Oil delivery to camshaft

Tony - Did you connect the digital gauge to a gallery plug hole or, to the oil pressure gauge fitting on the housing? Thanks

From what I have read , oil don’t get to the cams until the engine is running at speed , sounds like your pump is ok , if I was you , I would take the cam covers off , pour about a pint of oil over each cam , put the cam covers back on , and start the engine , and go from there !
I cant see the point , or need in priming the oil pump , as I don’t think it needs it , like I said before , my engine has sat for 6 months and up to a year with out starting , oil pressure has never been a problem , with in that time all the oil would have drained from the pump !
The oil pump is so simple and well made , I have 3 , with over 80k miles on them , the only wear is slight , where the rota sits on the body , I would still use them rather then buy a new one , most new parts are made on the cheap !

sender hole, mine is permanent replacement gauge in vehicle fits directly 2"

in your case, i would put temporarily in in gallery…(I have an “idiot light” in gallery too…they xtinguish at ~5psi)

they can be had off Ebay for $20 up for a matched set, you will probably need a brass adaptor,
I will post what size i used

they have other uses if not permanently fitted, such as check OP gauge or accurately set trans pressure

they are instant (unlike a needle) and accurately read pressure under 10psi, also unlike a needle, and hopefully more reliable (and certainly cheaper), than Jag sender unit

If you do not like it, reversion to original takes a few minutes

altho its likely you would be ok, i like you was hesitant to start the engine until i VERIFIED oil flow

as a no OP to crank bearings scenario would be 30secs and then bad noises

Yes you can. But a very short attempt to start the engine will tell you if you’ve got a really serious oil supply problem. Please don’t rev the engine if no oil pressure is indicated!At that point,if no joy I’m afraid it’s time to get the sump off!

Good luck.

Bruce, the bypass relief valve is not adjustable. It is either assembled right or it is assembled wrong or there could be wrong parts or something that doesn’t belong got stuck in it. The spring will normally be compressed a bit even when the valve is closed, but there should be space between the coils so that the spring can compress a bit more when it opens.

for the SENDER hole, I used the following adaptor;

1/8" NPT female to 1/4" BSPT male adaptor, cost $2.50

(altho I think the sender hole may be actually BSPP), still ok to use BSPT male

I believe most modern senders are 1/8" NPT, usually states specs,sender & gauge are sold as a matched kit

I just test-cranked my freshly rebuilt engine w/o plugs…after the engine had been sitting for a week or two, I got pressure after 18 seconds of cranking, building to 35 psi at about 25 seconds in. After another 15 seconds, I got oil flow out of the chain sprockets…so…pressurized oil made it’s way thru the cams after about 40 seconds total cranking from a “drained down” engine…YMMV. The easiest way to verify oil thru the cams is to simply remove the breather from front of head…this assumes your engine does have the original style of cam sprockets and serrated plate(s), and not the later type which did away with this sprocket-to-chain oiling scheme.

"[quote=“Lee140FHC1, post:47, topic:353715, full:true”] The easiest way to verify oil thru the cams is to simply remove the breather from front of head…this assumes your engine does have the original style of cam sprockets and serrated plate(s), and not the later type which did away with this sprocket-to-chain oiling scheme.
[/quote]

Do the photos below indicate what type I have?
Thanks

I have oil at the housing pressure gauge fitting, the cam oil lines and the
filter housing when solenoid button is depressed. Can I assume the oil filter element is full of oil and the oil pump is sufficiently primed? The gauge still does not register because the line I rigged with a small clamp is not tight enough. I will probably need to start the engine to check sufficient cam oil delivery as that seems weak. I also have to pull the hose from the housing to the sump to see if the pressure relief valve is sending oil to the sump. Thanks for the help, advice and details on fittings and gauges.

I’ll start a new topic about my recent compression test but, will oil pressure/oil delivery affect compression test results? I used two different testers on two different days and the results were 80-90 psi in each cylinder.

primed the engine through the oil pressure sender, oil flowed out the holes in the cams
with just a garden sprayer pump, also don’t take the oil fill cap off with the engine running, you will be sprayed with oil Roger

There is no way to tell if you have the oil-supplying cam plates from the photos but if you can look up into the cam sprocket area, you may be able to see whether there are holes drilled through the sprockets…these holes would be evident between the two rows of sprocket teeth and are/would be the channels which the oil would flow through to get to the chain rollers…there are a total of 5 of these equally-spaced holes drilled from the ID thru to the OD of the sprocket.

Don’t see any connection between oil pressure and compression pressure.

I just put engine oil in a 3.4 XJ6 engine I got hold of , sump was empty when I got the engine , I took the breather off the front of the head , and tipped about 1 pint of oil in , to cover the chains , the other 13 1/4 pints went in the filler cap , would have been nice if Jaguar made the cam covers with a filler cap in both , as that would have covered both cams with oil .
With spark plugs out , I turned the engine over on the starter , took about 20 seconds for the manual gauge to start moving , its a Gauge I picked up , off a Ford Cortina , then it moved quickly to around 50 , stopped , cranking , checked the oil level , bit down as the filter was new and empty , topped up the oil to the right level , then hit the start button again, gauge moved straight away , back to 50 !
Engine is on a test bed I have knocked up , few more jobs , then I will try and start it .