theres no pockets of coolant sitting in places.
Once you are happy that the system is clear then fill up with what ever you feel comfortable with that’s available in your neck of the woods.
Others can chip in with any specific method of filling the V12 to ensure that there are no air pockets trapped in the system.

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Your coolant needs to be a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and purified water. Don’t use tap water; spend the 30 cents/gallon for the filtered stuff.

Whether to use green coolant or orange is a popular discussion, but your car was built before orange existed. Unless someone has gone to the effort of giving it a comprehensive flush and refill with orange, you’ll want green. That’s the stuff that needs to be changed every 24 months, whether you drive the car or not. Any popular antifreeze will do, might as well choose one that says “compatible with all cooling systems.”


You might want to go to town and also change the brake fluid soon as it tends to collect water that will boil and rust; and put in new engine oil; the cheapest 20w50 is the best and as with everything, frequent changes are better than expensive fluids. Can’t do nothing wrong with better quality, but they suffer what they get as long as it’s fresh and at the right levels.

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I recommend that you not add all 4 liters of oil at the same time. It may be too much. Try adding 2 liters, run the engine for a while to get the oil warmed up and circulated around the engine, let it sit overnight, then check the level again. As long as the oil level is in the hash mark area of the dip stick you are ok. If after adding the 2 liters you are not within the hash mark area, then try another liter until you are. If you add all four liters you might have added too much and draining oil out is definitely more difficult than adding oil.


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For the record, I disagree with that. IMHO, good fluids are better than lousy fluid regardless of change interval.

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To add: any decent-quality oil in these engines is just fine.

Ergo… buy any good brand, on sale.

I changed the oil in Tweety once a year, with filter (~3000 miles).

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How long has the oil been siting there ?
If more than a year it might be a better idea to change it all, and the filter ofcourse…
It will be completely oxidized and full of moisture.
And as David said, your brake fluid also.


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I have a 71 2+2 when I got it in 1988 I went to Mobile 1 synthetic 20/50, not cheap but the best for your engine. Also if you plan on keeping and driving the car I put a 5-speed in both my 71 and 68 E-Types the single best thing you can do for the car.

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Hi, just found your post. In reply 20/50 GTX oil is most suitable. Do not use a consistency below 20/50 grade. The engine will take about 10 litres on refill including new filter. The oil level on dipstick should show on the hatch lines, do not go above hatch marks. If the level is below the hatch mark, there is insufficient oil. Hope above helps.
Dave Morrin
etype S3 1972